Malko

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to weigh a few options here -

I've been seriously considering laying off the drag racing parts (due to the fact that anyone with more money than me can smoke my *** - which gets really boring after while) so I'm looking to preserve what I've done to my car so far and take things more into the field of road race/auto-x.

My question to the forum is would it be worth modding an A4 f-body to become a cornering car or to save up for a vette?

The best handling f-bod i've driven to this day has been a ls1 firehawk and I was impressed. Corvettes, though, handle fairly how I like right off the bat. Factoring in cost of mods (6-speed which i may be able to trade for, bars, shocks, rear end???)+ what I already have into my TA vs. buying a stock used C5, what would i be better off with?

In addition to what i have in my sig is a new BMR Adj tq arm, nittos, BMR DS safety loop

Thanks!

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

If your Auto-Xing and Road Racing you dont have to worry so much. I know so very high horsepower F-bodies made to handle that still have the stock rear and no problems. Were talking around 400-500rwhp.

Malko

iTrader: (2)

that's good to hear.... -2500 dollars from mod list right there

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

You are looking at this from the wrong angle ...

Find a class, read the rules and see where your car and budget would best fit.

then begin the build process ...

Cal

iTrader: (1)

For what you want, you've got the right idea to get out of drag race and into AX or RR. It's amazing how how a guy with a lot of driving skill and only a few dollars can kick butt against a rich guy with an expensive car. AX is cheaper than RR, but RR gives you more seat time, so make your decision based on that.

As far as the y body vs. f body debate, either can be built to be very fast, but the y body will always do it with a more comfortable ride and a nicer interior. So this means the fbody will be cheaper to make into a dedicated race car and just as fast, but the y body will be more streetable at the same performance level yet cost more.

If you have a high tolerance level and/or a short commute, you can use a fbody as a very effective race car that will also haul you to work inbetween races. But it will not be comfortable with no A/C, a bone-jarring suspension, and a gutted interior with no carpet or plastic. That's what I do, but I also have a nice truck to drive for the times when I need a more practical/comfortable vehicle.

I save a lot of money by racing in a AX class that allows cheap non-DOT "take-off" race tires. With cheap tires, I can go to every event and get a lot of seat time, which is the main way you get fast in AX. The down side is I had to gut my car and remove any unecessary weight to make the car competive. So like Mitch says, pick a racing class before you start building the car. I had already done too many irreversable mods to race in the stock class when I started. You may be able to race in a stock or street tire class if you don't want to make your car into an "animal." As for me, I like to feel like I'm in a race car when I'm racing, and I'm willing to put up with the draw backs the rest of the time.

Malko

iTrader: (2)

That is very insightful...I had not even thought of what it would take to be a real race car! But as far as my situation goes, I need the streetability and appearance since this is my DD (and I live in a place where AC is essential - florida/georgia) but as far as a tough ride, I'm pretty tolerant - afterall, I would like my car to feel more like a proper handling car rather than a beefed up cloudmobile. At this point, if i were to continue with the f-body, I will only do suspension parts and possibly look around to see if I can swap in a T56 at some point, maybe even throw out the backseats since i don't really use them, but I couldn't get rid of the other stuff. With the finincial situation I'm in at the moment, a Corvette is looking more out of the question after shopping around the other day - might be able to swing it in a couple years .

It's good to hear that this f-bod can contend with a vette. This is making the option of just modding my f-body much more viable.

By the way, what is the difference between autox and RR?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

AutoX is like a mini road race; small track and much lower speeds. In autoX you may hit 75 mph once in a while, but usually you peak around 40 mph. Courses are set up in large parking lots and on airport tarmac with orange rubber cones. There is only one car on the course at a time, so if you screw up you only take out cones. It is very safe for both the car and the driver, as well as inexpensive. Most of it is organized with local clubs that are all part of the national SCCA (Sports Car Club of Amaerica) and they have a class for every car and every level of modifcation. Fbodies are competive in the FS (F Stock) class, ESP (E Street Prepared) and CP (C Prepared.) The SM (Street Modified) class is a little harder for a fbody to be competive in, but at a local level you could be very competive in any of these classes. In order of modification level it would be: 1. FS, 2. ESP, 3. SM, 4. CP with FS being a mostly stock car. Race tires are permitted in any of these classes, but everything else depends on the rules for a particular class. The sticky thing on fbodies is sub frame connectors; they bump you right into SM and not really needed on a mildly moded fbody, so I would avoid those if you want to keep the car somewhat stock. The most important mod for AX or RR is Koni single adjustable shocks, closely followed by race rubber. The Koni's won't affect streetability since they are adjustable allowing you to back them off, yet they are much more effective than the KYB's you have.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

After re-reading your original post, I see you have an A4 car.

Based upon that, I would suggest you focus on autocross. There are a ton of small venues scattered all over the country ... many have nothing to do with the SCCA. For example, the BMW clubs put on great shows.

Because the courses are tighter and shorter, there is typically no shifting. and by design, you run a single lap and get back in line. This will keep your auto alive.

A road course typically requires up and down shifting. The way a auto up and down shifts, it can really upset the chassis. Plus the trans fluid will get extremely hot ... even with a cooler.

JMHO

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the tranny . . . your auto trans will be fine for autoX. The courses are supposed to be designed so you can run the whole thing in second gear. On rare occations you may need 1st or 3rd. I practically never use 3rd because I can go 75 mph in second gear.

It's probably best to AX before you RR anyway. It's a cheap, safe way to learn road race skills.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Likewise for Porsche clubs. Once you get good at autoX, you can have fun hitting the BMW and Porsche clubs and kicking their butts with a cheap-azz Pontiac! Believe me, this will really burn them up! Since so much depends on driver skill in this type of racing, you will find you can beat a lot of much more expensive cars once you know how to drive. But until then, get used to having your butt wipped by imports, especially ralley cars.