View Poll Results: What brand?
UMI
252
39.81%
BMR
176
27.80%
Spohn
84
13.27%
Hotchkis
11
1.74%
Other
110
17.38%
Voters: 633. You may not vote on this poll
Best Lower Control Arms?
05-15-2006, 09:16 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
FWIW the best LCA's out there that I have found for a STREET car is the Edelbrock ones. Not the older ones the newer ones... The spherical front joint and the poly rear prevent binding and tighten the setup up better. There are other spherical end setups but they are much weaker since they are heim joints/rod ends threaded into the rest of the LCA tubing. Plus everything has zerks fittings.
These are the edelbrock ones I am talking about
Not these
As for relocation brackets for the LCA's the weld in's are the best and you also want the brackets to be a sturdy as possible.
IF YOU DON'T PREVENT BINDING THE CAR WILL HAVE PROBLEMS ESPECIALLY IN REAR AXLE ARTICULATION. You have to have one end that can move like the joint in your wrist and the other rotate around the axis of the bolt to prevent binding.
For a race setup a sphereical joint on both ends of the LCA would work great since there would be zero deflection but that comes at the cost of a noisy harsh ride.
Bret
These are the edelbrock ones I am talking about
Not these
As for relocation brackets for the LCA's the weld in's are the best and you also want the brackets to be a sturdy as possible.
IF YOU DON'T PREVENT BINDING THE CAR WILL HAVE PROBLEMS ESPECIALLY IN REAR AXLE ARTICULATION. You have to have one end that can move like the joint in your wrist and the other rotate around the axis of the bolt to prevent binding.
For a race setup a sphereical joint on both ends of the LCA would work great since there would be zero deflection but that comes at the cost of a noisy harsh ride.
Bret
I like these as well.
I used to have the LG aluminum rod/rod- they are nice and very light, but I got tired of the way bumps at slow speeds trasmitted into the car.
I got those newer-type Edelbrock ones, and they are quiet. No harshness. No Bind. Very good for the street.
05-16-2006, 12:34 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Viper
"LG uses (used) 3/4" Aurora ends, probably the best avaialble at the time."
No, he uses good rod ends. There are better ones available, not saying his are crappy at all.
No, he uses good rod ends. There are better ones available, not saying his are crappy at all.
Jon B.
Trackbird arms are some LCAs he sourced. You should contact him for pricing. And for a street car, there is no better compromise than the poly/rod LGM LCAs. They worked great on the street and on a road course.
05-17-2006, 12:47 AM
#43
Originally Posted by dummer
I like these as well.
I used to have the LG aluminum rod/rod- they are nice and very light, but I got tired of the way bumps at slow speeds trasmitted into the car.
I got those newer-type Edelbrock ones, and they are quiet. No harshness. No Bind. Very good for the street.
I used to have the LG aluminum rod/rod- they are nice and very light, but I got tired of the way bumps at slow speeds trasmitted into the car.
I got those newer-type Edelbrock ones, and they are quiet. No harshness. No Bind. Very good for the street.
Bret
05-18-2006, 05:04 PM
#45
Launching!
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this poll is B.S. theres no way that BMR is close to as good as quality than umi. if this offends you good. As for spohn not alot of people with fourth gens buy there stuff because they started off as 3rd gen supplier(they are just as good as umi).
05-18-2006, 11:17 PM
#46
Originally Posted by firebird6786
this poll is B.S. theres no way that BMR is close to as good as quality than umi. if this offends you good. As for spohn not alot of people with fourth gens buy there stuff because they started off as 3rd gen supplier(they are just as good as umi).
If you dont like the poll dont post man.
Tony.
05-25-2006, 03:49 PM
#47
Some first time feedback in regards to BMR poly/poly tubular LCA's...
