bluey2kz28

I need to replace my rear rotors on my 2000 Z28 and I am thinking about going with Sure Stop rotors. The price is great for slotted and cross drilled pieces, but I don’t know anything about these rotors. Does anyone here have anything good or bad to say about them?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

bluey2kz28

Anyone know anything about these rotors, anyone???

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

check here, more then likely if you call they will honor your price.
I have researched sure stops and didnt get much for feedback.

However many people here including myself and on the vette forums have bought and are about to try these. I know one guy that loves them and you cant beat the price!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...olesale+direct

bluey2kz28

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it.

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

You might do a search on rotors. Many of the folks that know don't recommend drilled and slotted rotors. They recommend the ones you find at Autozone. Combine those with good pads and you're good to go. Something to consider. There are a couple of good threads on the subject.

bluey2kz28

Will do CW00BlackTA.

jorgez28

Have you looked at the ones at the WS6 store they have had some good feedback

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

The drilled and slotted are for looks only (they also have a bad tendency to crack at the holes), if you just need to replace the rotors due to warpage or wear, go with the autozone ones, or if you have the money, get a set of brembo blanks

bluey2kz28

I've heard about the cracking with front cross drilled rotors due to the fact that the front brakes do most of the work and generate more heat and stress. So what I did was ordered the cross drilled and slotted Sure Stop rotors for the rear from Speed Inc.

Hopefully I wont get those pesky radial cracks that I have read about so much. If I do then I will replace with slotted. Whcih leads me to another question that I will post as a new thread.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

I have powerstop drilled and slotted, and they are, junk, broke them in perfectly, and used the recommended pads, the stopping is choppy due to the slots, and the holes do nothing for cooling. I warped these in less than 1000 miles and my car is no daily driver. Plus I cannot get them cut, so I guess they are throw aways.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, if you're looking for an OE replacement, best to go with something around the design of a brembo blank. Yes not having those holes/slots/dimples don't "look cool", however not having the holes and slots means better performance and longevity. Want an upgrade with performance with the stock rotor design, look for it in a decent pad compound.

Hate to mention this, however this contentious issue of to drill/slot or not to drill/slot is pretty much an exhausted area, because there are many physical characteristics that have proven well beyond the reasonable doubt that the slick marketing wants the public to believe.

JstALs1

iTrader: (5)

I recently got a pair of the sure stop rotors from them and so far they have been great. They have a coating on them to prevent corrosion. They also look cool to. The price was decent, the only thing they recommend to me was to get some hawk pads but I declined since I still have about 70% left on the stock pads.

rgaynor85

i just ordered those d/s from ws6store 170 bucks they seems good and are said to be nice rotors and work well so we shall see they should be in mial today.

bluey2kz28

Did you say those were drilled and slotted?

I should get my stuff via UPS really soon to.

bluey2kz28

So what you are saying is that slotting and cross drilling are all just gimicks used to justify higher prices for rotors due to the fact that they require more machine time and labor to produce, but don't actually have any kind of performance gains?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely...and I don't say this because everyone else does, I speak of this from experience, and so do other members (trackbird, mitchntx, stang killer, Cal, Sam Strano, VIP1, sgarnett, and those other who I fail to mention that AX and RR). I know that you'll probably never will do something like myself and those other members I mentioned, however I speak right down to the physical component itself. Many will argue "daily driver" or "holes save weight and cool better" but the reality is that if the rotors are vented (which many are) that does a significantly better job of cooling.

Not to drag this on, but you can search for some posts that deal with this matter, and heck, I even explained it scientifically to another member here. Even the manufacturer of my big brake kit offers these rotor face patterns as an option, but they whole heartedly agree that they are just looks and decrease longevity and performance. Basically, the sticky at the top of the forum page doesn't lie. Heck, in another forum where an engineer from Brembo who is responsible for the maufacture of the "Porsche/Brembo" rotors chimed in stating these holes are purely cosmetic.

In any case, I am only offering the details for which you can make a wise decision.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

some higher end rotors actually have the holes cast in them, instead of just plain drilled through (which creates stress points). supposedly these are better at resisting cracks. but what foxxton said is pretty much accepted knowlege

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Well, I guess it is accepted knowledge, however I know from my experience of having "high-end" cross-drilled rotors, they will eventuall develop stress risers, which lead to visible cracks. As seen in the sticky, there were some porsche rotors that developed cracks.

AFA the "casted holes", that's so far been purely a contrived rumour and not a fact. Can't remember who specifically mentioned it, however it was that engineer from Brembo, which was responsible for engineering the rotor for the Porsche OE applications, and he stated that the holes were not casted in, however they were drilled at or very close to the ventilation vanes to reduce the occurence of stress risers, but nevertheless, they still have a propensity to crack, and are completely looks. Not only is rotor life substially decreased, but also pad life as well.

Again, not to say that one is bad for choosing rotors with drills/slots/j-hooks/dimples/etc., but they gaining looks and not performance and/or longevity. Quite the contrary AFA the performance and longevity. If you consult most of the AXer's here (the proven ones) they will speak from well documented experience that cross-drills, slots, dimples, or any of those rotor face patterns have caused more problems in the long run, and no improvement up front. AFA I'm concerned, using rotors with the drills/slots, are out of the question with concerns to RR.

Basically, to gain the best performance from a stock dimension rotor using stock calipers is to upgrade the pads, upgrade the brake lines to stainless steel, and use a brake fluid with higher boiling point and better hygroscopic properties. I will also stress that it's advised to flush the brake fluid on a regular basis in order to maintain good pedal feel and to prevent sponginess.

bluey2kz28

I would like to thank everyone here who has provided all the good information on the subject. I greatly appreciate all your contributions to this thread regarding rotor questions even though the subject has probably been beaten around a few times.

In the future I will be better informed about the parts I am buying and will share this info with other members in my club here in EP. I hope that others have read this thread and will not make similar mistakes.

bluey2kz28

UPS delivered my stuff form Speed Inc. yesterday. Those rotors look pretty beefy so I hope they last and not crack on me.

I also got a set of Earl's ss brake lines which leads me to another question that I will post as another thread.