SLP shocks/springs
#1
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SLP shocks/springs
Hey,
I am badly in need of new shocks. Like, really badly. And I'd also like to at least partially eliminate the 4x4 look with the stock springs.. but I can't lower the car too much (1" is too much, with my TSP catted ypipe) since I live in NJ. Roads suck here.
I'm looking at this package over here:
http://www.lmperformance.com/4329/17.html
What do you think?
I am badly in need of new shocks. Like, really badly. And I'd also like to at least partially eliminate the 4x4 look with the stock springs.. but I can't lower the car too much (1" is too much, with my TSP catted ypipe) since I live in NJ. Roads suck here.
I'm looking at this package over here:
http://www.lmperformance.com/4329/17.html
What do you think?
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In all honesty (and I hate to sound repetitious), you will eventually hit at around 1" when the springs settle. I've seen it on several other factory equipped SS's and Firehawks with those springs, and these vehicles were largely untouched by modifications (definitely no large speakerboxes in the trunk). The shock valvings aren't especially that great either.
For a little more than 200 than that kit, you could opt for Koni SA's and reuse the stock springs. From my personal experience, the stock springs actually aren't that terrible, just that they have crappy dampers to being with, and their height isn't that great where they're mounted. If you were to opt for Koni SA's, use the lower mounting ring in the front and replace the rear spring isolators with the rubber hose mod for the rear springs, you'll be at about what you're looking for. The rake produced isn't terrible either.
A search will result in several pics from some recent members who opted to stick with stock springs and Koni SA's while perfroming what I suggest above, and they've gotten results that are quite nice. It also doesn't hurt that Koni SA's have adjustible rebound, so if you eventually want a different set of springs, you can adjust the valving to accomidate the newer spring rates (just have to use the higher spring perch setting on the shock body since the lower spring perch mounting ring is designed for stock spring use only).
For a little more than 200 than that kit, you could opt for Koni SA's and reuse the stock springs. From my personal experience, the stock springs actually aren't that terrible, just that they have crappy dampers to being with, and their height isn't that great where they're mounted. If you were to opt for Koni SA's, use the lower mounting ring in the front and replace the rear spring isolators with the rubber hose mod for the rear springs, you'll be at about what you're looking for. The rake produced isn't terrible either.
A search will result in several pics from some recent members who opted to stick with stock springs and Koni SA's while perfroming what I suggest above, and they've gotten results that are quite nice. It also doesn't hurt that Koni SA's have adjustible rebound, so if you eventually want a different set of springs, you can adjust the valving to accomidate the newer spring rates (just have to use the higher spring perch setting on the shock body since the lower spring perch mounting ring is designed for stock spring use only).
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Since the situation of loading the rear with heavy stereo equipment obviously adds rear weight, the springs are critical since a heavier load will be placed on them. The average rear spring rate of 150 lbs. is only okay with the usual unloaded or barely loaded trunk space. The Koni's won't have a problem with satisfying a variety of spring rates, however the real problem is the stock springs and several others with similar spring rates will have a bit of a rough time handling quite a bit of weight added to the back, so you might have to opt for higher rates with the springs.
Not to be a ball br***er, but if it were me, I'd find a way to modify the sub and amps to be "modular" for easy removal.
Oh and BTW, I think you meant "Koni's and stock springs" since Koni doesn't make springs (AFAIK).
Not to be a ball br***er, but if it were me, I'd find a way to modify the sub and amps to be "modular" for easy removal.
Oh and BTW, I think you meant "Koni's and stock springs" since Koni doesn't make springs (AFAIK).
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I've had that exact setup for a few years. To me, the car handles great with the only downside being very harsh in the rear over bumps. The 1" drop was just about perfect in the looks department, but you have to be careful over speed bumps, etc.
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It harsh over rear bumps because they aren't valved for that (many of the bilsteins that are "revalved" are usually only revalved for the front while the rears remain the same as off-the-shelf).
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In all due respect...
You could try to contact some of the prominent venodrs and see what they will advise, but I don't give out spring rates and shocks valvings, even if it's going to be for something such as 100lbs. for the rear.
If it were me, I'd dump it! 100 lbs. in the trunk isn't very good for the handling, even with some very stiff springs.
You could try to contact some of the prominent venodrs and see what they will advise, but I don't give out spring rates and shocks valvings, even if it's going to be for something such as 100lbs. for the rear.
If it were me, I'd dump it! 100 lbs. in the trunk isn't very good for the handling, even with some very stiff springs.
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
It harsh over rear bumps because they aren't valved for that (many of the bilsteins that are "revalved" are usually only revalved for the front while the rears remain the same as off-the-shelf).
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If indeed the rear Bilsteins are like what I mention, you might get away with installing the stock springs with the "rubber hose mod" so you can yield about 1/2" to 3/4" lower.