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Need Alignment Help After Major Install

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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 08:16 PM
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Default Need Alignment Help After Major Install

Installed UMI single adjustable phb and lca's, bmr lca relocatoin brackets, Koni SA's, and 35 mm and 22 mm swaybars. What should I look for in an alignment? Thanks.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 09:12 PM
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PM Trackbird, he'll get you where you need to be. He's awesome.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Actually, I'd recommend first looking up his website. Alright, I admit, I'm lazy right now but I've had a really long, hard day at Beaver Run and don't really feel like digging around for the site, but if you just look at once of his posts, his site is in his sig. He has a section that covers alignments.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 02:49 AM
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http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=1231&

Pimp-how was the day at the track
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 07:26 AM
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Horrible man. Blew the motor on practice session #1. Right now I'm chillin here chowing on a bowl of cereal, running on basically zero sleep, cuz I OVERSLEPT and am now late to the Formula SAE meeting at the Honda Transportation Research Center. Arg what a weekend.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 07:27 AM
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Oh, I almost forgot the important part man... I had a blast.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by stang killer
I drug him off to crew for the AV8SS team for which I usually handle crew chief duties. On the first practice session, the water neck cracked (a traingle shaped piece broke out of it), this allowed the top radiator hose to blow off. By the time it came into the pits, it wasn't dripping any water (it was all gone) and the temp gauge was reading "steam" and showing about 180 or so. Therefore, we sent the driver back out (unaware of the water problem) and ran 3 more laps on a 500+ RWHP motor. So, it was hot, damn hot. We fixed the water neck and it wouldn't hold pressure with a radiator pressure tester and was leaking water down the back of the block (from the intake...this is a small block ford). I tightened the intake bolts and it would hold pressure but wouldn't crank. We tried to push start it....no luck. We pulled the plugs and I turned it by hand and 4 cylinders were full of water from a pair of blown head gaskets (and 3/4 of the way through that rotation, it started to bind up and get hard to turn). So, back to the engine builder it goes. This one is not going to be cheap.

Anyway, back to the question at hand.

What are you wanting to do with the car? If you are looking for increased handling, I can help with that one (if the link Stang Killer provided doesn't cover it).

-.7 to -1.0 camber (many cars won't get to -1.0 at stock ride height)
4.5 castor
0 toe

That works great on the street. I run more camber than that and get 30K plus out of front tires (and I'm running some toe out which is harder on tires than those specs). So, you won't destroy tires, but you will notice a great increase in handling response and grip.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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Thanks guys! The car is pretty much a pure street car, so that works great! The car is lowered around a 0.5 inches in the rear and 0.75 in the front.
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