I went to the track after installation of the following pieces:
UMI Torque Arm (non-adjustable)
BMR Chromoly PHR (non-adjustable)
BMR tubular LCA'a (poly/poly)
I'm still racing on street tires, but the car REALLY hooks now. Much better off the line, and no more breaking the tires loose when it shifts into third. I'm very pleased with the car, and look forward to learning what it really likes on the strip now.
I went to the track after installation of the following pieces:
UMI Torque Arm (non-adjustable)
BMR Chromoly PHR (non-adjustable)
BMR tubular LCA'a (poly/poly)
I'm still racing on street tires, but the car REALLY hooks now. Much better off the line, and no more breaking the tires loose when it shifts into third. I'm very pleased with the car, and look forward to learning what it really likes on the strip now.
05-30-2006, 10:59 PM
#48
11 Second Club
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I purchased & Installed the BMR Boxed LCA's last week. I cannot say enough GREAT things about them.
Upon receiving them I opened the box like a kid on christmas
Out came 2 beautiful LCA's. GREAT quality from BMR, they looked like really nice pieces and I couldnt wait to put them on.
Install was a BREEZE, took about 25 mins for both of them and out the door. Just grease them up real good and they slide right in, a little hitting with your hand or lightly with a rubber mallet makes it ridiculously easy.
First Impression- The car feels ALOT tighter and more responsive around turns, just feels different all around but its a good different. Before when I'd launch of the line on the street Id spin almost all the way through first gear feathering the gas and thats on BRAND NEW tires. After the LCA's I can stall the RPM's to about 1400 and just launch it moderatly and chirp them and then just lay into it all the way through first and into second. REALLY hooks up better from a stop.
After my tune I'm shifting so hard I litterally leave smoke sometimes going into second. That was a big oncern to me, its a good show off factor...but for racing nobody wants that. After the LCA's it will still chirp them and they spin for a slight second going into second, but no more smoke and DEFINITLY feels more stable going into second.
I absolutely love these things and it was the best 140.00$ I have spent yet.
HIGHLY Reccomend BMR LCA's to people having launching issues or traction issues. The Boxed ones are huge and feel about the same weight as stock but MUCH more sturdy, they look great too!
-Chad
Upon receiving them I opened the box like a kid on christmas
Out came 2 beautiful LCA's. GREAT quality from BMR, they looked like really nice pieces and I couldnt wait to put them on. Install was a BREEZE, took about 25 mins for both of them and out the door. Just grease them up real good and they slide right in, a little hitting with your hand or lightly with a rubber mallet makes it ridiculously easy.
First Impression- The car feels ALOT tighter and more responsive around turns, just feels different all around but its a good different. Before when I'd launch of the line on the street Id spin almost all the way through first gear feathering the gas and thats on BRAND NEW tires. After the LCA's I can stall the RPM's to about 1400 and just launch it moderatly and chirp them and then just lay into it all the way through first and into second. REALLY hooks up better from a stop.
After my tune I'm shifting so hard I litterally leave smoke sometimes going into second. That was a big oncern to me, its a good show off factor...but for racing nobody wants that. After the LCA's it will still chirp them and they spin for a slight second going into second, but no more smoke and DEFINITLY feels more stable going into second.
I absolutely love these things and it was the best 140.00$ I have spent yet.
HIGHLY Reccomend BMR LCA's to people having launching issues or traction issues. The Boxed ones are huge and feel about the same weight as stock but MUCH more sturdy, they look great too!
-Chad
05-31-2006, 06:40 AM
#49
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Running a boxed poly/poly setup, works very well for straight line, but I will be switching to a UMI or equivalent poly/rod for drag/road racing.
This poll should be renamed "which LCA do you have" because thats how people vote. How would you know if yours is better than another? Take polls with a grain of salt, and read into what people have to say, there's alot of good info in this thread from a few people comparing different ones.
This poll should be renamed "which LCA do you have" because thats how people vote. How would you know if yours is better than another? Take polls with a grain of salt, and read into what people have to say, there's alot of good info in this thread from a few people comparing different ones.
