Considering Bilstein HD Shocks + DMS springs
#1
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Hey guys I want to lower my 2000 Trans Am and I am thinking about this combo.
Does anyone have this same combination? How is it? Any pics?
Wondering if the Bilstein HD shocks will be fine with the DMS springs which lower about 1.3"
Im thinking about getting the F-body Bilstein shock package from ThunderRacing.com
I was considering the Eibach pro kit for the extra .2 inches in lowering but I do not think it will be noticable.
Any input?
Does anyone have this same combination? How is it? Any pics?
Wondering if the Bilstein HD shocks will be fine with the DMS springs which lower about 1.3"
Im thinking about getting the F-body Bilstein shock package from ThunderRacing.com
I was considering the Eibach pro kit for the extra .2 inches in lowering but I do not think it will be noticable.
Any input?
#2
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Gets talked about time and time again. I'm going to say no. And it's not because I don't sell HD's. I sell them, lots of them for $329 a set.
They simply are not meant for lowered cars (of any spring). The valving is meant for the softer, taller stock springs. Many use them, unknowingly or because they don't care about getting a proper setup. But if Joe jumped off a bridge I wouldn't follow.![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
However, if you determined to do something like use HD's, you'd be better off (less wrong) with Pro-kits as they are softer and more toward the spring rates the HD's are valved for. Still stiffer than the shocks are meant to handle, but "less wrong".
They simply are not meant for lowered cars (of any spring). The valving is meant for the softer, taller stock springs. Many use them, unknowingly or because they don't care about getting a proper setup. But if Joe jumped off a bridge I wouldn't follow.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
However, if you determined to do something like use HD's, you'd be better off (less wrong) with Pro-kits as they are softer and more toward the spring rates the HD's are valved for. Still stiffer than the shocks are meant to handle, but "less wrong".
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I have the HD's with DMS springs and if I had it to do all over again I would go with a different shock. The ride is pretty rough, much rougher than stock. I thought the HD's would be ok, plus with the price I was able to talk my Dad into getting them for me as a gift. I thought I did my homework and like I said thought the HD's would be ok, but did not study hard enough.
I will be changing them as soon as I can afford to.
I will be changing them as soon as I can afford to.
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The only thing for the same price that is workable are KYB AGX's. Which I'd not a fan of at all. They can control the springs, but ride quite harshly to do so and are not of the highest quality. I've had a lot of folks call and buy shocks to replace AGX's, some from breakage but mostly from just not liking the soft and uncontrolled, or controlled but harsh ride those shocks tend to give. I don't find a happy middle range....
Bare minimum I recommend are what folks call "Revalves". Which are HD's that are taken apart and have new, firmer valving put in to damp the higher spring rates. But they are $500 a set. However buying shocks should be a one time deal, so it's money that is well invested if you buy proper, correctly valved units.
Bare minimum I recommend are what folks call "Revalves". Which are HD's that are taken apart and have new, firmer valving put in to damp the higher spring rates. But they are $500 a set. However buying shocks should be a one time deal, so it's money that is well invested if you buy proper, correctly valved units.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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why dont you get the revalaved Bilsteins, i cant remember what the company who chaged the valve in them, but i have herd of people running those and they are supposed to be better then normal bilsteins.
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That'd be me..
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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#10
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Nevermind that last question. Answered it myself. If I was to jump for the $800 Koni shocks that Sam sells would those work well with lowered springs? Much better than Revalved Bilsteins?
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From what i know, this is the shock order as far as performance and quality etc.
1) Koni
2) Revalved Bilsteins
3) Bilstein HD's
Now, keep in mind a few things here. You SHOULDNT run #3 with any lowering spring as they are really only meant for stock springs. Also, Sam is the ONLY person that does the revalves. He tweaks them to match what springs you are running. So, in essence, they are like an adjustable shock with no adjusting if you catch my drift. Also, there are 2 levels of Konis, SA and DA. Im pretty sure it stands for single/double adjustable, but i will let sam or others who are sure chime in.
1) Koni
2) Revalved Bilsteins
3) Bilstein HD's
Now, keep in mind a few things here. You SHOULDNT run #3 with any lowering spring as they are really only meant for stock springs. Also, Sam is the ONLY person that does the revalves. He tweaks them to match what springs you are running. So, in essence, they are like an adjustable shock with no adjusting if you catch my drift. Also, there are 2 levels of Konis, SA and DA. Im pretty sure it stands for single/double adjustable, but i will let sam or others who are sure chime in.
