LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Ok Ill ditch the rotors and rear sway bar as I mentioned and add the shocks.

Now here is the problem. would summit accept returns? for the rear sway bar and rotors? if not then I guess I wasted my money for those

Also were the springs I ordered good ( I will be getting Konis) so bear that in mind

Lastly is any of this going to negatively affect my Drag racing times?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Also I read this thread

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html

and it seems to compliment the rear bar, that is why I ordered it in the first place.

Jon B.

iTrader: (5)

I kept reading 21mm rear bar. Which is pretty much the MAX you want to run on our cars. I have no idea about returning stuff to Summit, but I have heard that they are usually pretty good to deal with on the customer service side of things so you might luck out. If you are going to get Koni SA's, they are going to set you back a good bit of change ($700+). I don't personally have them on my car, but if I were to do it again, they would be there instead of what I have.

What springs did you get? Eibach Pro-Kit? I imagine they should work fine with the Koni's. The stock springs are actually pretty good, if you really wanted to save some cash, you could just utilize the lower spring perch on the Koni's and do the hose mod for the rear springs. Which is what lsx24 used on his car in that thread you looked over. The 1LE springs aren't lowering springs, they are a stock spring with slightly stiffer springs rates.

Last thing I would add since you are trying to get things figured out. If you could successfully get those parts returned, I would add a double rod-ended PHB. Then I would walk away from buying parts and enjoy the car, until you NEED to throw more parts at it. The PHB will keep the rear located in the car better (laterally). So, Blank rotors (brake fluid and pads)/Koni's, and possibly a good PHB.

Oh yeah, you can drag race a road race car, but you can't road race a drag racing car. Your times shouldn't suffer much if any if you're really worried.

Jon

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Damn Returning the PHB for another, the ARP bolts because my pulley doesnt need them, the sway bar kit, for just a front sway bar and the rotors for OEM solid rotors. and then getting shocks. This will be a pain, but I guess thats what Im gonna do.

With all of this verified, I just have to be sure I can return these items.

then Ill get new tires as well.

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I wonder if theyll let me just exchange the PHB for another and the Discs for some Bendix Solid rotors. because they have nothing lese that is solid.

Plus I willbe purchasing Konis, so they better let me do it.

if not who has the best deals here on suspension? Strano?

Jon B.

iTrader: (5)

By deals do you mean cheapest? Because that always isn't the best. Sam deals with UMI and they are great to deal with. I have a UMI PHB and LCAs on my car. Ryan from UMI posts on here and usually says the same things (about Sam Strano). Look at different vendors here if you like, but Sam is the one most of us send people too. Does Summit carry Brembo? I don't have any info on Bendix rotors but most here seem to agree that the Brembo blanks are some of the best you can get.

Jon

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you're on your way. You'll be much safer and happier with that setup. The car will be far more predictable with these changes.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

the best thing to do is talk to Sam Strano himself. he is currently having some family health issues, and may not be able to talk all the time, but best bet is shoot an email asking when is the best time to talk about a setup. he'll help you for free, its not like you HAVE to buy his parts just for advice. he talked to me for an hour, and i didnt spend a dime. yet. but he usually has comparable, if not slightly cheaper, prices as other companies, ie: spohn, hotchkiss, umi, etc. he'll also give you the best advice for your car, since he runs an LS1 camaro in SCCA. instead of getting 5 opinions from 5 diff people, talk to ONE very knowledgable and nice person, and make your judgements/desicions off that. hes very nice and helpful, but youll just have to work around his schedule for a while.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I know I dont want to bother him suring his troubed time. But need advce before the end of 2006, because My track day is Jan 11, and I still need to get the stuff, install them, and get used to them.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I dont mean Absolut cheapest. But cheapest for top quality.

for example, let me just shoot a random number at you.

Koni Shocks Company A: $ 129 each, Company B: $ 135 each, Company C: $119 each.

COmpany C would be the choice.

That is what I mean.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

What if Company B answered the phone and answered questions about set-up not related to the shocks. Company C was an automated answering system, where you have to punch a few buttons to get to some "tech" located in India who reads from cue-cards in broken english.

Company C still the choice? That is what I mean ...

It is obvious to even the casual reader here you are gonna go do what you want to do, regardless of tips and advice ... advice you asked for.

Many of us have traveled this road, doing EXACTLY what you are doing right now ... buying a bunch of stuff based upon internet chatter, not track results.

Which do you think will give you the lower lap times? Seat time in the car or seat time behind a keyboard?

If your experience was anything close to mine, then I figure in 6 months we'll begin seeing some of this stuff in the classified section.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

If you really want to do something, then I'd say do what was said here already....Strano springs, koni SA, pads/solid rotors, maybe a set of slicks to keep wear and tear off your street tires, and call it a day. That's a good building block for any future improvements you may want to do down the road. You don't really HAVE to do anything to the car, other then maintenance/safety things. I would say good pads and new or at least safe rotors can't be wrong. I'd personally get some kind of r-compounds on spare rims, for performance and mostly to save your street tires. The shocks/springs......if you're getting into road racing or just spirited driving, you're probably going to do them anyway, with or without this particular track day, so if you have the time and money, get them now, you won't be disappointed with them. Just do the minimum, and see how you like it. You never know, you could have a terrible time, for whatever reason, and not want to do it again. It'd be better not to sink alot of cash into something before getting your foot in the door.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I see what you mean. But I know summit delivers very soon and they have good customer service, and they have a grand selection, etc...

