F-body brake upgrades?
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
F-body brake upgrades?
I'm wondering about upgrading my brakes. I don't race my car, but would like to upgrade it's capabilities. For those of you that RR or autoX your F-bodies, what is the problem with the stock brakes? Is it simply brake fade? Or do things burn up...ie glazed/warped rotors, boiled brake fluid?
So is the real problem just the handling of heat or is there a stopping issue too?
If I did upgrade my brakes, I'd like to do the vette upgrade. This seems like a fairly cheap way to upgrade to decent braking capability. But one thing I cannot find mentioned via the search function is rear brakes.
If I upgrade just the front brakes then it would seem to me that the brake bias will change and that wouldn't be ideal. Can the rear rotors be switched over to vette stuff too? Are the vette rear rotors any bigger than the F-body?
Thanks.
So is the real problem just the handling of heat or is there a stopping issue too?
If I did upgrade my brakes, I'd like to do the vette upgrade. This seems like a fairly cheap way to upgrade to decent braking capability. But one thing I cannot find mentioned via the search function is rear brakes.
If I upgrade just the front brakes then it would seem to me that the brake bias will change and that wouldn't be ideal. Can the rear rotors be switched over to vette stuff too? Are the vette rear rotors any bigger than the F-body?
Thanks.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
Heat.
Stock pads can't take continuous high speed stops because of heat saturation.
There are pads out there that can handle the heat, but are typically pretty rough on the rotors.
In my 96 CMC Firebird, I run the 98+ brake package. By rule, that is what I'm limited to. I use a stock caliper and Carbotech Pads ... XP10s and probabaly going to XP12s next purchase.
I run Wagner rotors.
Stock pads can't take continuous high speed stops because of heat saturation.
There are pads out there that can handle the heat, but are typically pretty rough on the rotors.
In my 96 CMC Firebird, I run the 98+ brake package. By rule, that is what I'm limited to. I use a stock caliper and Carbotech Pads ... XP10s and probabaly going to XP12s next purchase.
I run Wagner rotors.
#3
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mitch, what happens to the pads as a result of that heat saturation? Do they fade and simply don't perform properly or do they glaze over or in some other way become ruined?
If running those 'pads out there that can handle the heat' on the street, are there a lot of downsides besides being rough on the rotors? I ask because I've heard that cryo treating rotors does wonders for their longevity.
Any thoughts on the vette upgrade? What about the rears...is there an upgrade for them or is an upgrade there not useful?
If running those 'pads out there that can handle the heat' on the street, are there a lot of downsides besides being rough on the rotors? I ask because I've heard that cryo treating rotors does wonders for their longevity.
Any thoughts on the vette upgrade? What about the rears...is there an upgrade for them or is an upgrade there not useful?
#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by jyeager
If running those 'pads out there that can handle the heat' on the street, are there a lot of downsides besides being rough on the rotors? I ask because I've heard that cryo treating rotors does wonders for their longevity.
My first hand experience with cryo treated rotors is that it did exactly nothing for them. I still chewed through the rotors in the normal amount of time and I'd save your money and skip the cryo treatment.
#6
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
TB is 100% spot on.
I will also add that brake pads have an effective heat "range". On either side of that range, the pad composition does not create enough friction to work effectively.
It's not unlike a tire. A drag slick needs a lot of heat to be really sticky. Too cold and you will light them up. Too hot and they get greasey and won't stick.
Same with brake pads. A pad that can take a lot of heat, will not stop the car effectively when cold.
I will also add that brake pads have an effective heat "range". On either side of that range, the pad composition does not create enough friction to work effectively.
It's not unlike a tire. A drag slick needs a lot of heat to be really sticky. Too cold and you will light them up. Too hot and they get greasey and won't stick.
Same with brake pads. A pad that can take a lot of heat, will not stop the car effectively when cold.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
You don't need to upgrade the rear brakes.
Stoptech brake article
And, if you insist on upgrading for appearance.
Start by reading this
Those should get you started.
Stoptech brake article
And, if you insist on upgrading for appearance.
Start by reading this
Those should get you started.
#9
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by trackbird
You don't need to upgrade the rear brakes.
Stoptech brake article
And, if you insist on upgrading for appearance.
Start by reading this
Those should get you started.
Stoptech brake article
And, if you insist on upgrading for appearance.
Start by reading this
Those should get you started.