Problem after alignment.
#1
Problem after alignment.
I installed my eibach prokit, Bilsteins, and American racing TT's recently. I drove it approximately 250 miles and everything looked and drove great. Took it to NTB to get it aligned. After the alignment, the Right front tire is almost 3/8" further in at the top than the drivers side. The drivers side tire is nice an flush, but the passenger side like tucks up in there. Its enough that I noticed when washing the car. I took it back, and they said that "an alignment could not cause that". Is that true? I checked the wheel spacing, its correct. I am really frustrated at this point.
Here are the Specs from the alignment.
___________ Left Front _____ Right Front
Camber____ -0.1* _________ -0.1*
Caster_____ 5.1* __________ 5.1*
Toe _______ -.02" ________ -.01"
Here are the Specs from the alignment.
___________ Left Front _____ Right Front
Camber____ -0.1* _________ -0.1*
Caster_____ 5.1* __________ 5.1*
Toe _______ -.02" ________ -.01"
#4
the body could be damaged and not aligned correctly. I had a TA before that had that problem, had been in a wreck and the front end was lined up right (fenders and stuff were off) One of my wheels was deeper than the other, but it was cause the fender wasn't lined up right.
#5
Those alignment numbers look very good but, even if those are the actual after alignment numbers it doesn't mean that the camber plate hasn't slipped. I would take your after alignment/actual numbers and take the car to another shop. Ask them if they put it on the machine and it is in spec if they will give you a reduced price for the checkout? A car that is out of alignment not only wears tires and gets reduced gas mileage but, it can be dangerous. I would spend the slight amount of money it will cost and get it rechecked.
#6
those alignment specs have got to be incorrect
there is no way they got -.1 degrees negative camber if you are lowered with a prokit on stock control arms. its not possible, there isnt enough adjustment
the closest they might be able to get is -.6 to -.7 degrees
there is no way they got -.1 degrees negative camber if you are lowered with a prokit on stock control arms. its not possible, there isnt enough adjustment
the closest they might be able to get is -.6 to -.7 degrees
#7
Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
those alignment specs have got to be incorrect
there is no way they got -.1 degrees negative camber if you are lowered with a prokit on stock control arms. its not possible, there isnt enough adjustment
the closest they might be able to get is -.6 to -.7 degrees
there is no way they got -.1 degrees negative camber if you are lowered with a prokit on stock control arms. its not possible, there isnt enough adjustment
the closest they might be able to get is -.6 to -.7 degrees
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#8
My hunch is that either the body isn't straight/matched (build tolerances on these cars are legendary for being sloppy) or you might have a bent spindle. I recently had a TA in my garage (to look it over) with the same problem. It turns out that both front spindles were bent, one was really bad and one was minimal. So, one tire set flush and one was back under the fender (as you describe). The spindles on these cars are easy to bend in an impact, I'm going to place my bet on those.
Also, as the spindles bend, they seem to bend in the direction of positive camber (hitting curbs? beats me), so that might explain the -.1 adjustment as well.
Also, the K member could be off center. Rare, but possible.
Also, as the spindles bend, they seem to bend in the direction of positive camber (hitting curbs? beats me), so that might explain the -.1 adjustment as well.
Also, the K member could be off center. Rare, but possible.
#9
Originally Posted by trackbird
My hunch is that either the body isn't straight/matched (build tolerances on these cars are legendary for being sloppy) or you might have a bent spindle. I recently had a TA in my garage (to look it over) with the same problem. It turns out that both front spindles were bent, one was really bad and one was minimal. So, one tire set flush and one was back under the fender (as you describe). The spindles on these cars are easy to bend in an impact, I'm going to place my bet on those.
Also, as the spindles bend, they seem to bend in the direction of positive camber (hitting curbs? beats me), so that might explain the -.1 adjustment as well.
Also, the K member could be off center. Rare, but possible.
Also, as the spindles bend, they seem to bend in the direction of positive camber (hitting curbs? beats me), so that might explain the -.1 adjustment as well.
Also, the K member could be off center. Rare, but possible.
#10
Originally Posted by 11secLS1
Was it easy to see the bend? I am going to pull the wheels off tonight and take a look.
In theory (if the car is straight), the front lower control arms should be in about the same location on each adjuster. If one is full out (away from the oil pan) and one is full in (close to the oil pan), there is a good chance that the side that is full out is bent (and it's full out to get the wheel back to 0 camber). So, you can't see the bent spindle, but you'll see signs of it if you know what you are looking at. Or, get some good digital pictures of the lower control arms where they bolt to the car (so I can see the adjustments) and the way the car sits (the flush wheel, etc) and pm me for an e-mail address. Send them to me and I'll gladly take a look and see if I can tell anything from them. It's not a problem, I'm glad to try to help.
Kevin