SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Are you guys satisfied with this setup ?
What shocks are you guys running ?
How does the ride feel like ???

And can you guys post pictures ? Either of the car so I can see the stance, Or the actual shock setup.

I was thinking of getting DMS springs and Koni SA shocks but the Ground Control seem like a good setup because of its adjustability.

NOIR

iTrader: (3)

^^ im with him. to the T. I was going to go with dms springs and then koni sa's until a suggestion from foxxton swayed my decision. anyone have any photos? that would be great.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

A suggestion from who, foxtron? What does he know? Just joking, he is right actually.

I'm using the Ground Control kit with Koni SA shocks on the front and rear. I use the adjustablity quite a bit since I both race the car and drive on the street a lot. Plus I'm always experimenting with different sizes and types of tires and wheels, so the adjustability is a big plus. You can make the ride as soft or as brutal as you like.

The only thing I don't like is the way the rear spring jackers just sort of "sit" on the axle. I'll probably tack weld or bolt mine on. They couldn't really fall out unless you got a lot of air somewhere, though.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Ouch! After your previous praise Cal, it's now the turn for your patented trademark ?

Geez, me gotz to getz a jacques strap. My FRRAX frat intiation haze is approaching quickly.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

You can have any drop u want. They are adjustable. You will have to pick the spring rates, with ground control u pick the rate that is what is good about them. 3/4 drop is what most use for handling. Springs keep the car off the road. If u want big drop u need more rate. Stock rate is 280sh lb/inch. U can use that with no drop. More drop more rate. I have 3/4 inch drop with 400 lb/in. If u want 1 1/2 500 lb/in????. Higher spring rates need better shocks. Koni is the only one u can just buy. Sam sells revalves that may work u have to talk to him. Do not get higher rate springs without better shocks.

Ground control setup can be had for 360.00 plus shipping. There are alot of pic of the install, just look. Search is your friend.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

This is nothing compared to how brutal they are over on Corner Carvers! I saw a thread with a dozen posts making fun of this guy's spelling, with all kinds of proposed "alternate interpretations" of the poster's question. They even threw in the "Penguin joke" for good measure! Then finally it got back on topic.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

One bright, sunny day a Penguin decided to go for a joyride in his convertable Mustang. As is inevitalble with any Ford, it broke down and coasted to a stop along the road side. As luck would have it, there was an auto repair shop right there. They said they would go right to work on it, but it might take a while. So the Penguin went next door to a Dairy Queen for some lunch. After he finished his Sea Burger, he decided to top off the meal with an ice cream cone. Since Penguins have flippers not hands, he was messy with the ice cream and got it all over his face and fur as he waddled back to the repair shop. At the repair shop, the mechanic said "Looks like you blew a seal." The Penguin said, "I really didn't, I just made a mess with the ice cream."

dailydriver

Quick question; if you use Koni DA fronts with a GC conversion does it give you less or the same wheel travel as using the SAs, given the same wheel well height?? It seems I have very little wheel travel on the DA/GC front setup. I think the only thing keeping it off of the bumpstops is the 600# springs. In other words, does the GC collar mount on the shock body in a different spot with DAs vs. SAs?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about Koni DA's, but with SA's there is a two position snap ring. With GC's it should be a non-issue though, since you can just crank the adjusters up to get more wheel travel.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I can't remember the thread, but I do remember that there is only one mounting position for the perch as opposed to SA's which I believe have two. Basically when I had my Koni DA 8242's, there was only one position that a lower spring perch will fit.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Here's some fairly recent pics of my car, I have the Koni DA's all 4 corners with 500# fronts & 150# rears.






I ******* love the stance and the ride is fine, however I should've gotten some stiffer springs, but that's okay, this was a great way to go initially. I would like to get probably 600# fronts and I don't know, maybe 200# rears to make the car more stiff and responsive...

Cal

iTrader: (1)

If you go too stiff on the rear, you will start to have problems putting down power on corner exits. I wouldn't go over 200 lb/in unless you have a lowered panhard bar and a lower roll center. I run 175 lb/in with some big, sticky slicks on all four and I wouldn't want any stiffer than that back there.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

A little bigger rear bar would also help the roll stiffness a lot. If I remember correctly, Carlos has the 35 front, but a stock rear. Also, I'd be interested on the shock settings as well. FWIW. It's been a while since we did this on his car, so I'm foggy on the details.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The upper perch height on a SA is the same as the only one on a DA. Yes, the car has little travel to the bumpstop, which is why I don't recommend slamming the car. However, the Koni uses a very long and soft bumpstop vs. the very short and hard one the stock shocks and Bilstein's, KYB's, etc (they all reuse OEM).

I don't recommend dropping the car more than 1.5" at MOST, and prefer 1-1.25" if handling and ride are more important than the bling factor.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Im looking to lower my car with the coilovers about 1.25''. No more. And I will also raise my car once in a while for scrapping purposes

dailydriver

Sam;
Since it's hard to tell how much my car is lowered, (and compared to what since stock heights vary so widely?), just how much shock travel is needed to not bottom and kill Koni DA fronts?? In other words, how much of the shock's piston rod/shaft should be showing above (or below) the bumpstop in order to avoid damage??

Slammed-am

I'm with Cal on this.

As far as stance goes, you can pretty much mock up anything you want. I have the 500/150 combo and it's nice and responsive, but I should've gone with stiffer springs.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I should remind you guys that 500/150 is what I won my last National Championship with. I only moved to 600 because of a tire change, and the softer sidewalls wanted more spring rate.

Why do you want to go stiffer? I'm not saying it's wrong, but you should have reasons why. Are you looking for the car to be flatter? If so, what bars are you running? Are you looking for more response? If so, the bars, the shock settings, the alignment, the tire pressures should all be considered. See what I mean?

As for the front height, it's okay if you have very little to none of piston showing at ride height. That gives you about 3" of wheel travel. I wouldn't have it so low the Koni stop is starting to squish with the car just sitting.

Also, there is another option. There are some different progressive bumpstops you can use. I've run them. They are shorter and harder so you stay off them longer, but when you hit them they aren't just rock solid right away. They are urethane, and are around $35 a pair. I've backed to backed them with the Koni stops and frankly noticed no real difference, but if you want to have more travel before you contact the stop you could try these.

dailydriver

So with the 600# springs, as long as I miss/stay out of the craters in our roads, this is all I need to avoid murdering my DAs? With a 1LE front bar should I dial the bump up to the point of washing out the front (and then back off one click, maybe?)? I have the 1LE bar in the back also with SAs. I'm waiting 'till after winter to get your bars.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

You are absolutely right my friend, stock rear sway, and I LOVE how I can literally hit the pedal to the metal coming out of a turn and I have no issues whatsoever regarding traction, it sticks to the asphalt BIG TIME

What I am dissatisfied is how the front and rear end is softer than I anticipated, I mean the 500# fronts are TONS better than factory, but I notice that it "feels" not as stiff as I want it to be, if that makes sense...

RE: shock setup, I have the fronts set @4 sweeps, rears set @2 full turns, think setting the shocks stiffer would help?