Good beginner's setup?
#1
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From: Lawrenceville, GA
Good beginner's setup?
I am almost done paying off my Camaro, and really want to increase the handling first before anything else. This is not a dedicated drag car, but a daily driver that I want to be able to go fast on the track and through the mountains/road courses (im about 30mins from Road Atlanta).
So here is the setup I had in mind:
1. SLP Bilstein's
2. Eibach Pro-kit
3. Hotchkis sway bars (front and rear)
4. Panhard Rod
5. LCA's w/ relocation brackets (weld or bolt in???)
6. Torque Arm
7. Subframe Connectors (weld or bolt in???)
Is that a decent setup? Thoughts, opinions, and comments are welcome!
So here is the setup I had in mind:
1. SLP Bilstein's
2. Eibach Pro-kit
3. Hotchkis sway bars (front and rear)
4. Panhard Rod
5. LCA's w/ relocation brackets (weld or bolt in???)
6. Torque Arm
7. Subframe Connectors (weld or bolt in???)
Is that a decent setup? Thoughts, opinions, and comments are welcome!
#3
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Call up Sam Strano and talk with him. He'll send you in the right direction.
Sam knows what he's talking about has awesome products.
But as far as what you've listed some are debatle and others will be based on brand and pricing.
#4
#4 is a good idea, *if* you use the right type. Most everything else on the list... I'd mostly likely recommend other things.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#5
Originally Posted by Out1aw
So here is the setup I had in mind:
1. SLP Bilstein's
I'd do HD's before SLP's, and I'm not sure about the new version of them, I might do something else at that point
2. Eibach Pro-kit
depends on what you want to do, there are better choices for performance, but the Pro kit isn't inherently bad/evil
3. Hotchkis sway bars (front and rear)
Do the front only, or a Suspension Techinques front (and save money) or one of Strano's 35mm hollow bars and save money, the rear bar is just "too much" for most applications
4. Panhard Rod
A good idea, there is not a real disadvantage to using a rod/rod style PHB, but there are several choices and many are good
5. LCA's w/ relocation brackets (weld or bolt in???)
not needed on most cars, but can be useful. Many don't have the holes in the right place for handling applications
6. Torque Arm
not absolutely required for handling
7. Subframe Connectors (weld or bolt in???)
Not a bad idea, but many cars do very well without them
Is that a decent setup? Thoughts, opinions, and comments are welcome!
1. SLP Bilstein's
I'd do HD's before SLP's, and I'm not sure about the new version of them, I might do something else at that point
2. Eibach Pro-kit
depends on what you want to do, there are better choices for performance, but the Pro kit isn't inherently bad/evil
3. Hotchkis sway bars (front and rear)
Do the front only, or a Suspension Techinques front (and save money) or one of Strano's 35mm hollow bars and save money, the rear bar is just "too much" for most applications
4. Panhard Rod
A good idea, there is not a real disadvantage to using a rod/rod style PHB, but there are several choices and many are good
5. LCA's w/ relocation brackets (weld or bolt in???)
not needed on most cars, but can be useful. Many don't have the holes in the right place for handling applications
6. Torque Arm
not absolutely required for handling
7. Subframe Connectors (weld or bolt in???)
Not a bad idea, but many cars do very well without them
Is that a decent setup? Thoughts, opinions, and comments are welcome!
#6
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html
This is a pretty decent sticky to reference what you can do AFA modifications are concerned.
This is a pretty decent sticky to reference what you can do AFA modifications are concerned.
#7
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From: Lawrenceville, GA
Originally Posted by trackbird
Added my basic thoughts in bold. We'd need to know more about what you really want out of the car. How low do you want it? Are you concerned about appearance and do you want a specific ride height? Do you have long tube headers (or will you?)? And, a host of other information.
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#8
Originally Posted by Out1aw
I'm not wanting an extreme drop but do want it lowered about 1.5" at the MOST. I will not be running longtubes, but midlengths are on the list with a normal cat-back (no true duals). It will be my daily driver and I want something that can handle extremely well with canyon-carving and road courses, but not on a competition level to where it becomes uncomfortable to go on long trips. It will also need to be a list of parts that are good for a budget build up. Therefor I can't really go with Koni shocks or other various pricey pieces.
How about Koni shocks, and stock springs. You can lower it with Koni shocks about 3/4"
#9
Shocks are the most expensive part of any suspension build up (for performance shocks). They are also the most important. Think of shocks as the cylinder heads of the suspension. They will have the most influence on your results. Poor shock damping will cause a rough ride, too much shock damping will cause a rough ride and I could go on.
You could start with sway bars and an alignment. A 35mm front bar and performance alignment will go a long way in getting you started and aren't too expensive. Then save for shocks (and possibly springs). However, as Foxxtron said, there is a canyon carving sticky that might be just what you need, and it's a bit of a budget oriented build up (as I remember, I might have to go re-read it).
You could start with sway bars and an alignment. A 35mm front bar and performance alignment will go a long way in getting you started and aren't too expensive. Then save for shocks (and possibly springs). However, as Foxxtron said, there is a canyon carving sticky that might be just what you need, and it's a bit of a budget oriented build up (as I remember, I might have to go re-read it).