05-31-2006, 04:45 PM
#50
I just installed the Random Tech Superbite kit a few days ago... It included their Torque Arm, LCA's and Relo Brackets...
I installed the Torque Arm and LCA's but didn't do the Relo Brackets... I'm not to crazy about the design and I'm going to sell them and pick up some different ones...
After the install, the sqeaks and rattles i used to get going around turns were pretty much eliminated... the car seems much tighter, the Random Tech LCA's were Poly/Poly.
I greased the **** out of the LCA's and i hear NO noise at all coming from them I'm very pleased with them so far. The only thing i'm not pleased with is I still seem to break the tires loose pretty easy from a standstill... Now, it might be because my Relo Brackets weren't installed and my car is lowered with the Eibach pro-kit so... I dunno... But the LCA's were great...
I installed the Torque Arm and LCA's but didn't do the Relo Brackets... I'm not to crazy about the design and I'm going to sell them and pick up some different ones...
After the install, the sqeaks and rattles i used to get going around turns were pretty much eliminated... the car seems much tighter, the Random Tech LCA's were Poly/Poly.
I greased the **** out of the LCA's and i hear NO noise at all coming from them
I'm very pleased with them so far. The only thing i'm not pleased with is I still seem to break the tires loose pretty easy from a standstill... Now, it might be because my Relo Brackets weren't installed and my car is lowered with the Eibach pro-kit so... I dunno... But the LCA's were great... 
06-24-2006, 11:14 AM
#53
Click link below for outstanding suspension specials. We include 1/2" upgraded bolt kits with our setups. www.sjmmanufacturing.com/deals.html
Why include larger upgraded bolts you may ask? Rod ends can introduce additional noise through the drivetrain. Manufactures using zinc lined bushing, bronze bushings or oil-lite bushings have only available to them 1/2 inch inside diameters bushings. Stock bolts are METRIC.
Let’s take the LCA’s as an example. Using a 12mm stock metric bolt through a ½” inside diameter zinc bushing will leave a larger tolerance and introduction of end-play and noise. Could we tell our folks to use the stock bolts, sure we could! We won’t for the reasons listed above.
For the reasons above, I feel that our kits are designed correctly and stand above the rest in comparison to other rod-ended setups. To boot, the special we are running is an outstanding value and a hard one to pass up.
Why include larger upgraded bolts you may ask? Rod ends can introduce additional noise through the drivetrain. Manufactures using zinc lined bushing, bronze bushings or oil-lite bushings have only available to them 1/2 inch inside diameters bushings. Stock bolts are METRIC.
Let’s take the LCA’s as an example. Using a 12mm stock metric bolt through a ½” inside diameter zinc bushing will leave a larger tolerance and introduction of end-play and noise. Could we tell our folks to use the stock bolts, sure we could! We won’t for the reasons listed above.
For the reasons above, I feel that our kits are designed correctly and stand above the rest in comparison to other rod-ended setups. To boot, the special we are running is an outstanding value and a hard one to pass up.
06-27-2006, 02:20 PM
#56
Originally Posted by 227Hawk
UMI rod-end and totally happy.
Hawk
Hawk
(I have a stock TA) Last edited by 99blancoSS; 07-10-2006 at 12:57 PM.
07-13-2006, 12:27 AM
#57
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anyone drive these rod ended LCA's year round up north? I'm curious as to how they hold up in the elements. I'm thinking rod ends won't last more than a month if I drive them in the winter. I had a set of BMR LCA's (poly/rubber) on my old Camaro and had no problems with them.
07-13-2006, 12:59 AM
#58
If you're considering using rod end setups everday for typical daily driving...I'd advise staying with what you had previously. Salt among other corrosive materials can increase wear.
Rod ended components work very well and are best suited for racing applications. There are noticable improvements seen. Most folks setting cars up for racing typically don't use their cars in normal everyday driving conditions especially as a snow-vehicle. FWIW, most race-cars won't move too well in wet or snow-covered conditions...so it isn't typially even a consideration. A 500.00 snow vehicle beater works better...
