Replacing wheel studs?
Replacing wheel studs? I've got 2 broken wheel studs on my rear drivers side. The only thing I know about replacing them is that I can't do it myself without a press. So since the car is on jacks for another week or so, I want to just take whatever I need to to a shop and have them do it. I looked at them, it almost looks like they stick out of the rotars. Once I get the rotar off, what do I need to remove? Are they part of the axle? How would I go about getting that out?
Remove the brakes.
Remove the rear diff cover.
Spin the diff over till you see a small bolt that goes through the diff and into a round pin. The pin is about 3/4" in diameter. An 8mm will remove the small keeper bolt. Remove it.
GENLTY tap the pin with a hammer to EASE it out. KNock it out about 1-2", spin the diff, grab the pin and pull.
Remove the buscuit.
push one axle in further (the pin was holding it out)
Use a magnet and remove the "C" clip in the groove in the end of the axle. They call it a "C" clip because it's shapped like a "C". The "C" clip is held inplace by the axle housing.
Once the "C" clip is out, pull the axle out.
Now, you don't really need a press, just a BFH. Support the flange of the axle on a vice or something and beat the old studs out with a BFH.
Then, set the new stud in place and using a sacrificail lug nut, wrench the new stud in place by torquing down the lug nut till the back of the stud is flush against the axle flange.
Reinstall everything ...
On my 96 CMC Firebird, I ground a notch in the brake backing plate so I could just beat the old studs out with removing any of that other stuff.
Remove the rear diff cover.
Spin the diff over till you see a small bolt that goes through the diff and into a round pin. The pin is about 3/4" in diameter. An 8mm will remove the small keeper bolt. Remove it.
GENLTY tap the pin with a hammer to EASE it out. KNock it out about 1-2", spin the diff, grab the pin and pull.
Remove the buscuit.
push one axle in further (the pin was holding it out)
Use a magnet and remove the "C" clip in the groove in the end of the axle. They call it a "C" clip because it's shapped like a "C". The "C" clip is held inplace by the axle housing.
Once the "C" clip is out, pull the axle out.
Now, you don't really need a press, just a BFH. Support the flange of the axle on a vice or something and beat the old studs out with a BFH.
Then, set the new stud in place and using a sacrificail lug nut, wrench the new stud in place by torquing down the lug nut till the back of the stud is flush against the axle flange.
Reinstall everything ...
On my 96 CMC Firebird, I ground a notch in the brake backing plate so I could just beat the old studs out with removing any of that other stuff.
When I broke a wheel stud on my car, I did not have to remove the axle. To get it out I just used a hammer on the tip of teh stud. When I put th enew one on, I used the lugnut to pull the new stud to the correct position. Take a look at it and see if you can do it without removing anything.
most likely bad torque wrench. thats what happened to me. also use anti seize. i didnt remove the axles. just hit the broken ones out with a hammer. and put the neww ones in and use a lug nut to pull the neww one into position. (you will see what i mean).
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"Ooops ... mistake made ....
I was replacing stock studs with longer ARPs.
Sorry 'bout that ...."
After breaking several stock ones, it's better ( as you already know too well mitchntx ) to go to ARP's anyway.
I was replacing stock studs with longer ARPs.
Sorry 'bout that ...."
After breaking several stock ones, it's better ( as you already know too well mitchntx ) to go to ARP's anyway.
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
Yep I installed longer ones without changing the axles..I'm not sure how it would ever be a problem to do that. Bang out the old ones..slide in the new ones (all through the abs sensor hole) and pull them through with a lug.
