SSick

hey... just riped the mounting braket on the BMR torque arm on a 98 ss with boxed/re-lo LCAs and a spooled 4:10. i'll post pic.. any ideas what'll take the beating? ordered a UMI unit cause it has thicker mounting points... but i'm affraid the tubes welded tot he mount will rip apart... thought about roll cage gussets or larger pieces welded to the umi arm. any one have experiance with this? i wasted the stock unit .. bend it then tore it. the BMR is ripped and the bend on the end at the tranny is stressed and shows metal through the red powder coating or paint.. what ever it is. runs 7.5-7.60s in the 1/8 on 18s and playing around to and from work.

SSick

H8 LUZN

I think you need the !Driver mod...

jk

Anyhow, it could have resulted from a loose bolt, impact loading on that part would be extrememly high.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

i know someone who broke the same kinda of torque arm. he went with the trak pack and has been happy ever since. i have the spohn, but like the UMI one also.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I'll bet BMR says that has never happend before. lol

Shamson5.7

iTrader: (5)

Holy **** man...thats insane.
My Spohn definately looks thicker than that. Check one of those out.

sikws6

was loose on the rearend look at the bolt holes....what's the great mystery?

Shamson5.7

iTrader: (5)

Were they red lockite'd?
Why does the BMR TA look so cheesy compaired to the Spohn?

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

I have the UMI chassis mount and well, you could try one like that. If you break one of those..then you must have some serious power. However, there are people running faster and not breaking stuff. I would think that you had a loose bolt and you were shocking the mount when you launched. Or you bushing up front was wallowed out and causeing movent to "shock" it. I dont know how you broke that but didnt break your tailshaft housing.

Ski

sikws6

That is the stock replacement torque arm, the non adjustable. If you want to compare apples to apples you need to compare the Spohn to the BMR adjustable torque arm. Had one on my car before I turned it into a drag car only and went to the BMR "extreme" torque arm, the rearend bracket is much thicker on those compared to the non adjustable. It doesn't matter how thick the mounting bracket is if you leave the bolts loose

KilerTA

iTrader: (70)

All i have to say is thats freeking awsome lol sucks that it broke but awsome lol i just orderd my umi tq arm

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

have a local shop cut and replace the mounting bracket there with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick setup. . .you'll probably spend 30-50 bucks, but it'll hold better and be cheaper than buying a new one. . .

kenkaru

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

They will likely look at the elongated wear marks around the holes, and tell you it was run loose.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

I missed your post, and made the same comment.
I assisted in the design, and testing of the RANDOM arm, and we saw the same problem, when run loose. More metal only prolongs the occurance, if it's loose.

The solid tube/brkt doesn't help with misalignment , either. We use 3/4" heims at the rear, to aleviate that, and to allow adjustments...

SSick

the elongated one was from nursing it home from panama city to atl with it busted. they were put on with blue lock tite and an impact and taken off with a breaker bar and the jack handle... only the top forward piece was holding it on... heh no crazy power.. tr230 cam and normal stuff. 4:10 w/ spool and nittos on the18s is what i think has killed it.. already twisted and tore a tubular LCA and had to go to boxed ones.. this was the next failure after that.

TurboZ28

This just happened to a friend of mine. He's borken several of them. I'm assuming this isn't supposed to happen as often as it has to him. Any ideas on what the real problem is?