Colonel

This poll is ONLY for those who've actually done it front AND back. I'd like to know how pleased you were with the results.

Colonel

Only one person has done this???

Thanks for your replies! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ October 24, 2002, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

Colonel

So why was it that you were displeased with the results? Did you want a stiffer ride? Thanks!

Colonel

Hey, thanks ALOT for the info!

How much do you think I should cut for a 1" drop? One coil?

What did you use to cut with? Some say a torch is a no-no but I don't have anything else to cut them with.

Do they make any funny noises from the spring not having a flat coil on bottom?

Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

I did it for a couple reasons. Mainly, I had too low of a profile tire up front and the car looked like a boat skimming the water. I had way too much fender gap in the front and even lowering springs wouldn't correct that. So, I had no choice but to cut them to get it where it looked right. I am very pleased with the looks. I dropped it about 2.5 inches in the front. I have about 1.25 inches of clearance both in the front and back and the stance is awesome. I get alot of compliments on it. The ride in the back is just a little more stiff than before which is good in my book so my backseat passengers don't hit my roof when I go over a bump. The front however is much stiffer than stock. Between drastically lowering it as far as I did combined with the low profile tire, it makes for a bumpy ride. I still don't think it would be as bumpy as aftermarket springs WITH the right size profile tire.
When these bastard tires go bald, I am planning on buying a new set of front stock springs. This time I will only cut them down about 1.5 inches. That extra coil and the right tire should provide a comfortable ride. As far as handling, the car is defenitely more responsive. The car is lower so it has a lower center of gravity and it turns alot better. Oh yea, and it's free too. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I would recommend it to anyone who wants way improved looks, without the harsh ride of aft. springs. If you want to road race, legally or not, get a nice set of some G2's.
Stock Ride: 10
Stock Handling: 1
Cut spring Ride: 6
Cut Spring Handling: 5
Aft. Spring Ride: 1
Aft. Spring Handling: 10

<small>[ October 24, 2002, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: SStolen ]</small>

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>Hey, thanks ALOT for the info!

How much do you think I should cut for a 1" drop? One coil?

What did you use to cut with? Some say a torch is a no-no but I don't have anything else to cut them with.

Do they make any funny noises from the spring not having a flat coil on bottom?

Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hacksaw

finalymodded

I too would like to know this. I was considering a set of springs but, if i can do this it'd save alot and i could get other things. did you use a hacksaw? <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

G-LOCK

I did it. 1.5 coils cut off. I would do the fronts again in a heart beat. Exact same ride, no bottoming. Nice.
I would not do the rears again. Good ride, no traction problems, BUT the spring are so short that when you jack the car the spring become unseated. Any large floating type bumps or hills you go over and the springs do the same thing. I never had one come out but sure as hell could hear them clanging around. Very un-nerving. I was always having to reach under and twist them back into position.
This was with 3/4 coil cut off.

supersp0rt

can this be done on the stock springs? front and back?

Sonny

iTrader: (1)

I bought a set of stock (SS) springs for $20....cut 1 coil on the fronts and 3/4 on the backs....also installed set of bilteins at the same time.
The ride quality is pretty good, comparing to G2 springs and stock shocks combo that I replaced.
The ride heights (front & back) are perfect (not too low nor 4x4) for me. I'll post pics when I got a chance.

justin sutton

A diegrinder or bandsaw is the best thing to cut coils with.They dont get the coils to hot which could make one coil weaker than the other.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

1.5 coils is a lot. I have the Hals up front so I left the stock ones alone. I'm going to the get the SS/WS6 rears and cut .5 coil.

Colonel - Herd Adams (long time F-body suspension guru) recommends the following:

tools - Oxy/acetlyene torch or die grinder.

Mark the coil where you want to cut it

Cut it with the available tool (a torch will cut
faster so heat won't won't be a major factor,
especially with acetylene).

Optional step - Heat the coil below the cut, flip
the spring over (upside down on concrete floor) and using your body weight to press on the coil.
This will bend the end coil so it will seat
properly. I say optional because it's intended
primarily for the front because of the rubber
spring seat.

Let air cool and reinstall.

Using a torch is acceptable for this. While prolonged exposure will certainly cause spring fatigue, one quick cut in a concentrated area will not.

Hope this helps.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

The first half-coil of the springs (front and back) are flat.. so if you only cut off the first 1/2 coil then you wouldn't change anything. In the front, cut off 1.5 coils to start. I believe that will drop you a little over an inch, maybe 1.25 inches.
The rears are more 4x4 than the front so I would cut off at least one full coil to start and take off 1/4 at a time after that.
I used a grinder that I bought at home depot for $35 and rented a set of spring compressors from autozone (that I ended up buying cause my g/f wanted me to lower her car too (99 bird). The fronts took me about 6 hours the first time and about 3 hours the second time. The rears take all of a half-hour- very easy.
Tips:
-Only use spring compressors that have safety pins.. and use them!
-Don't waste your energy compressing the spring with a handtool under load. Drop the car with the jack to compress the spring (saved me ALOT of time the second time around.)
-Take your time! This can be VERY dangerous if your not careful!

Good luck, I think you'll like it. And if you don't, screw it. You learned how to work on your suspension and you didn't lose anything but an afternoon. It'll only make installing the aftermarket springs faster. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

BB

iTrader: (7)

I cut a full coil and got about a 1.5 to 2" drop. The chasis engineering book I read that was written by a former TA engineer said to only cut 1/2 coil and that doing that was better than aftermarket springs. The ride was awesome but it was too low for my SLP LT. So I went with SLP Level 1 suspension kit. Which only lowers me about 1 inch. I may have dropped a little more since the springs have settled in. If it wasn't for the SLP LT I would have stayed with the cut stock springs.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

I have lowered all my buddy's cars using cut springs, none have had a problem and I haven't heard any complains from anyone....

Josh