I took your advice, I dont understand why you are getting offensed. If anything I took your advice the most.

the oil change before and after

brake pads, new rotors and spare in case I crack them

coolant

5 pt harness and Im getting anew seat so I can properly install the harness.

Im getting a new torque arm bushing, because mine is broken

Im getting springs and soon shocks iwll be purchased

also a Panhard bar and front swa bar ( im returning the rear)

I just made a bad choice with the rear sway bar and bad rotors, but Im fixing those.

So YES I am taking everyones advice.

again thanks.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

May I ask what is wrong with the EIbach springs Im getting? ands Im getting Koni shocks to support them, you already knew that though.

tell me more about what you mentioned

R compounds? and slicks?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I wasn't offended. Not in the least.

You are traveling down a road that many of us have been down. That road is buying parts before you really know what the problem is, if any. The car might be a rocket right out of the box and you adding parts based upon no real world data will change that.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Hey man I need your advice again. check my other thread pls

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...19#post6125819

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

Hey man - these guys are giving you great advice. Being one who just completed my second track day event at Road Atlanta, what they are telling you is good stuff. These cars are really beasts on the track I cannot emphasize the braking issue - YOU CAN ONLY GO AS FAST AS YOU CAN SLOW DOWN!!!

One thing they haven't mentioned, I notice you have the M6, and our cars have a hydraulic clutch. Mine overheated on the second day, and it was all I could do to get it back to the pits without having to be towed. You might want to upgrade your clutch fluid to the synthetic stuff you are putting into the brakes. Not familiar with Willow Springs, but if you are shifting alot, it could be an issue. Also, the racing school mechanic suggested wrapping it in some heat protection stuff(?). I will have to research this more before I go back.

BTW - I cannot recommend Sam enough. He knows his stuff and will not sell you more than you need, even though I tried to buy more than I need! I have his sway bars, springs and Konis. It is incredible how my car handles, much better than I can drive. It saved me at least 3 times at Road Atlanta! I am really excited for you. Track days are the best bang for your buck with your car. Enjoy!!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Thanks a lot man! ... ^^^^^^ ... I dont know if Im going to be shifting all that much, but I already have an issue grinding into 3rd. So I dunno what Im gonna do about that. But if it heps I just got my clutch replaced 2 months ago, so my fluid is brand new.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

there's nothing 'wrong' with them, per say. all i know is what Sam told me. i do believe they may drop you more then strano springs, where clearance could be a problem. also, the main thing about them is the spring rate. strano springs run at 550lbs in front, and 150lbs in rear. dont quote me on the prokit springs, but i think they're both softer, quite a bit too soft, acordign to sam. his springs are lighter, stiffer, and really set up better for our particular cars. its what he uses in his own ride, and thats part of how he wins whatever he competes in (SCCA solo I or II or something, check his sig). also, his prices are better then most anything else out there. his chrome moly PHB is $165 or so, plus 15 shipping. Spohn, for example, is $200 for the same bar, plus shipping.

R compounds mean race compound, i think. they're softer, you won't get the same treadlife out of them as a normal tire. but they're stickier on the track. slicks, are slicks.....no tread, all rubber. there are different kinds of R-compounds...ones with some tread, but not much, that you can leave on your car, and drive to and from the track with. you can drive them every day, but will be giving up ALOT in wet weather drivability and longevity. Kumho's Victoracer is one of the R compound tires with tread. personally, i'm getting slicks, and all i do is autox for now. its never a bad choice, it can only help you, and itll save your street tires. from ONE time at autoxing, my stock goodyears went from about 85% tread down to 25% or so. they looked like someone took a belt sander to them. depending on what brands/sizes you get, slicks are sometimes even cheaper then street tires.

you can even look into some weight reduction, while youre at it. lose the back seats, spare, jack, things like that. won't make a huge differance, but since you're getting into this, might as well do something easy, free, and reversable.

if theres anything else, let me know. i'm by all means not an expert, i'm starting at the ground floor myself, but id always want to pass on any advice i can.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Oh thanks.

If slicks are indeed slicks, whats the difference between the slicks on a race track and drag radial ( soft material)?

I already called summit and cancelled my Sway bar, rotor and my belt, bvecause they donts eem to fit. oh and the ARP fasteners.

I dont wanna cancel the springs and PHB as well. lol I feel bad, after ordering all that, cancelling almost everything. However, I would like to know

what the prokit spring rates are and how much stiffer it is from stock.

Ill probably be getting my swaybar from Sam as well as shocks, depending on how fast they can get it to me.