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thinking of swiching
thinking of swiching hello all... i have a 2001 ws6 with elbock lowering springs... not sure what type they were on the car when i bought it... thinking of going to some Hotchkis Sport Spring Kit... hear is a link to were i am thinking of geting them from. hotchkis
i have in the near future a set of pacesetter long tube headers and maybe a true duel system... the main reasion that is am going to swich is becouse the inside corner of all my tires were to the wire in like 4 months... would this help or should i just give up on the lowered car and find some stock ws6 springs...
thank you for your time...
i have in the near future a set of pacesetter long tube headers and maybe a true duel system... the main reasion that is am going to swich is becouse the inside corner of all my tires were to the wire in like 4 months... would this help or should i just give up on the lowered car and find some stock ws6 springs...
thank you for your time... A good aligment shop can get it done. Sounds like you need to take it somewhere else.
As for the rear, you really shouldn't have to adjust anything other than the thrust angle. To change the toe, they would have to heat the axle tubes and bend them.
I took mine to a local shop and gave them these specs (shamelessly stolen from Trackbird):
-1.2 Camber
4.7 Caster
0 Toe
They gave me a printout when they were done, showing me where all the specs were.
-Mike
As for the rear, you really shouldn't have to adjust anything other than the thrust angle. To change the toe, they would have to heat the axle tubes and bend them.
I took mine to a local shop and gave them these specs (shamelessly stolen from Trackbird):
-1.2 Camber
4.7 Caster
0 Toe
They gave me a printout when they were done, showing me where all the specs were.
-Mike
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Verdad Gallardo If the rear is off-center, an adjustable panhard bar will help you fix that. If you get a shop that will work with you and you have an adjustable panhard bar, they should be able to get the rearend centered.
As for @nthony, that doesn't sound like a toe problem. If it was a toe problem, the outer (too much toe in) or inner (too much toe out) edge would be worn faster than the rest. The fact that the middle is wearing faster tells me your tire pressure is too high.
-Mike
As for @nthony, that doesn't sound like a toe problem. If it was a toe problem, the outer (too much toe in) or inner (too much toe out) edge would be worn faster than the rest. The fact that the middle is wearing faster tells me your tire pressure is too high.
-Mike
actually the inside part of the wheel in the well is bald, where as 1/2 way through the tire its still very little treaded.
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
If the rear is off-center, an adjustable panhard bar will help you fix that. If you get a shop that will work with you and you have an adjustable panhard bar, they should be able to get the rearend centered.
As for @nthony, that doesn't sound like a toe problem. If it was a toe problem, the outer (too much toe in) or inner (too much toe out) edge would be worn faster than the rest. The fact that the middle is wearing faster tells me your tire pressure is too high.
-Mike
As for @nthony, that doesn't sound like a toe problem. If it was a toe problem, the outer (too much toe in) or inner (too much toe out) edge would be worn faster than the rest. The fact that the middle is wearing faster tells me your tire pressure is too high.
-Mike
Regarding the headers: Catted y-pipe or no? If catted, I recommend getting one custom-made by an exhaust shop with a good reputation. The headers themselves are not a clearance issue, but with that setup, the y-pipe will be (I should know...see sig).
Of course, if you go with true duals, that's another matter. Someone else will have to chime in there.
-Mike
Of course, if you go with true duals, that's another matter. Someone else will have to chime in there.
-Mike