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I installed the Spohn TA last weekend. Since then I have had this horrendous rattle. Turns out it is the ds loop is right against the y-pipe. I tried undoing the y-pipe and moving it, but it didn't budge. After I got to looking at it and reading the instructions, I discovered that the instructions say that if you have KBDD or SLP sub frame connectors, put the g-brace under the subframe connectors. Well I looked and looked and can't for the life of me figure out how they are going to go under those subframe connectors. For those who have this ta, you have round tubing that is the g-brace. Both ends of my g-brace connector extend into the area where the sub frame connectors bolt to the frame. There is no way that is going to go under those sub frame connectors. HAs anybody else had this problem and how did you fix it. If I could figure a way to get the g-brace under the subframe connectors I would gain about 1/4" clearance which would fix the problem, I think. I've taken some pictures and will try to post those.
man thats tricky, im tryin to set up the pinion angle, im under there right now too, give me a little bit and let me see if i cant help you out while im tryin to fix my ****
man thats tricky, im tryin to set up the pinion angle, im under there right now too, give me a little bit and let me see if i cant help you out while im tryin to fix my ****
Thanks, I certainly would appreciate it. I don't see how that brace with the tubing will go under those SFC's. But if you find a way, I'd sure like to know about it.
k im lookin at it right now and im readin through the instructions, the driver side seems do able, the thing that is lookin grim is the passenger side, the forward most tube on the torque arm is farther to the passenger door than the rear tube, the forward tube is welded all the way through to if you're feelin really daring you could do some cuttin and grinding, the one thing that is for sure is that you're gonna want longer bolts and probably a little loc-tite, i dunno man what do you think?
k im lookin at it right now and im readin through the instructions, the driver side seems do able, the thing that is lookin grim is the passenger side, the forward most tube on the torque arm is farther to the passenger door than the rear tube, the forward tube is welded all the way through to if you're feelin really daring you could do some cuttin and grinding, the one thing that is for sure is that you're gonna want longer bolts and probably a little loc-tite, i dunno man what do you think?
I've been out for a while. I hear what your saying. The driver side may be workable, but that passenger side is just dead wrong. When we put this thing on last weekend, my son put it under and said the holes just didn't line up that way and wouldn't. So he put it like it is now. And like I said, it's on the ypipe and it rattles to beat hell. I don't really want to grind on it because did you see how thick that thing is? You'd be grinding till christmas and still probably wouldn't get it right. There has got to be a better way.
As for the angle questions, I think what I read in your post was it was showing 6* left of 0* on the driveshaft and what was it on the pinion? IF what you said was it was 6* left of 0* then that is -6*. Once you find the angle of the pinion, you subtract that from the -6*.
Let me know how your going to fix this problem please.
would you be opposed to modifying the SFC's? oh yeah see if the most recent post i made in there makes sense
How would you modify these things except cutting on the g-brace bars and I think if you cut on those wouldn't it weaken the torque arm since it's pulling up on that g-brace?
IF your talking about the readings you got on your driveshaft and pinion angles being 6* to the left of 0 on both driveshaft and pinion reading, I think your right, the pinion angle is 0*. -6 - -6 = 0.
i was thinkin more along the lines of cuttin part of the SFC and then possibly welding it to the g-brace, im still tryin to figure this out, i tried callin spohn today but they wont be open apparently unitl july 5
i was thinkin more along the lines of cuttin part of the SFC and then possibly welding it to the g-brace, im still tryin to figure this out, i tried callin spohn today but they wont be open apparently unitl july 5
Problem solved, the bracket that is on the ypipe, I undid the bolts, drilled another hole between the stock holes and then pulled the ypipe down and bolted into that hole. About 1/2" of clearance now.
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