Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Alright, my car is old, very old, 10 years and 140k miles to be exact. It was NOT well taken care of, and has been in 1 small accident. So I have the car looking great from the outside, but from the driverseat, the car feels like ****. In parking lots, tight slow turns are clunky/squeeky/and just plain shitty. On the road, the turns are till loosy goose, and the car feels like its gonna fly da **** apart at high speed ( 100+ ) and rides so hard, I mean every little bump in the road jars my fillings loose..

I am looking to update my (probably original, stock) front peices. I have talked/read a bit, and think I have a good idea, on how to build my front suspension on a budget. Heres what I have in mind

Bilstin's off of a 98+ slp car
and then 1 coil cut off the stock springs for a 1 inch drop in the front.


Now are there any other things that I can do/replace/upgrade slightly to make my car, atleast handle as good as a stock f-body. I don't want to do a swaybar or anything hard core racing, no qa1's needed, just looking for a nice, daily driven set up, that wouldn't break the bank? I have replaced the outer tie-rod ends on the car, its got a fresh alignment, but I would go get a new one afterwards duh... What else should I do?

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Someone told me that springs and struts on performance cars are only good for 30K miles. After that they slowly start to loose it.

If it makes u feel better my car is an 02 and it squeeks like a den of mice whenever i got over speed bumps.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Mine squeeks so bad I am about to wash it in White Lithium greese....

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

If you cut your springs, it will ride worse. If you're on a budget, get the Bilstein shocks from Stranoparts before you do anything else. Then do subframe connectors. Then sway bars. Those 3 things will tighten and quiet the car down tremendously. Most common squeak is the sway bushings, front and rear. Grease those and see where you are. Make sure your rear diff isn't going. If it is, decide how badly you want to keep the car - it'll cost you.

At that mileage, so many things can start to go, make sure you have a decent foundation before you start pouring money in. It may be worthwhile to find a Chev/Pont dealer you **trust** and pay them a half hour or hour to drive it, pull the wheels, and to really go through the car.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

A 'new' rear wont cost me much, at most 200 bucks, and a couple hours to install it, my buddie just got a 20k mile 3.42 rear out of a 00ss for like ~150 bucks... As far as replacing all the bushings in the front, exactly what bushings are there? I know the ones on the sway bar are squeeking, and what else? What bushings are the best to replace them with, and where do I get them..

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

All bushings (I belive you can buy a kit that has everything) new shocks, and rag joint eliminator.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

I'd love a link, or some directions for a kit. Whats a rag joint?


Im gonna go try and greese my sway bar bushings, and take care of the brake noise I have from the rear, thanks for the help guys.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

just got a KILLER deal on a set of boxed 3point bolt in sfc's, gonna be here by the end of the week hopefully. Im gonna bolt em up, drive with em for a while to see if the ground clearance sucks, then if it doesn't, I'll weld em up. 100 bucks shipped.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

A rag joint eliminator replaces that rubber joint in your steering shaft with a machined aluminum part to reduce slop in the steering.

gun5l1ng3r

There is a rubber piece in my steering? Is that LT1 specific? And where is this part located?

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)