Opinions on this suspension set-up?
#1
Opinions on this suspension set-up?
Hi all, I am wanting a very good handling car for use on public track days and SCCA solo events, as well as just fun driving around back roads. I don't plan to drag race, so I'm not worried about that, but I would like a suspension that plants the rear, so when I come out of corners, I have traction. I have a 99 Trans Am and I'm trying to figure out what will make it handle like the Vette without making it feel like a boxcar (cept for the feeling like its on rails part).
So, after some research, this is what I've come up with:
H&R Stage 2 Coil Springs (600#/200#)
Koni Single Adjustable Shocks
Strano Custom Hollow 35mm/22mm Performance Sway Bar Kit
UMI Single Adjustable Lower Control Arms
UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
UMI Single Adjustable Panhard Bar
UMI 3-Point Subframe Connectors
UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm
BFGoodrich g-Force K/D 275/40-17 F and 315/35-17 R Tires on lightweight Fikse Rims
What do you guys think? Anything else, something you would change/delete?
Thanks!
So, after some research, this is what I've come up with:
H&R Stage 2 Coil Springs (600#/200#)
Koni Single Adjustable Shocks
Strano Custom Hollow 35mm/22mm Performance Sway Bar Kit
UMI Single Adjustable Lower Control Arms
UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
UMI Single Adjustable Panhard Bar
UMI 3-Point Subframe Connectors
UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm
BFGoodrich g-Force K/D 275/40-17 F and 315/35-17 R Tires on lightweight Fikse Rims
What do you guys think? Anything else, something you would change/delete?
Thanks!
#2
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I think we need to talk... Lots of things on the list aren't very high on the priority list IMHO, and will also remove you from the classes the car would be most competitive in. Some things are flat out not appropriate for a car on a track or autocross. You wheel/tire combo can be hugely improved upon, etc.
There are some things that are huge but missing such as, but certainly not limited to an upgraded Limited Slip unit, good seats (car is only as fast as the driver can make it and flopping around it NO help). better brakes, and so forth.
I think you should take the time to do you research fully. Pick up the phone and call me. And by the end of conversation, whether or not you agree with me or not, you'll have a much better idea about where to go and in what order.
There are some things that are huge but missing such as, but certainly not limited to an upgraded Limited Slip unit, good seats (car is only as fast as the driver can make it and flopping around it NO help). better brakes, and so forth.
I think you should take the time to do you research fully. Pick up the phone and call me. And by the end of conversation, whether or not you agree with me or not, you'll have a much better idea about where to go and in what order.
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#4
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Originally Posted by Adrian87GN
Yes if you are serious about this call Sam. You're about to spend alot of $$, don't spend it in the wrong places.
Some of your choices sound good to me, and some not so good. An additional important item to consider is a good worm gear posi. Sam can set you up with the right kind.
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Since you mention the posi, what type of diff. is best for road racing? I was under the assumption that the Torsen was superior to a standard clutch-type posi.
#6
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Helical diffs are generally regarded are "better" for uses involving turns. A Torsen is a helical differential, but not the only one. They just happen to make the most kick-*** one for the 7.5" rear.
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#7
I should mention I have a 12-bolt with an Eaton posi and 3.73s on the way with a LS2 402 making about 530rwhp. Also, I have a Baer Extreme 13.5" Alcon 6-piston front big brake kit waiting to go on with the wheels.
I plan to run 315s all around on road courses, and 275/315 on the street.
With that said, I could go QA1-ended LCA/APHB, but I want this car to be somewhat manageable on the street.
I plan to run 315s all around on road courses, and 275/315 on the street.
With that said, I could go QA1-ended LCA/APHB, but I want this car to be somewhat manageable on the street.
Last edited by JakeFusion; 11-14-2005 at 03:12 PM.
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#8
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I run QA1-ended LCA/APHB on the street and haven't had any issues with them. Can't even tell they are there in normal driving.
I'm pretty sure you can get a Torsen type posi diff for a twelve bolt. I suggest you quickly call up and see if you can cancel out of that Eaton.
I'm pretty sure you can get a Torsen type posi diff for a twelve bolt. I suggest you quickly call up and see if you can cancel out of that Eaton.
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Originally Posted by Cal
I'm pretty sure you can get a Torsen type posi diff for a twelve bolt. I suggest you quickly call up and see if you can cancel out of that Eaton.
#10
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Last time I checked, you could not get a T2R for a 12 bolt, but that may have changed. I believe you can get a Detroit True Trac, but as Sam will tell you, these have only slightly more bias than our stock/OEM 10 bolt Torsens.
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Jake
How low do u want to run u car. U need more spring rate to keep your car off the ground. I have ground control springs they let u adjust the ride heigth and pick the spring rate. Stock rate is about 300 lb/in and for stock ride height. That is OK. If u want to lower your car u need more rate. I lower mine to 26.5 that is about 3/4in. I have 400 lb/in spring. They work well for me. Sunny day car that will go to the track now and then. if u want more rate go with 450 but I think 600 might be more that u want. If you lower your car to far it will not handle, so be careful. You can get the ground control set up all the way around for 360.00$ good luck and I think the stuff on your list is good except for the springs.
How low do u want to run u car. U need more spring rate to keep your car off the ground. I have ground control springs they let u adjust the ride heigth and pick the spring rate. Stock rate is about 300 lb/in and for stock ride height. That is OK. If u want to lower your car u need more rate. I lower mine to 26.5 that is about 3/4in. I have 400 lb/in spring. They work well for me. Sunny day car that will go to the track now and then. if u want more rate go with 450 but I think 600 might be more that u want. If you lower your car to far it will not handle, so be careful. You can get the ground control set up all the way around for 360.00$ good luck and I think the stuff on your list is good except for the springs.
