How to bleed brakes?
05-10-2006, 01:22 PM
#1
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How to bleed brakes? i feel dumb lol ive done a motor swap in my driveway but i no idea how to bleed fluids and only have done brakes once myself on my car ever. anyway with that said and me feeling dumb i wanna paint my brake rotors in the process of making my car pretty for car shows this summer. now can somone give me a step by step on how to fill and bleed the brake system. and if i need i think my friend may have one of those powerbleeders but im not sure.
05-11-2006, 03:43 AM
#2
Clamp the brake line with a pair of vice grips, make sure the clamp is really tight.
Disconnect the caliper from the brake line. Be prepared to have a plastic drain ready since brake fluid will come out of the calipers.( remove the brake fluid cap)
After your done with your cleaning and painting hook the calipers back up.( make sure you have the washers installed on the fitting where the brake line and the caliper meet)
Once both calipers are on, get a open ended wrench that will fit the bleeder screw on the caliper.
Have someone in the car, tell them to push down on the pedal, once they do this have them hold it down. Loosen the screw and let the brake fluid come out, it will spurt and spit as it lets the air out.
Close the screw and tell them to let off the brake. Continue on all calipers until the fluid comes out clear and and in full streams.
Check the brake fluid level so you dont run it dry and put air into the lines.
Top off the resovoir.
Disconnect the caliper from the brake line. Be prepared to have a plastic drain ready since brake fluid will come out of the calipers.( remove the brake fluid cap)
After your done with your cleaning and painting hook the calipers back up.( make sure you have the washers installed on the fitting where the brake line and the caliper meet)
Once both calipers are on, get a open ended wrench that will fit the bleeder screw on the caliper.
Have someone in the car, tell them to push down on the pedal, once they do this have them hold it down. Loosen the screw and let the brake fluid come out, it will spurt and spit as it lets the air out.
Close the screw and tell them to let off the brake. Continue on all calipers until the fluid comes out clear and and in full streams.
Check the brake fluid level so you dont run it dry and put air into the lines.
Top off the resovoir.
05-11-2006, 06:53 AM
#3
DO NOT CRUSH YOUR BRAKE LINES WITH VICE GRIPS!!!!!!!!!
Jesus ... some of the hair brained ideas I read on this site amazes me.
When you remove the banjo bolt from the caliper, insert a 3/8" x 1" bolt reusing the 2 crush seals on either side of the banjo fitting.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...n/image002.jpg
This will seal the system back for as long as you need to have the caliper off.
Make sure you use NEW crush seals when reinstalling the caliper.
Jesus ... some of the hair brained ideas I read on this site amazes me.
When you remove the banjo bolt from the caliper, insert a 3/8" x 1" bolt reusing the 2 crush seals on either side of the banjo fitting.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...n/image002.jpg
This will seal the system back for as long as you need to have the caliper off.
Make sure you use NEW crush seals when reinstalling the caliper.
05-11-2006, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by blown 346
Clamp the brake line with a pair of vice grips, make sure the clamp is really tight.
http://www.carcentral.net/content/gu...rakeSystem.php
http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_bleed_brakes2.htm
I have my whole braking system apart as we speak, as I am in the process of replacing: rubber brake lines with Earl's Hyperfirm ones, pads, rotors and brake fluid. I will also be painting the hats on my rotors as well as my calipers and caliper brackets.
05-11-2006, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rgaynor85
where can i get these crush seals, anywhere i supose like autozone and such.
05-11-2006, 08:45 AM
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I used to think those self-bleeders were just for people who had no friends and couldnt find some poor sap to sit in the car and push the brake peddel down.... but my brother gave me one to use once (when i had no friends) and it works really well. And do not use vice grips on a brake line.
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05-11-2006, 09:49 AM
#8
Originally Posted by mitchntx
DO NOT CRUSH YOUR BRAKE LINES WITH VICE GRIPS!!!!!!!!!
Jesus ... some of the hair brained ideas I read on this site amazes me.
When you remove the banjo bolt from the caliper, insert a 3/8" x 1" bolt reusing the 2 crush seals on either side of the banjo fitting.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...n/image002.jpg
This will seal the system back for as long as you need to have the caliper off.
Make sure you use NEW crush seals when reinstalling the caliper.
Jesus ... some of the hair brained ideas I read on this site amazes me.
When you remove the banjo bolt from the caliper, insert a 3/8" x 1" bolt reusing the 2 crush seals on either side of the banjo fitting.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...n/image002.jpg
This will seal the system back for as long as you need to have the caliper off.
Make sure you use NEW crush seals when reinstalling the caliper.
