Italiano99

ok, I know this has been covered in a million threads but I hear good and bad things from both sides and still am confused

Dom

iTrader: (2)

I got my drilled/slotted for looks. I'm not autoxing so it doesn't matter. I can't tell a difference. I got hawk ceramics so pads are better then the oem type that where on there with stock rotors. Braking is way better with these pads even with slots/holes. For street purposes it doesn't matter.

What is your goal? Ultimate braking or looks?

gyrene2003

yeah, if your just gonna use em on the street or at the 1/4 occasionally than it doesent matter, mine are also for looks. got em off ws6store.com, pads are where u will see the big difference on the street!

RedWS601

iTrader: (1)

I didn't read the whole thread so sorry if the info I put is repeated.
I put neither because drilled and slotted look so sweet with an open rim and painted calipers. But for performance I would get blank rotors. Blank because they don't slice the brake pad under severe braking, slotted ones do. Drilled ones give the pad less surface to grab, imo.

Italiano99

ok, I think ill go with drilled and slotted because I am almost all street. I rarely go over 100 mph and I am gettin a set of C6's, 18's all around so havin some good looking rotors behind them would be nice.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Neither for me. I'd rather not have a nice set of new pads subjected to the cheese grater test when I need to stop from 110+.

Italiano99

isn't it the drills that do that mostly? or is it the slots that are worse for your pads?

VIP1

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/477787-need-help-explain-slotted-drilled-rotors.html

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Here are a few questions:

How much outgassing do you think you are going to have? I say only for the initial bed-in, which isn't very long and you're not supposed to drive hard on your brakes during that period anyways.

Which is better for less fade, a thicker pad or a thinner one? A thicker pad with more of its material will indeed have much better ability to absorb heat better and remain cooler so the rotor won't have to absorb more of the heat from braking, so why have rotor face patterns that are known to scrape pad material away quicker than needed.

AFA friction surfaces are concerned, which will indeed have better contact between pads and the rotors? Flat surfaces will, because unless the pads are so flexible to absolutely shape right into the hole at that moment, there is less friction to be produced with the rotor surface "voids" present.

For increased friction, where would one go to, pads or rotors? The pads since that's really the compound material that changed in order to induce a higher coefficient of friction. Yes, the rotor material is important, however merely reducing the rotor surface does not add the needed friction but rather the opposite.

For any pad material, which produces more fiction against the pad surface, air or cast iron? The answer should be a giveaway.

FWIW, remember that what aestetics and fancy wording can produce is seperate than what actual science evidence will produce.

If you want to spend more money for looks, then all of the fancy rotor face patterns will probably satisfy you. If it's reliability and performance you're after, then get a blank rotor upgrade, preferably from brembo, or if that's a bit costly, then autozone duralast blanks should suffice. The OE rotors are just not that great, but to spend more money for looks isn't something I would do, especially since brakes are really one of the critical safety features of all cars.

Dom

iTrader: (2)

Obviously blanks are better for performance. There isn't any gas from pads anymore. We know. We get slots/holes for looks. I have two fbodies both with hawk ceramic pads, but one with blank brembos and other with slots/holes and I can't tell a difference. I'm sure it's there, but it is so minute that I can't tell. Some of you hardcore autox ppl bash slots/holes so much it makes it seem like the car won't be able to stop. Both cars stop excellent and the one with slots/holes has extra 300-400lbs more weight. I drove around with two mounted nittos in the back too and my car didn't flip due to extra weight in the trunk. Let's relax a little and realize not everyone wants their car setup 100% for performance/cornering/braking. Some of us got these cars for looks also and like to make them look good too. My halos block some light, but hell no I'm not taking them off. My rotors have slots in them. My tires right now are all seasons not Hoosier racing tires. I'm about to put a system in my car. Oh no extra weight. I have ttops. There goes my rigidity. I guess I should have bought a coupe. I don't think I'd be enjoying my car without those things. If that's enjoyment for some, go ahead and have fun.

I actually took one of my cars to Blackhawk and ran on stock brakes. The first 4 laps of racing they were fine, 5th lap I lost my brakes. So there is the limit of stock brakes. 9 turns times 4 laps, 36 really hard stops in a matter of a few minutes. Very minimal cool-off time. I don't think anyone is going to be doing that on the street. If you make a hard stop from 100+, I don't think you're going to be making another right after.

What do brake pads cost? $20 for oem chepos from parts store and $65 for hawks. It's really not a big deal to me to even change them annually. They can probably last a few years of normal driving on blank rotors. It's funny when someone mentions pads wearing out fast and in their sig they have crazy expensive mods.

Maybe the same people should corner slower since that wears out the tires and tires are a critical part of our car's safety.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

What I typed above is to clarify through the fog of advertisements and placebo effects that many will have. I will continue to type to offer insight and let the end user make up their mind. with the exception of a moderator, no one will tell me how to type.

I have cracked more cross-drilled/slotted/dimpled, etc. rotors more times than I care to admit, and on the street, even with proper bed-in. They are by far a waste of money.

BTW, I have had a stock brake system on my street car for over three years (look at my join date).

chicane

Ok. So what we know from all of this is, that a "good looking" set of rotors is subjective..... and what you are looking for is a "good looking" set of rotors. With that summed up... go spend your money.

What else have we summed up form all of the discussion about cross drilled and/or slotted rotors ?? Its that the only real difference in your application is that you are taking the increased chance of a rotor failing due to a "vanity" issue. If you can live with that.... go for it.

But just for the record, I have seen many rotors that were being used on daily drivers that were driven by people that only knew to 'check the gas and fill the oil'...... they never saw a speed over 80-85mph...... and their blingy cross drilled rotors failed. Just like the guys who drive them like they stole them.

And I just gotta say..... Dom, I love the Chi-town humor.

Italiano99

ok but the failing of cross drilled/slotted rotors has a lot to do with the brand... so what do you guys think of the sale that WS6store.com has going on for thier rotoworks (I believe) drilled slotted rotors?

DanO

Here are a few exmaples... All are competition race vehicles

Audi R8 (carbon rotors)


Lotus Sport Exige



NASCAR



Formula 1 (also carbon rotors)



And a neat video of F1 brake capablility F1 Brake Vid

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

I like blanks.

rgaynor85

i have the ws6store rotorworks d/s rotors, with hawk hps pads and so far i like them alot. for the 180 bucks i believe they are a good buy. very nice looking and i stop on a dime compared to my stock ones it seem. plus they havent warped yet

Screamin_Z

iTrader: (2)

I got cross drilled/slotted rotors and I'm going to get rid of them. The pads I have...axxis metal, are good but IMO cross drilled and slotted are just for looks. I have small grooves in my front rotors from getting dirt/rocks or whatever from the holes and there is noise from the front rotors from high MPH stops (125mph 1/4mile) They work fine on the street but IMO they are not good for performance aplications. The dust is just HORRIBLE, I knew there was going to be more but MY GOD! after 5-6 runs down the 1/4 my front wheels are gunmetal color...I have the factory painted 01 SS wheels.

Sam suggested a rotor for me and he said it's all he runs, Brembo blanks. Order them from him. He also suggest Hawk and Axxis pads for street/strip aplications.

Italiano99

well right now I am leaning towards rotoworks slotted only but where can I get a price on brembo blanks?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

you could call stranoparts.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Get them from Sam..... www.stranoparts.com

Check with him for pricing.