Viper

iTrader: (6)

Those do look interesting, and are probably not as noisey as heim joints/rod ends threaded into the rest of the LCA tubing.

Here's on for ya Bret, 3 years ago there was a HUGE debate over which end goes where...(with poly/heim)

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Thanks! Nope, cornering isn't a priority for me. I'm a straightline guy

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

With dual rod ends, would you expect to hear more noise at low speeds going over uneven pavement and bumps etc as compared to a dual poly or poly/rod lca?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Yes you would.

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

so for best cornering and least noise, and still help puttign the power down, the poly/rod lca would be the better decision? or will I even hear noise with that one?

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

As asked in another thread.. but realize that thread was a month old

Would the poly/poly lca hinder cornering any worse than the stock lca's?

Another thread alluded to the poly/rod still having the rattling noises.. though just slightly less...

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

I have the BMR tubular. I like them..no issues

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yes,

I don't like the fact of adding much more bind than necessary. For drag racing, the bind is quite useful, for any type of handling activity where optimal handling is required, the bind will frustrate handling.

FWIW, I use a modified version of what several of the FRRAX guys use as well.

A modified Howe racing rubber bushing on one end and a QA1 rod end on the other with a 15.5" Coleman racing aluminum arm between. On my street vehicle I mount the rubber end on the body and the spherical end on the axle itself, since the rod end is designed to handle much of the loads. Either way I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter much, however I decided to do that in order to have the rubber joint serve as a sort of "noise reducer." On my track car, I use double rod ends with a 16" Coleman racing aluminum arm.

I have had this setup for over 2 years with no dust boots and an occasional spray of SuperLube's multi-purpose PTFE lube, they're still going strong and no signs of bending on the LCA shafts themselves. They're also very road worthy for AX and RR (rules allowing).

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

Interesting that you use the rod end on the axel side....

Element

iTrader: (5)

Two questions, since I think a set of LCAs and SFCs are next on my list. Will a set of LCAs like the Edelbrocks posted earlier in this thread require any sort of modifications to bolt up? Also, are they offered in an adjustable setup? My other question is on the relocation brackets - are bolt-ins "less" beneficial than weld-ins? I'm probably going with a 12 bolt within a few months, so I don't want to waste the money on a set of weld-ons (especially with the lack of good welders in the area) if the bolt-ons offer a similar performance gain.

I was thinking about a set of UMI's tubular adjustables, since I'm ordering the SFCs from there, but not 100% sure now.

1 SIC Z

iTrader: (34)

Same here....Metco...but i am biased...

John

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

haha any diff in the umi tubular poly/poly lca's vs bmr or spohn? is it some difference in thickness or material at the ends?

Nothing seemed to stand out that made one seem better than the other

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Excellent point ...

I've used:

BMR poly/poly - junk. I cracked the housing the bushing is in and broke and identical bushing mount on a BMR PHB. They also only used 1/2" shanks for the mounts.

LG poly/poly - much better than BMRs, but still bound in the mounts when cornering. You straight line guys should consider bushing bind. When you launch crooked and are trying to save the car, binding LCAs add effective rear spring rate and will make the car over-steer badly. I think you guys call it a "tank-slapper".

LG poly/rod - Changed ends on the LG units to give the spherical bering on one end. HUGE difference. LG uses (used) 3/4" Aurora ends, probably the best avaialble at the time.

LG aluminum rod/rod - super light weight and extremely stong. Very nice and suprisingly strong. Only downside is that the LCA shaft was smooth and difficult to grip when tightening jam nuts.

Trackbird aluminum rod/rod LCAs - identical to LGM aluminum LCAs except there is a hex machined into one end that allows a 1 1/4" open end wrench to grip the shaft and allow a solid tightening of the jam nuts.

UMI rod/rod LCAs - recently installed UMI rord/rod LCAs on a road racing car. No complaints. They are chrome moly and substantially heavier than the aluminum versions. Very well made and excellent quality.

Now, all these components were spread out over 3 different road racing cars. But I have maintained and driven all 3.

Jon B.

iTrader: (5)

Quick question. What are the Trackbird LCAs? Are just the ones he described a few posts back? Also, are they any cheaper than say the LG Aluminum rod/rod LCAs? I was thinking about getting the LG Poly/Rod LCAs, but now it seems they use crappy rod ends?

Jon

Viper

iTrader: (6)

"LG uses (used) 3/4" Aurora ends, probably the best avaialble at the time."

No, he uses good rod ends. There are better ones available, not saying his are crappy at all.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

The Aurora rod ends/spherical bearings that are used in the LG arms are of very high quality. I with the exception of my LCA's and PHB, I use them everywhere else I have rod ends. They're not initially cheap to purchase, however I noticed that they last much longer than previously cheap ones, though with equivalent QA1's I have never had a problem with either.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

I use billingsley LCA's. Rod ended, chromoly, they work great at the strip and are completely quiet on the street. Definitely no complaints.

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

Yes the bolt right up. You don't need them adjustable in length if your relocation brackets have holes on arch which most do.

For your setup wait to have weld ons for your 12 bolt.

Bret

damon_Z

I have the GM factory 1LE rear control arms. I don't have a quarter mile time with them yet, but all I can say is this: they don't use polyurethane that will eventually get bent out of shape and never go back to its original form (called coldflow) and don't use spherical bushings that will eventually make squeaking noises and last for only 20,000 miles. What do they use? Good old rubber. Really hard rubber. They don't bind and coldflow like polyurethane, won't make any noises like spherical bushings, and they last several thousand miles. Best of all, there was very little to no additional NVH by going to the 1LE control arms from the factory control arms. Now, if I can just get some track time with them and see some 60 foot time improvements, then I'll laugh at how silly it is to buy aftermarket control arms.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Actually, my spherical bearings haven't worn out, and it's been like over 60K on them, but then again, I don't reside in a climate that would erode them quickly. AFA noise, still not noisy, and this is with a street vehicle that has 13 spherical bearings on them (replaced where they're applicable).

But yes, for the street damon_Z is correct about the 1LE arms. For the street and some AX, they're really hard to beat. It's more about the bushings ability not to overbind. The only reason I use a similar "homemade coleman" setup for the street is mainly because my factory arms on the street vehicle were victims of the dreaded factory tolernace lottery, otherwise I wouldn't need to replace them with what I have now.

EDIT: I am curious to see how 1LE arms would do with some high HP drag racing.