#12
H&R have 600 lbs linear front springs and they lower the car about an 1-1/4 to 1-1/2. Ground Control is something I've thought about, or even something like DRM or LG coilovers (but waaaay to pricey for aluminum bilstein/hyperco coilovers)
The only concern I have with a POSI is heat. The detroit locker is stronger than the Eaton POSI, because it has larger and heavier clutch packs.
The only concern I have with a POSI is heat. The detroit locker is stronger than the Eaton POSI, because it has larger and heavier clutch packs.
#13
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
Jake
How low do u want to run u car. U need more spring rate to keep your car off the ground. I have ground control springs they let u adjust the ride heigth and pick the spring rate. Stock rate is about 300 lb/in and for stock ride height. That is OK. If u want to lower your car u need more rate. I lower mine to 26.5 that is about 3/4in. I have 400 lb/in spring. They work well for me. Sunny day car that will go to the track now and then. if u want more rate go with 450 but I think 600 might be more that u want. If you lower your car to far it will not handle, so be careful. You can get the ground control set up all the way around for 360.00$ good luck and I think the stuff on your list is good except for the springs.
How low do u want to run u car. U need more spring rate to keep your car off the ground. I have ground control springs they let u adjust the ride heigth and pick the spring rate. Stock rate is about 300 lb/in and for stock ride height. That is OK. If u want to lower your car u need more rate. I lower mine to 26.5 that is about 3/4in. I have 400 lb/in spring. They work well for me. Sunny day car that will go to the track now and then. if u want more rate go with 450 but I think 600 might be more that u want. If you lower your car to far it will not handle, so be careful. You can get the ground control set up all the way around for 360.00$ good luck and I think the stuff on your list is good except for the springs.
You can get GC coil-over stuff from some places cheaper than I have them. And you can spend a LOT MORE to get coil-overs with non adjustable shocks. But what you don't get is the technical advice on spring rates, bar sizes, tire sizes and so on. If money is the absolute bottom line, then take Yellow T/A's adivce. If you are like me a willing to pay a few bucks more (and often I'm not more expensive on most things), then I suggest you pick up the phone and call the one person on this board who has direct experience with your needs and the results to back it up.
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
The only concern I have with a POSI is heat. The detroit locker is stronger than the Eaton POSI, because it has larger and heavier clutch packs.
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Lockers have clutch packs?? I thought it was either locked or unlocked, no slipping? Isn't one of the reasons DLs are stronger because they don't have clutch packs?
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Sam what he said is
"Hi all, I am wanting a very good handling car for use on public track days and SCCA solo events, as well as just fun driving around back roads."
NOT
"He asked specifically about racing the car in autox and some track event "
I am not tring to sell anything. Just give my view. Not everyone on here wants just your advice.
I wound never say "I suggest you pick up the phone and call the one person on this board who has direct experience with your needs and the results to back it up."
Any one who reads this board know u have the largest one. Other people have advice to. be nice
"Hi all, I am wanting a very good handling car for use on public track days and SCCA solo events, as well as just fun driving around back roads."
NOT
"He asked specifically about racing the car in autox and some track event "
I am not tring to sell anything. Just give my view. Not everyone on here wants just your advice.
I wound never say "I suggest you pick up the phone and call the one person on this board who has direct experience with your needs and the results to back it up."
Any one who reads this board know u have the largest one. Other people have advice to. be nice
#17
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
Sam what he said is
"Hi all, I am wanting a very good handling car for use on public track days and SCCA solo events, as well as just fun driving around back roads."
NOT
"He asked specifically about racing the car in autox and some track event "
I am not tring to sell anything. Just give my view. Not everyone on here wants just your advice.
I wound never say "I suggest you pick up the phone and call the one person on this board who has direct experience with your needs and the results to back it up."
Any one who reads this board know u have the largest one. Other people have advice to. be nice
"Hi all, I am wanting a very good handling car for use on public track days and SCCA solo events, as well as just fun driving around back roads."
NOT
"He asked specifically about racing the car in autox and some track event "
I am not tring to sell anything. Just give my view. Not everyone on here wants just your advice.
I wound never say "I suggest you pick up the phone and call the one person on this board who has direct experience with your needs and the results to back it up."
Any one who reads this board know u have the largest one. Other people have advice to. be nice
#18
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And if he can have a car that's more than competitive in Solo, and a blast to drive on the street as well, why would he want to cut himself off at the knees classing wise for the autox? I take that into consideration, a lot.
And the fact is a fast autox car is going to be a fast street car. The dynamics of performance driving are the dynamics of performance driving. What changes between street, autox and the track is simply the ability to get more from the car safely.
Other opinions count, certainly. I just think you gave some poor advice in post #11 and was proving my point. Jake I'm sure is a big-boy and if he doesn't want to call, and at least hear what I have to say, that's his decision.
And the fact is a fast autox car is going to be a fast street car. The dynamics of performance driving are the dynamics of performance driving. What changes between street, autox and the track is simply the ability to get more from the car safely.
Other opinions count, certainly. I just think you gave some poor advice in post #11 and was proving my point. Jake I'm sure is a big-boy and if he doesn't want to call, and at least hear what I have to say, that's his decision.
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Originally Posted by Cal
That is correct. If it has clutch packs it's a limited slip diff, not a locker. And I would not expect anyone to want a locker for autoX duty, unless you like driving a pushy pig.