Brembo OEM replacement Rotors ROCK!!
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I just recieved my rotors from Tire Rack ($61 a piece) and bought the Hawk HPS pads with them. All shipped to my house for a little over $200. I put them on last night and broke them in properly. All I have to say is WOW - I driven in cars with $3XXX brake systems and I couldn't really tell the difference between mine and theirs. So if anybody is looking for a great performing pad/rotor combination for a great price check out Tire Rack and go to the braking section. Only bad thing is that you can only get them for the front. Oh well, the rears only use about 20% anyway!!! Just curious if anybody else is as happy as I am about these.
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Just wondering if anybody else has had a good experience with this set-up. Let's hear from ya all!
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#4
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I hve been trying to get the word out on these rotors for a good while on this site. Every time brake rotors get mentioned, I toss out a recommendation for them and then get beat to death with Eradispeed this and that. The baer rotors are great rotors. But, rotors are a wear item (expecially with race compound pads) and I hate to toss out $700 very often. I am running the Brembo oem rotors with Carbotech Panther Plus (Carbotech considers these "race" pads, and they are noisy and a little hard on rotors....vs a stock pad) pads front and rear and I love them. YOu may want to check porterfield brakes for rear rotors. They have a heat treated rotor for race use (non drilled, non slotted) for about $125 each...cheaper than stock. I'm still running my factory rears, but I think I'll have to change them once autocross season starts (I feel a slight warp if I use the emergency brake, but not in the pedal....yet). I've got several thousand street miles on mine with aggressive pads and they are still great. Enjoy.........
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To break them in....
Make 4-6 stops from 30 to 0.
Drive the car a few miles to cool the brakes (ty not to make many stops and don't use them hard during the drive).
Make 2 stops from 30 to 0 and then make 4 stops from 60 to 0 (the brakes will get hot and smoke during this process). Then repeat the cooling cycle.
Then, make 2 stops from 30 to 0 followed by 6 stops from 60 to 0...cool them off one more time and enjoy.
Remember! Hot brakes are subject to fade...be careful....which reminds me of point #2. This should be done under controlled conditions (aka...at the track). It is not terribly wise to heat cycle brakes on a public road. (With that said.....just break them in as outlined above...unless your brake pad manufacturer suggests something else, if so, follow their instructions....it will likely be a similar process). Good luck!
Make 4-6 stops from 30 to 0.
Drive the car a few miles to cool the brakes (ty not to make many stops and don't use them hard during the drive).
Make 2 stops from 30 to 0 and then make 4 stops from 60 to 0 (the brakes will get hot and smoke during this process). Then repeat the cooling cycle.
Then, make 2 stops from 30 to 0 followed by 6 stops from 60 to 0...cool them off one more time and enjoy.
Remember! Hot brakes are subject to fade...be careful....which reminds me of point #2. This should be done under controlled conditions (aka...at the track). It is not terribly wise to heat cycle brakes on a public road. (With that said.....just break them in as outlined above...unless your brake pad manufacturer suggests something else, if so, follow their instructions....it will likely be a similar process). Good luck!
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#8
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If the rotors don't warp or wear quickly, they hvae done their job. Increased stopping performance is going to depend on the pads. Before anyone argues with me, let me explain. All of the high tech brake ducting and 15" rotors in the world won't stop on a race track (or hard street use) with $10 parts store pads. However, a good set of performance pads will stop a car very well (even though some cars have undersized rotors no ducting). If the rotors are terribly small for the amount of heat you are generating, even the best pads won't work for long, but they will work far better than cheap pads. So, yes, the pads are responsible for most of the gains in this case. If you are going racing, upgrade rotor sizes and pads (as well as calipers, etc). Good luck!
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i really need to replace my rotors.my stock ones warped at 7500 miles and the dealer replaced them now with 14000 they are warped again.i was looking at this setup and was wandering if the pads dusted or squealed real bad.i can handle some dust but not the noise.thanks.
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The Carbotech Panther Plus pads make alot of noise and even more dust. I like the way they work, so I live with it...but it is a bit extreme for a daily driver if you like clean wheels and quiet brakes. I've not used the EBC street pads, but friends have recommended them highly (usually on smaller, lighter, and slower cars than an F-body). I'd think the EBC or Hawk street pads (or porterfield has a street compound pad as well....you may go look for them) would be a great increase over stock. Hope that helps.
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Yesterday my rotors came in from KVR. i got them on the sale they had last week. i got the silver coating with the x-drilling.
i havent put them on yet, but they look GREAT!
for pads i went to NAPA and got the CERAMIX pads. they were $82. they do not make them for the rear.
I have used these before on my 94 camaro. what i like about these pads is that you can go for a month and a half without washing your rims, they dust THAT little!
i havent put them on yet, but they look GREAT!
for pads i went to NAPA and got the CERAMIX pads. they were $82. they do not make them for the rear.
I have used these before on my 94 camaro. what i like about these pads is that you can go for a month and a half without washing your rims, they dust THAT little!
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So far I've had no problems with dusting or squeeking. They seems to dust the same amount as the stock ones. But for the price of this combo BREMBO OEM Rotors w/hawk HPS - I really love these over the factory and would recommend them to anybody that dosen't want to spend $$$$