#13
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Originally Posted by GreekGator
From what i know, this is the shock order as far as performance and quality etc.
1) Koni
2) Revalved Bilsteins
3) Bilstein HD's
Now, keep in mind a few things here. You SHOULDNT run #3 with any lowering spring as they are really only meant for stock springs. Also, Sam is the ONLY person that does the revalves. He tweaks them to match what springs you are running. So, in essence, they are like an adjustable shock with no adjusting if you catch my drift. Also, there are 2 levels of Konis, SA and DA. Im pretty sure it stands for single/double adjustable, but i will let sam or others who are sure chime in.
1) Koni
2) Revalved Bilsteins
3) Bilstein HD's
Now, keep in mind a few things here. You SHOULDNT run #3 with any lowering spring as they are really only meant for stock springs. Also, Sam is the ONLY person that does the revalves. He tweaks them to match what springs you are running. So, in essence, they are like an adjustable shock with no adjusting if you catch my drift. Also, there are 2 levels of Konis, SA and DA. Im pretty sure it stands for single/double adjustable, but i will let sam or others who are sure chime in.
#14
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Originally Posted by zachwhite0
Nevermind that last question. Answered it myself. If I was to jump for the $800 Koni shocks that Sam sells would those work well with lowered springs? Much better than Revalved Bilsteins?
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Mayspin, i have a question for you. i plan on keeping stock springs. Would a revalve be a NOTICEABLE difference over the HD? Also, you brought up how the fronts need more than the rears. Does this also work with stock springs? Like, could i do revalves in the front and HD's in the rear, or should i just do one or the other for all 4? TIA
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Originally Posted by GreekGator
Mayspin, i have a question for you. i plan on keeping stock springs. Would a revalve be a NOTICEABLE difference over the HD? Also, you brought up how the fronts need more than the rears. Does this also work with stock springs? Like, could i do revalves in the front and HD's in the rear, or should i just do one or the other for all 4? TIA
When I say the front requires more attention, we have live rears which is basically just along for the ride. It's the front that controls the car. That's why we add adjustable shocks, big bars and get good custom alignments. We make changes to the rear for balance.
What should you do?... Honestly I have no idea. My goals may be different than yours.... I use Koni SA's and OEM springs because I wanted to keep the comfort of the stock rates but have ultimate spring control, as well as the ability of lowering the car a good 3/4". I also added Sam's 35/22 swaybar combo because I wanted more roll control but was not willing to use a higher spring rate (thus less comfort) for that control. Notice I'm saying "I", what's good for me may not be for you. Suspension's are a very subjective, there are however things that work and things that don't. If you're considering revalves, pick up the phone, call Sam and he'll figure out what "you" will need.
Hope that helps... Scott.
Last edited by May Spin; 02-24-2006 at 02:25 AM.
#18
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May Spin's answers are prett much spot on. Not much more I can add, at least here. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Revalves are basically done to fill the void Bilstein left when they did not do their Sport valving for this car. I just go a little further and give specific valvings, not just one firmer valving. Koni's just offer you a lot more flexibility. Both with damping/response/ride, and the ability to use lowering springs, change lowering springs and know you have a shock that can handle anything you might put on, or lower the car by way of the lower perch....
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Revalves are basically done to fill the void Bilstein left when they did not do their Sport valving for this car. I just go a little further and give specific valvings, not just one firmer valving. Koni's just offer you a lot more flexibility. Both with damping/response/ride, and the ability to use lowering springs, change lowering springs and know you have a shock that can handle anything you might put on, or lower the car by way of the lower perch....
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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May Spin, you use the full soft setting on the rear what do you use on the front? I have Koni's that I am going to use with my stock springs set to the lower perch for the street only.
#20
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More complicated than I had first thought. I thought springs were the only way to lower a car. All I wanna do is get rid of the wheel well gap(Drop about 1.5 inches) and not spend too much money. I do not drag race or auto X. This will be purely for road use. I would be happy with something that is a good bit above stock but I do not think I need anything extreme. I plan on going with 18 inch wheels next year but depending on how much I drop it I could go with 17".