anyone see this kmember
05-25-2006, 12:23 PM
#4
There is a better one coming out very soon from UMI, and I expect to sell a bunch.
Better because it's stronger, more for handling than drag racing. First difference is there are two cross tubes, not just one. A lot more lateral strength is the result. Also the alignment holes are larger, so you can get more negative camber if you like. There are also going to be some beefy gussets as well.
Price is going to be right around $479.
Anyone interested, just give me call (out tomorrow for the weekend, but back on Tuesday). Happy to discuss it with you, and if you want pre-order one for you.
Better because it's stronger, more for handling than drag racing. First difference is there are two cross tubes, not just one. A lot more lateral strength is the result. Also the alignment holes are larger, so you can get more negative camber if you like. There are also going to be some beefy gussets as well.
Price is going to be right around $479.
Anyone interested, just give me call (out tomorrow for the weekend, but back on Tuesday). Happy to discuss it with you, and if you want pre-order one for you.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
05-25-2006, 12:51 PM
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only thing is that the spohn is going to be offered in chromoly. i think UMI should do this, but probably wont for a while. i agree that the UMI piece is what i would probably get. Just for the 2 tube design. if i was hard core drag than the spohn would be my choice. the spohn piece should be able to handle road coursing, because that is what they build parts for usually.
05-25-2006, 01:07 PM
#6
Chrome-Moly is more brittle than is mild-steel. I wouldn't want a CM k-member myself.
There is no way I'd trust a single cross tube k-member. ALL, and I mean *ALL* the lateral loads go into that thing, and I don't want 1+g of lateral force going through just one piece of pipe. MHO.
As for the building for road course use... Good marketing. But news to me, I don't see too many cars autoxing or open tracking with Spohn parts on them. Not saying they are bad quality or anything from what I've handled they are not. However that doesn't make them suitable. For instance I've looked at, held, made suggestions to Ryan about his part based on past experience from my own and other's actual competition use, as well as seeing past failure areas.
There is no way I'd trust a single cross tube k-member. ALL, and I mean *ALL* the lateral loads go into that thing, and I don't want 1+g of lateral force going through just one piece of pipe. MHO.
As for the building for road course use... Good marketing. But news to me, I don't see too many cars autoxing or open tracking with Spohn parts on them. Not saying they are bad quality or anything from what I've handled they are not. However that doesn't make them suitable. For instance I've looked at, held, made suggestions to Ryan about his part based on past experience from my own and other's actual competition use, as well as seeing past failure areas.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
05-25-2006, 01:39 PM
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wow. i did not know. i am not an autoxr, but i thought they were into that. i guess i was wrong. i would trust your opinion. i do think spohn makes some good pieces. i have their torque arm and that thing is solid. i could not ask for a more quality piece. i do think the 2 bar is great. as for the chromoly i know all about it (notice were i am from) i was aminly talking for drag racing and weight savings. again i would go with the UMI piece hands down.
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05-25-2006, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Chrome-Moly is more brittle than is mild-steel. I wouldn't want a CM k-member myself.
Chromoly is Far superior to a mild steel for this application. The strenght is much greater and the modulus of elasticity is the same. This means you will have a much longer fatigue life out of the chromoloy of the same dimensions and loads.
pretty much the only downside to chromoly for this application is cost. (unless they are dumb and reduce the wall sections when the go to chromoloy... defeating the whole point)
If the whole concern with K-members is them not being strong enough and breaking.. why would you want to use a weaker material? Granted the geometry and load paths are of greatest concern.. but since its trying to be the strongest and stand up to the repeated 1g+ forces.. why not? Can you get away with a mild steel version.. yes.. but you need good geometry and load path designs.. will the same one be even better when made out of chromoly.. you bet!
I'll even give you the benefit of the doubt and compare it to a medium carbon steel..
Medium Carbon steel 1030 (Normalized 1" bar)
http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...bassnum=M1030H
Chromoloy 4130 (Normalized 1" bar)
http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...bassnum=M4130C
05-25-2006, 06:47 PM
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The reason you cannot trust Chromoly is it looses all its superior strength when you weld it and WILL NOT get it back unless you reheat treat the entire piece and I will almost gaurantee you that the fab shops do not retreat. I had along discussion about this exact issue with my old supervisor, who is one of the main Metallic Materials personnel for Navy vessels.
05-26-2006, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GrnDragon
The reason you cannot trust Chromoly is it looses all its superior strength when you weld it and WILL NOT get it back unless you reheat treat the entire piece and I will almost gaurantee you that the fab shops do not retreat. I had along discussion about this exact issue with my old supervisor, who is one of the main Metallic Materials personnel for Navy vessels.
05-26-2006, 03:05 PM
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CroMo or mild, the pieces fail in the welds and not the tube
itself. Every busted K-member pic I've seen, is a weld that
pulled off the root. The designs are just not failsafe, two
critical welds holding the front of the car together is a
doomed design. Thing is, just a tiny bit of overstrapping,
less than a pound, could prevent those failures.
But it's such a pain in the *** to install I'll wait for mine
to break, before welding in what I know it wants.
itself. Every busted K-member pic I've seen, is a weld that
pulled off the root. The designs are just not failsafe, two
critical welds holding the front of the car together is a
doomed design. Thing is, just a tiny bit of overstrapping,
less than a pound, could prevent those failures.
But it's such a pain in the *** to install I'll wait for mine
to break, before welding in what I know it wants.