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BMR Torque Arm Relocation Kit?

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Old 03-15-2006, 03:03 PM
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Default BMR Torque Arm Relocation Kit?

Anybody used this? Pro's/Con's? With the adjustment on the relocated mount, wouldn't that do away with an adjustable TA? Thinking about getting this to go with a new TA and my new Prothane motor/trans mounts.
Old 03-16-2006, 10:42 AM
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I have it.

While raising and lowering the front does change pinion angle, I would still opt for an adjustable torque arm. the more you lower the front, the more preload you get. someone else can explain better i'm sure, but the torque arm has a sort of neutral position it hovers in when you take the front mount loose (with suspension loaded) when you mount the front lower than that neutral position, you've got preload, which means, just sitting there, the torque arm is pushing up on the car... so long story short, it helps plant the tires better (quicker?) on launch.

Still, your desired preload and your desired pinion angle may not agree, so its nice to have an adjustable t/a

Yank also makes a t/a relocation crossmember. I feel it is better built, but does not have the adjustment like BMR's.

I suggest using a torque arm that has a stock style "lips" mount as opposed to one that just has a tube and a big hole in the bushing. (Compare UMI's full length t/a or and edelbrock to BMR's to see what i'm talking about) I say this because I have found that the tube style transmits more vibration than the stock style, probably because of the lack of insulation.

Even with the stock style front slider, you will still get more vibration inside the car, but it's not bad.. but thats the only gripe i have with it
Old 04-01-2006, 10:53 AM
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Anyone ever heard of these tearing out of the floorpan? I had someone tell me that they could do that because the floorpan is thin and not meant to take the stress.
Old 04-01-2006, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc '99T/A
Anyone ever heard of these tearing out of the floorpan? I had someone tell me that they could do that because the floorpan is thin and not meant to take the stress.
You can usually run into the low 10's with out this being issue. Its not common to happen but I am sure it can. This set-up here will prevent that

http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2004b.jpg
Old 04-01-2006, 03:09 PM
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That's a hell of a setup; but my car is more of a weekend toy for the street, not a serious racer. Think I'd be ok running one?
Old 04-01-2006, 05:02 PM
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Thank you.

If it is more of a weekend cruiser then any type of torque arm will work fine. If you want when you are ready send me a PM and I will glad to set you up with what would work best.

Hope that helps!
Ryan
Old 04-01-2006, 08:45 PM
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Ryan, PM sent.

Shadow, Yank makes a body mounted bracket also, but I don't think it is adjustable.
Old 04-03-2006, 02:08 PM
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A little vibration won't bother me. I've already got my Prothane motor and trans mounts (my stocks are old and soft) but am waiting to put them in untill I get a few more of my parts that require me under the car, i.e. headers, t/a, etc. Though it's a DD, I do like to run it hard from time to time (more often than not) and don't want to damage my M6 tailhousing. It "may" see some 1/4 time and "will" see the twisties in the future.
Again, thanks for the replys.

OldeSkool, that was good info and review I was looking for. Thanks...

UMI, thanks for your response as well. I've been looking at your 3 point, but not the pan mounted t/a. Something about those t/a's bother me; but will be getting your adj. t/a whether I use a crossmember mount or just leave it on the tailhousing. Will hopefully be ordering your poly/rod lca/phb kit and possibly your adj. t/a at the same time in the near future.
Old 04-03-2006, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadow1999
A little vibration won't bother me. I've already got my Prothane motor and trans mounts (my stocks are old and soft) but am waiting to put them in untill I get a few more of my parts that require me under the car, i.e. headers, t/a, etc. Though it's a DD, I do like to run it hard from time to time (more often than not) and don't want to damage my M6 tailhousing. It "may" see some 1/4 time and "will" see the twisties in the future.
Again, thanks for the replys.

OldeSkool, that was good info and review I was looking for. Thanks...

UMI, thanks for your response as well. I've been looking at your 3 point, but not the pan mounted t/a. Something about those t/a's bother me; but will be getting your adj. t/a whether I use a crossmember mount or just leave it on the tailhousing. Will hopefully be ordering your poly/rod lca/phb kit and possibly your adj. t/a at the same time in the near future.
Great to hear

Don't forget we just came out with the torque arm relocation kit, we should have it on the web site with in a week or so. But there available.

Thanks again!
Ryan
Old 04-03-2006, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Great to hear

Don't forget we just came out with the torque arm relocation kit, we should have it on the web site with in a week or so. But there available.

Thanks again!
Ryan
Thanks for the info Ryan. Can't wait to get a look at it. May be more stuff I'll have to get from you. Is it going to be adj. for load?
Old 04-03-2006, 03:50 PM
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I had a used Yank piece that's the same basic deal, and
it's not "a little" vibration you'll get if you have a stiff
torque arm and a poly bushing. I couldn't stand it.

The adjustable front lets you dial in the instant center
to achieve maximum bite. This also changes the driveline
angle, and you may (or not) need the TA adjustability
out back to true that up.

That being said I expect that LCA relocation is as or
more effective, without the hassles, in obtaining bite
for most folks and only people who actually intend to
tune suspension methodically, will benefit from being
able to adjust the nose mount point.
Old 04-03-2006, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
You can usually run into the low 10's with out this being issue. Its not common to happen but I am sure it can. This set-up here will prevent that

http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2004b.jpg
you guys suck... i wish that kit was out before i welded in my 2" boxed sets from you guys
Old 04-03-2006, 09:31 PM
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Hi there, not to up to speed on all the suspension parts. I did learn the hard way though. My tail shaft broke and it really did some damage to my car and wallet. I thought that the problem was that I had just put on a BMR T/A and thought that all the stress went right to the tail shaft. So I found that BMR makes a relocation kit for the T/A to take the stress off. I have it in my living room but I'm confused on what set of adjustable holes I should be using when I go to put it on. It's still at the stock ride height. Any help would be great. Thanks Guys.
Old 04-04-2006, 12:09 AM
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Call BMR's tech support. They should be able to help you.



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