subframe connectors
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: The Republic of Texas
There are two kinds; bolt in and weld on. I would recommend the weld in type over the bolt on. BMR makes a really nice one, there are several others out there to consider as well.
Have a chassis shop or someone with a welder install these unless you are competent yourself. Not terribly difficult to install, should costs about 40-50 bucks to have installed.
These will help in reducing chassis/body flex and eliminate squeaks and rattles from occurring. I strongly recommend these and tubular lower control arms at the same time as one of the first mods to have done. Just my opinion and what I did within two months of picking my car up. Made a big difference in eliminating wheelhop and with 32000 miles, I have no squeaks or rattles at all.
Have a chassis shop or someone with a welder install these unless you are competent yourself. Not terribly difficult to install, should costs about 40-50 bucks to have installed.
These will help in reducing chassis/body flex and eliminate squeaks and rattles from occurring. I strongly recommend these and tubular lower control arms at the same time as one of the first mods to have done. Just my opinion and what I did within two months of picking my car up. Made a big difference in eliminating wheelhop and with 32000 miles, I have no squeaks or rattles at all.
Originally Posted by MarleyZ28
are subframe connectors difficult to install?
Originally Posted by MarleyZ28
and any recomendations to which brands are good? im looking into them - thanks
I got the 3 point bolt in type (currently waiting on a buddy to get his TIG welder to get them welded), and am very happy with them, tightened up the car considerably
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,629
Likes: 2,550
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I've had 2-point weld-ons and 3-point bolt-ons. I noticed a greater reduction in body flex from the 3-point bolt-ons. The "bolt-on" system that SLP uses works very well, I've never had them come loose, and the bolts/threads/plates are able to withstand a great deal of torque/tightness (I used a 3' poll over a breaker bar to tighten them to the frame).
As was said above, get the bolt-ons and if that's still not good enough for you then have 'em welded as well.
As was said above, get the bolt-ons and if that's still not good enough for you then have 'em welded as well.
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I have had bolts loosen up on a set of SLP sfc's. I recommend Spohn SFCs. Also, when installing them, make sure there is no load on the body of the car ie. the wheels hanging down on a lift.
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Originally Posted by NLinnear
I have had bolts loosen up on a set of SLP sfc's. I recommend Spohn SFCs. Also, when installing them, make sure there is no load on the body of the car ie. the wheels hanging down on a lift.
Worth every penny GET THIS MOD. With SFC's that aren't triangulated to the centre of the car you always have the option of BMR trailing arms. You can weld those in and they tie in your SFC's real nice and have a drive shaft loop integrated. It all tucks up real nice.
BMR gets my vote, but remember, its just a piece of boxed steel or round tube (depending on the type), not too complicated, all of the more reputable vendors will have simlar build quality, as long as you stick with one of the vendors that no body complains about you should be set.