GMAddict

I took my '02 to the track for the first time last Thursday and was very disappointed with the results. On every launch, whether I granny'ed it off the line or dropped the clutch at 2K, I had severe wheel hop in 1st and 2nd gear. I have noticed this problem on the street when I really get on it, but never to this degree before. There was another '02 Z28 there that night and he wasn't having any trouble at all with wheel hop, so I have to exclude problems with the track surface as a cause.
I am thinking about replacing the rear lower control arms with the double bearing Global West units, but I wanted to get opinions on whether or not these would make a substantial difference. I am also considering the lower control arm brackets and/or the Traclink piece. Has anyone successfully used these pieces to control wheel hop problems?

Thanks,

<small>[ May 07, 2002, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: GMAddict ]</small>

DCPunkSteve

Replacing the LCA's torque arm, and using LCA relocation brakets will make a dramatic improvement. I would also recamend using an adjustable panhard rod, since this is what centers your rear end. Global West is some of the best stuff out there right now, particularly if you want to road race. In my opinion it's as good, and in certain cases better than the LG motorsports equipment. LG does make great stuff though. Both LG, and Global West's parts are expensive, so alot of people here like BMR, but in my opinion, it's great for street/strip drags, but not great for overall handling.

Postal

Metco LCA's with the relo brkts that come with the Metco's. A Tq Arm of your choice. Preferably something adjustable. I don't think that the PHR will help combat wheel hop very much. An adjustable BMR PHR goes for like $115. So the price won't sink ya if you add it to the equation.

Beth

I have the same problem with my 98. I have Hotchkis LCA's and panhard bar. Still no difference in wheel hop from stock. Relocation brackets sitting here for install, but I am not optomistic... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> I really thought the Hotchkis would make a difference...

What tires? I'm wondering if it is my Nittos?

Mach Go

You'd think after 30+ years of making F-bodies that GM could finally eliminate wheel-hop. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
I installed a set of Lakewood LCA's a month ago...
...that helped eliminate about 50% of the hop.This past weekend I installed a poly trans-mount and poly torque arm bushing...the hop is almost non-existent. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> An added bonus was that the car felt more solid and stable...pulled a little straighter too. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Jason

Ozz

The Relocation brackets are a must they made all the difference in the world on my 99.

Ozz

Mach Go

Hey Ozz,
Which relocation brakets did you use?
Jason

GMAddict

Ok, well I have pretty much decided to give the Global West LCAs a shot first. I have been kicking around a theory as to why I am experencing such nasty wheel hop versus the other relatively stock Z that was at the track that night. Could it be that since I have subframe connectors, which are welded in directly on and ahead of the lower control arm mounts, the LCA mounts are held much more rigidly than stock? And, therefore any deflection that might have normally happened in the mounts, under heavy load, is now showing up only in the LCAs and bushings and causing the severe hop?

Mach Go

Hmmmm...interesting theory Grant. I too have welded connectors and had experienced MASSIVE hop before making my mods. You may be onto something. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Ozz

Jason I am using the Metco LCAs and bolt on RLBs but I am adding a Moser 12 bolt on the 23rd so they will weld on the RLBs then. I am also going to a Race Prepped 4l60e From Speed Inc, with a 3200 stall so we shall see what happens then.

Ozz

MOORESTANGS

I just installed the Metco LCA's and bolt-on relocation brackets(paid $200), I am extremely happy with these, no more wheel hop, and the rear feels soild!! No noise what so ever, just torque them to spec(80lb ft.), and use only synthetic chassis grease!! My car always cuts 2.0x 60ft's, cant wait to see what it will do now!

Good Luck!!

SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

So what is the general verdict on Which Parts to buy to eliminate wheel hop?

GMAddict

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SERIALPIMP:
<strong>So what is the general verdict on Which Parts to buy to eliminate wheel hop?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well from what the response has been here and on the other boards I posted this question, I would say the following are parts which help:

LCAs w/poly bushings or bearings
LCA relocation brackets
Replacement torque arms
Poly torque arm bushings/mounts
Subframe connectors.

As to which combination is the best or which brands, I really don't know at this point. It is hard to isolate which parts have made the most difference since people tend to put most or all of these parts on at one time.

Since I am strapped for money right now, I am going to do them one at a time until I get it under control. The first one I am going to try is the Global West LCAs w/heim joints. I know there are a lot of other less expensive options, but I want the bearings versus bushings and GW are the only ones with bearings on both ends. If that doesn't work, I'll move onto poly mounts/bushings for the torque arm, then LCA brackets. I'll keep you all posted...

99 WS6

I was looking at the GW control arms and would buy them but they are not adjustable.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

The most probably reason you got wheel hop while the other guy didn't is that he was probably an automatic while your a m6. The fact is, m6's shock the driveline after every shift and on launches due to loading/unloading the drivetrain. With an automatic, the slack in the drivetrain is taken up instantly from start to finish and the shifts happen so much quicker and smoother than engaging/disengaging the clutch.

I went with the bmr lca's (poly/poly) and relocation brackets and his panhard rod and that seemed to help dramtically. I also have slp bolt in sub frame connectors which I am planning on having welded.

axe

I have a '99 Z28 and also have massive wheel hop under power on anything but perfectly smooth pavement. This is on the street, btw - not full-throttle dragstrip launches or anything. I have SFC's that support the LCA mounts, 175# rear springs (rear end lowered by about 1.5"), Koni sports (yellows), and I run Yoko A032's and have tried the following:

- new stock shocks
- rod-ended LCAs
- rod-ended panhard
- random tech t-arm
- poly tranny mount
- new torsen

I've tried those parts in various combinations over the past year during which the hop has been getting progressively worse. I discovered yesterday that the 2.5-year-old Konis are definitely dead (leaking oil and car bobs up and down after hopping off the rear bumper).

I guess I'll try the relocation brackets. After getting some new shocks, that is! :-/

rich

axel and others when the car lanches the rear squats down and the angle of the lca's gets more level when that gets level it is no longer pushing the force down to the pavement it is pushing it back and then it unloads and starts hop the more power you have the worse it will hop and the better the traction the worse it will hop. Now Axle you lowered your car the lca's are probably level or real close to it before you even step on the gas that is why you are hopping so bad the hop is probably what killed your shocks. I have stock boxed lca's bmr lac relocation brackets bmr adjustable torque arm 2 degress neg pinion angle stock springs and shocks all bolted to a moser 9" with bfgdrs 17" 20psi on the street it will barly spin the tires with a 3200 stall and that is with out doing a burn out or any thing waiting to spray it and see what she will do then. I also have the batt in the spare tire well. 2000 ss convertable hope this helps you out.

GMAddict

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by The Alchemist:
<strong>The most probably reason you got wheel hop while the other guy didn't is that he was probably an automatic while your a m6. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, actually his was a six-speed as well. He was running on slicks that night and had no problems with hop; he said when he ran on street tires he was fine as well.