The install university write-up details rebuilding the front calipers...how's about the rear calipers? Are they even worth rebuilding? I'll have them all out in the near future for painting...figure I might as well rebuild what I can while they're out.
05-11-2006, 10:26 AM
#9
The rears shouldn't be too different.
But, I've found reman calipers from chain parts stores are not much more than the cost of the rebuild kits. I paid $34 each for reman front calipers from O'Reilly's.
I have bought crush seals from AZ and NAPA. But the GM seals are just about as cheap and fit better.
I never had very good luck with the aluminum seals sent with replacement brake line kits. The copper seals seem to seal with a lot less torque. Remember, the caliper is just cast aluminum alloy. Very soft.
The solo bleeders are great ... when new. Get them hot or dirty and they don't vent well and then don't seal well. Just my experience.
But, I've found reman calipers from chain parts stores are not much more than the cost of the rebuild kits. I paid $34 each for reman front calipers from O'Reilly's.
I have bought crush seals from AZ and NAPA. But the GM seals are just about as cheap and fit better.
I never had very good luck with the aluminum seals sent with replacement brake line kits. The copper seals seem to seal with a lot less torque. Remember, the caliper is just cast aluminum alloy. Very soft.
The solo bleeders are great ... when new. Get them hot or dirty and they don't vent well and then don't seal well. Just my experience.
05-11-2006, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
But the GM seals are just about as cheap and fit better.
thanks,
Paul
05-11-2006, 03:22 PM
#12
Im not saying crush the bake lines, Clamp the rubber line that goes to the caliper so brake fluid doesnt run all ove the place. Im not going to give out bad advice. This is what I do everytime I have replaced calipers, and it has worked perfectly fine for me as many other mechanics.
05-11-2006, 10:40 PM
#13
And where do you and all these mechanics work? I'd really like to know that info for future reference.
I've seen "mechanics" shove sticks in fuel lines, dirty rags into intake runners, recycle trans fluid and use household wire nuts on electrical repairs.
I've found wrenches in the bottom of oil pans, driveshaft weights zip-tied on and Wal-Mart tire plugs used on Z-rated tires.
Just because you can doesn't mean it's the right thing to do.
A $.10 bolt and nut will accomplish the same task, is cheaper than a $10 pair of vice grips and when noticed by your peers and clients, looks a little more professional.
I won't mention the stress you put on the line. Because in order to get a seal, at least 2 places on that brake line has to be folded 180* and every pair of vice grips I've ever seen has relatively sharp teeth.
Just admit you have discovered a better way to do things, say thank you and move on ....
I've seen "mechanics" shove sticks in fuel lines, dirty rags into intake runners, recycle trans fluid and use household wire nuts on electrical repairs.
I've found wrenches in the bottom of oil pans, driveshaft weights zip-tied on and Wal-Mart tire plugs used on Z-rated tires.
Just because you can doesn't mean it's the right thing to do.
A $.10 bolt and nut will accomplish the same task, is cheaper than a $10 pair of vice grips and when noticed by your peers and clients, looks a little more professional.
I won't mention the stress you put on the line. Because in order to get a seal, at least 2 places on that brake line has to be folded 180* and every pair of vice grips I've ever seen has relatively sharp teeth.
Just admit you have discovered a better way to do things, say thank you and move on ....
05-12-2006, 11:01 AM
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dont mean to steal ur thread but i did all that but now my passenger front caliper is engaged and wont let go of the brake pads 
i replaced both front calipers and the passenger brake line hose still wont disengage and btw what i mean by engaged is even without me pushing the brake its still applied but only to that caliper
i replaced both front calipers and the passenger brake line hose still wont disengage and btw what i mean by engaged is even without me pushing the brake its still applied but only to that caliper
05-12-2006, 11:33 AM
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maye somthin else is stuck i had one wheel on my mazda lock once it was the master somethin got stuck in the hydrolic unit and cause it to lock the one wheel but i dunno how the f-body brake system compares to my old 88 mazda
05-12-2006, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rgaynor85
maye somthin else is stuck i had one wheel on my mazda lock once it was the master somethin got stuck in the hydrolic unit and cause it to lock the one wheel but i dunno how the f-body brake system compares to my old 88 mazda
maybe but dont know where to take it so then can inspect the whole system
05-20-2006, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by blown 346
Have someone in the car, tell them to push down on the pedal, once they do this have them hold it down. Loosen the screw and let the brake fluid come out
thanks
05-20-2006, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by yekta
THE SCREW, does anyone have a picture of it?
thanks
thanks