Rod-ends are not something that is typically used for daily drivers. With the price of gas these days, I'm not sure how some of you guys even consider using the a cars as daily drivers...lol With the setup we've got, I used to refer our car as the 800hp monster, now its the 4-6 MPG gas hog...lol
Rod ended components work very well and are best suited for racing applications. There are noticable improvements seen. Most folks setting cars up for racing typically don't use their cars in normal everyday driving conditions especially as a snow-vehicle. FWIW, most race-cars won't move too well in wet or snow-covered conditions...so it isn't typially even a consideration. A 500.00 snow vehicle beater works better...
Rod-ends are not something that is typically used for daily drivers. With the price of gas these days, I'm not sure how some of you guys even consider using the a cars as daily drivers...lol With the setup we've got, I used to refer our car as the 800hp monster, now its the 4-6 MPG gas hog...lol
07-13-2006, 12:45 PM
#59
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
If you're considering using rod end setups everday for typical daily driving...I'd advise staying with what you had previously. Salt among other corrosive materials can increase wear.
Rod ended components work very well and are best suited for racing applications. There are noticable improvements seen. Most folks setting cars up for racing typically don't use their cars in normal everyday driving conditions especially as a snow-vehicle. FWIW, most race-cars won't move too well in wet or snow-covered conditions...so it isn't typially even a consideration. A 500.00 snow vehicle beater works better...
Rod-ends are not something that is typically used for daily drivers. With the price of gas these days, I'm not sure how some of you guys even consider using the a cars as daily drivers...lol With the setup we've got, I used to refer our car as the 800hp monster, now its the 4-6 MPG gas hog...lol
Rod ended components work very well and are best suited for racing applications. There are noticable improvements seen. Most folks setting cars up for racing typically don't use their cars in normal everyday driving conditions especially as a snow-vehicle. FWIW, most race-cars won't move too well in wet or snow-covered conditions...so it isn't typially even a consideration. A 500.00 snow vehicle beater works better...
Rod-ends are not something that is typically used for daily drivers. With the price of gas these days, I'm not sure how some of you guys even consider using the a cars as daily drivers...lol With the setup we've got, I used to refer our car as the 800hp monster, now its the 4-6 MPG gas hog...lol
I love the way my car handles at 70 mph on backroads but at 35 its a different story. You give a little to take with rod ends.ALso I would buy from SJM over BYUN. SJM cares and actually uses the stuff they sell and is knowledgeable, Byun just wants to sell what ever he can. I asked him question specific to products he was selling and he had no clue. He's just a salesman. SJM treated me right, didnt lie to me and shipped my stuff same day. Byun doesnt stock anything, he drop ships and lies to you about shipping times and dates. This is from experience with both vendors.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 07-13-2006 at 12:51 PM.
07-13-2006, 07:13 PM
#60
"Sounds like you'd be better off with poly bushings if your gonna drove year round up there"
The only part I'll disagree about is this, because if he wants a car that handles, poly bushings are not it. So he's back to rod ends, getting dust boots for them and replacing once a year or two at $30 per end. Or 1LE rubber for some better handling than stock; you can get 1LE replacement bushings from stranoparts for cheap.
Now this comes from trying rubber, poly and rod ends. And driving in the winter the first 2 years I owned the car. Now I drive an 06' Corolla when it so much as rains but that's me. My $.02.
The only part I'll disagree about is this, because if he wants a car that handles, poly bushings are not it. So he's back to rod ends, getting dust boots for them and replacing once a year or two at $30 per end. Or 1LE rubber for some better handling than stock; you can get 1LE replacement bushings from stranoparts for cheap.
Now this comes from trying rubber, poly and rod ends. And driving in the winter the first 2 years I owned the car. Now I drive an 06' Corolla when it so much as rains but that's me. My $.02.