Suspension upgrade- need help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Suspension upgrade- need help I've been searching around all morning for which brands or types of suspension to get. And I came up with Adjustable Panhard Rod and sway bar kit. I couldn't decide to go with Hotchkis or BMR for the panhard bar. The Hotchkis sway Bar Kit seemed better over BMR since its all hollow.
I'm pretty much looking at the difference between BMR and Hotchkis. Are there any other good brands? I've seen Strano, but don't know too much about them. Plus, it didn't say on their website if they are hollow or not (sway bars).
I didn't know what else to get that will reduce body roll. I've heard that strut tower braces don't help too much, that true? Or subframe connectors?
I'm want high quality products, and I'm not worried about price. Any imput would help, thanks.
Mitchell
I'm pretty much looking at the difference between BMR and Hotchkis. Are there any other good brands? I've seen Strano, but don't know too much about them. Plus, it didn't say on their website if they are hollow or not (sway bars).
I didn't know what else to get that will reduce body roll. I've heard that strut tower braces don't help too much, that true? Or subframe connectors?
I'm want high quality products, and I'm not worried about price. Any imput would help, thanks.
Mitchell
read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513475
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513475
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
We all know if you spend a LOT of money, you will be faster. Make sure you get stickers ...
Originally Posted by mitchntx
blah ...
We all know if you spend a LOT of money, you will be faster. Make sure you get stickers ...
We all know if you spend a LOT of money, you will be faster. Make sure you get stickers ...
With my track freak having no stickers, no wonder why i can't get a lap time better than 30 min.
Now I gotta get in touch with all of those manufacturers to get my stickers they were supposed to send me in the first place.
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
CRAP!
With my track freak having no stickers, no wonder why i can't get a lap time better than 30 min.
Now I gotta get in touch with all of those manufacturers to get my stickers they were supposed to send me in the first place.
With my track freak having no stickers, no wonder why i can't get a lap time better than 30 min.
Now I gotta get in touch with all of those manufacturers to get my stickers they were supposed to send me in the first place.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Originally Posted by SOMSS
You should pick up some Sub Frame connectors and a torque arm.
Should I go with a 3-Point subframe connector or regular from UMI.
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify.
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BOSS APPROVED! For the front bar go with a bar sized 35mm to 36.5mm and the rear 22mm. Sam Strano can help you with this. Of course I suggest this parts if you are after handling. Anything else and you are on your own.
Sam's bars are 35mm front and 22mm rear (or is it 21mm? I forget). Either way, they're Addco bars, and yes they're hollow. These cars like a bigger front bar, but you have to be somewhat careful when going bigger on the rear bar. I run the 1LE front bar (32mm), but I'm running the stock rear bar. When I put the front bar on, it dramatically reduced body roll and I really liked the way the car handled. I put the rear bar on and found the car wanted to understeer. At first, I thought it was something I was just not used to, but the more I drove it, the more I wanted to go back to a 32/19 setup. So I did. I've kept the 21mm rear bar in case I ever decide to get a bigger front bar.
Your mileage may vary.
-Mike
Your mileage may vary.
-Mike
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513475
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513475
This is an example that is more than enough for the street.
FWIW, strictly hunting down brand names is one horrible way to modify. If you want to modify, first seek a purpose for the vehicle, then research carefully. Even though certain brands are indeed higher quality than others, it's really down to the engineering of the part, not just qualitative (including but not limited to: the welds on the products, lastibility of internal parts, warranty) but also quantitative (including but not limited to: proper useable overall outer diameter of sway bar, the sway bar weight, damper valving, spring rates).
Originally Posted by Ralls
I've heard that strut tower braces don't help too much, that true? Or subframe connectors?
If you are trying to reduce body roll and have no plans for dedicated drag racing, then you need to concentrate your handling on the more important items such as:
1. Shocks (ones with decent usable valvings)
2. Stabiliser bars (preferably hollow and 35mm front/21 or 22mm rear)
3. tyres (they need to be sticky enough and in good condition)
4. adj. PHB (couldn't hurt to get one, however it depends on whether you're lowered and/or your factory PHB is not within a good length to allow the proper centering of the axle.)
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
If you are trying to reduce body roll and have no plans for dedicated drag racing, then you need to concentrate your handling on the more important items such as:
1. Shocks (ones with decent usable valvings)
2. Stabiliser bars (preferably hollow and 35mm front/21 or 22mm rear)
3. tyres (they need to be sticky enough and in good condition)
4. adj. PHB (couldn't hurt to get one, however it depends on whether you're lowered and/or your factory PHB is not within a good length to allow the proper centering of the axle.)
1. Shocks (ones with decent usable valvings)
2. Stabiliser bars (preferably hollow and 35mm front/21 or 22mm rear)
3. tyres (they need to be sticky enough and in good condition)
4. adj. PHB (couldn't hurt to get one, however it depends on whether you're lowered and/or your factory PHB is not within a good length to allow the proper centering of the axle.)
I want my car to be half-handling half-dragracing. So do you all feel that these are what I'm looking for:
*UMI "On Car" Adjustable Panhard Bar
*Hotchkis (or Strano) Anti-sway bar kit
*Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm (for Longtube headers)
*UMI 3-Point Subframe Connectors
BTW, The only Strano sway bar for LT1's is a rear 22MM
Hang on a second here.
First, my bars are hollow. And while for best handling use I offer the 22mm rear, I also have a hollow 25mm rear as well--should you want that, or deem it necessary.
Everything else comes down to the purpose of the car. I don't think an PHB is a huge necessity right now, but if you want one I'm going to say UMI. I sell more of those than anything, and they are right up the road from me and you can do it all on one order if you like.
The shocks are the key. Might not be easy, but they are what you need most. The issue you'll have with doing other things first is you'll be trying to fix something that is the shock's responsibility, but you'll be using parts that have other effects. When you get shocks, they you could be standing in a place where you don't like the car because you put some other parts on you didn't really need.
Decent shocks start at *less* money than the hollow bars (and mine are less costly than Hotchkis and fwiw I sell those too).
First, my bars are hollow. And while for best handling use I offer the 22mm rear, I also have a hollow 25mm rear as well--should you want that, or deem it necessary.
Everything else comes down to the purpose of the car. I don't think an PHB is a huge necessity right now, but if you want one I'm going to say UMI. I sell more of those than anything, and they are right up the road from me and you can do it all on one order if you like.
The shocks are the key. Might not be easy, but they are what you need most. The issue you'll have with doing other things first is you'll be trying to fix something that is the shock's responsibility, but you'll be using parts that have other effects. When you get shocks, they you could be standing in a place where you don't like the car because you put some other parts on you didn't really need.
Decent shocks start at *less* money than the hollow bars (and mine are less costly than Hotchkis and fwiw I sell those too).
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
All 93-02 cars can use the same bars. There is no difference because your car is an LT1 vs. an LS1.
So yes, we have bars for your car.
So yes, we have bars for your car.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
