MarleyZ28

are subframe connectors difficult to install? and any recomendations to which brands are good? im looking into them - thanks

Joker

There are two kinds; bolt in and weld on. I would recommend the weld in type over the bolt on. BMR makes a really nice one, there are several others out there to consider as well.

Have a chassis shop or someone with a welder install these unless you are competent yourself. Not terribly difficult to install, should costs about 40-50 bucks to have installed.

These will help in reducing chassis/body flex and eliminate squeaks and rattles from occurring. I strongly recommend these and tubular lower control arms at the same time as one of the first mods to have done. Just my opinion and what I did within two months of picking my car up. Made a big difference in eliminating wheelhop and with 32000 miles, I have no squeaks or rattles at all.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

No not really, I'd get the bolt in kind, then get them welded (you can take a bit more time to find a competent welder, unless you are one yourself)
I'm partial to UMI, no loss of ground clearance, good quality, competetive price, good customer service
I got the 3 point bolt in type (currently waiting on a buddy to get his TIG welder to get them welded), and am very happy with them, tightened up the car considerably

GreekGator

i have BMR, and when i picked my car up from the shop that installed them, the car felt 100 times tighter than before. Def should be an initial mod for LS1's.

KrazyDan

i have spohn tubular sfc. cant see them unless you get under the car.

SporkLover

iTrader: (2)

I've got UMI boxed..... great mod.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've had 2-point weld-ons and 3-point bolt-ons. I noticed a greater reduction in body flex from the 3-point bolt-ons. The "bolt-on" system that SLP uses works very well, I've never had them come loose, and the bolts/threads/plates are able to withstand a great deal of torque/tightness (I used a 3' poll over a breaker bar to tighten them to the frame).

As was said above, get the bolt-ons and if that's still not good enough for you then have 'em welded as well.

NLinnear

iTrader: (8)

I have had bolts loosen up on a set of SLP sfc's. I recommend Spohn SFCs. Also, when installing them, make sure there is no load on the body of the car ie. the wheels hanging down on a lift.

ßlackßeard

Actually, the car should be loaded on the tires. Install University does a good write up on the installation of a set of BMR weld ins. Mine went on without too many problems, a little grinding here and there to make things tuck up nice, the only thing I can recommend to you or who ever is welding them in for you (if you go the weld in route) is to grind an area of the powder coating on the SFC and ground there. For MIG welders this is key. You can grind anywhere on the chasis you want (and we tried a few spots) we found grounding off the SFC itself worked the best.

Worth every penny GET THIS MOD. With SFC's that aren't triangulated to the centre of the car you always have the option of BMR trailing arms. You can weld those in and they tie in your SFC's real nice and have a drive shaft loop integrated. It all tucks up real nice.

BMR gets my vote, but remember, its just a piece of boxed steel or round tube (depending on the type), not too complicated, all of the more reputable vendors will have simlar build quality, as long as you stick with one of the vendors that no body complains about you should be set.