IM ordering
12-21-2006, 04:48 PM
#1
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IM ordering a New Torque arm Bushing ( poly)
Summit crossdrilled and slotted rotors 2 for front + 2 extra
EBC yellow stuff brake pads
2 new serpentine belts
new pulley bolts
hotchkiss PHB
anything else I should get? This is for my track day on Jan 11. Im trying to stock up on what I need.
I think Ws6 store has cheaper panhard rods.
I will be ordering tires from my friend shop
and where should I get a 5 pt harness from? Jegs or Summit?
Summit crossdrilled and slotted rotors 2 for front + 2 extra
EBC yellow stuff brake pads
2 new serpentine belts
new pulley bolts
hotchkiss PHB
anything else I should get? This is for my track day on Jan 11. Im trying to stock up on what I need.
I think Ws6 store has cheaper panhard rods.
I will be ordering tires from my friend shop
and where should I get a 5 pt harness from? Jegs or Summit?
Last edited by LSGunZ28; 12-21-2006 at 05:53 PM.
12-22-2006, 03:10 AM
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Ok here is my order
Part # Item Price Qty Line Total Delete
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AMC-124132 Seat, Super Race, Bolstered, Forward Tilt/Universal Sliders, Suede, Gray/Black, Each $239.95 $239.95
ˇThe part AMC-124132 has an additional shipping charge of $7.00 per item.
ARP-430-6801 Lower Pulley Bolts, Stainless, 12-Point, Chevy, Small/Big Block, Set of 3 $10.99 $10.99
EBC-DP41239R Brake Pads, Yellowstuff KEVLARŽ, Front, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Set $79.95 $79.95
ˇThis part is temporarily out of stock, but you can order it now. Tentative ship date: 1/3/2007, if your order is placed today.
EIB-3831-320 Sway Bars, Front 35mm Diameter, Rear 25mm Diameter, Steel, Red, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $309.95 $309.95
EIB-3870-140 Lowering Kit, Coil, Front and Rear, Black Powdercoated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $249.95 $249.95
ENS-3-1111R Bushing, Torque Arm, Polyurethane, Red, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Each $11.95 $11.95
GTR-4040410 Belt, Gatorback, Poly-V, Serpentine, 4-Rib, 41.00 in. Length, Each $11.69 $23.38
HSS-1501R Panhard Bar, Steel, Red Powdercoated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $125.88 $125.88
SIM-29073BL Harness, Complete, Latch F/X, Individual-Type, Bolt-In, Floor Mount, Blue, Each $99.95 $99.95
SUM-DSEP-55034L Brake Rotor, Cross-Drilled/Slotted, Iron, Natural, Left Front, GM, Passenger Car, Each $59.95 $119.90
SUM-DSEP-55034R Brake Rotor, Cross-Drilled/Slotted, Iron, Natural, Right Front, GM, Passenger Car, Each $59.95 $119.90
Part # Item Price Qty Line Total Delete
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AMC-124132 Seat, Super Race, Bolstered, Forward Tilt/Universal Sliders, Suede, Gray/Black, Each $239.95 $239.95
ˇThe part AMC-124132 has an additional shipping charge of $7.00 per item.
ARP-430-6801 Lower Pulley Bolts, Stainless, 12-Point, Chevy, Small/Big Block, Set of 3 $10.99 $10.99
EBC-DP41239R Brake Pads, Yellowstuff KEVLARŽ, Front, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Set $79.95 $79.95
ˇThis part is temporarily out of stock, but you can order it now. Tentative ship date: 1/3/2007, if your order is placed today.
EIB-3831-320 Sway Bars, Front 35mm Diameter, Rear 25mm Diameter, Steel, Red, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $309.95 $309.95
EIB-3870-140 Lowering Kit, Coil, Front and Rear, Black Powdercoated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $249.95 $249.95
ENS-3-1111R Bushing, Torque Arm, Polyurethane, Red, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Each $11.95 $11.95
GTR-4040410 Belt, Gatorback, Poly-V, Serpentine, 4-Rib, 41.00 in. Length, Each $11.69 $23.38
HSS-1501R Panhard Bar, Steel, Red Powdercoated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Kit $125.88 $125.88
SIM-29073BL Harness, Complete, Latch F/X, Individual-Type, Bolt-In, Floor Mount, Blue, Each $99.95 $99.95
SUM-DSEP-55034L Brake Rotor, Cross-Drilled/Slotted, Iron, Natural, Left Front, GM, Passenger Car, Each $59.95 $119.90
SUM-DSEP-55034R Brake Rotor, Cross-Drilled/Slotted, Iron, Natural, Right Front, GM, Passenger Car, Each $59.95 $119.90
12-22-2006, 04:30 AM
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Just finished
LOL
$ 1400+
Plus I still need shocks and Tires
and Id want to get new pedals, steering wheel, Optima Battery and relocate it to my trunk, Torque arm, my pulley installed with the belt and a tune.
Then D/S and FOrd 9"
Then finally a cam and port my T/B and heads
LOL
$ 1400+
Plus I still need shocks and Tires
and Id want to get new pedals, steering wheel, Optima Battery and relocate it to my trunk, Torque arm, my pulley installed with the belt and a tune.
Then D/S and FOrd 9"
Then finally a cam and port my T/B and heads
12-23-2006, 10:31 AM
#4
Box the drilled rotors up and send them back. While your at it, get rid of that 25mm rear sway bar. It will do it's best to get you hurt on a track. It is TOO MUCH bar for the rear of these cars. A cheap (relative I know) track day isn't cheap if you bend the car.
12-24-2006, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Box the drilled rotors up and send them back. While your at it, get rid of that 25mm rear sway bar. It will do it's best to get you hurt on a track. It is TOO MUCH bar for the rear of these cars. A cheap (relative I know) track day isn't cheap if you bend the car.
whats wrong with the rotors?
and How will I hurt myself with the swaybar?
pls.
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12-24-2006, 10:16 PM
#9
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I am curious to ask why?
whats wrong with the rotors?
and How will I hurt myself with the swaybar?
pls.
whats wrong with the rotors?
and How will I hurt myself with the swaybar?
pls.
On an actual track, there is a good chance that you'll crack those rotors. And, the "cheese grater effect" will often grind through brake pads at a rapid rate.
The 25mm rear sway bar will make the car very loose (tail happy) and greatly increase your chances of spinning it or losing the rear end and hitting another car, a wall, or doing chassis damage while driving it offroad (and usually sideways). I'd not use that bar for anything, but surely not for a track day.
12-24-2006, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by trackbird
On an actual track, there is a good chance that you'll crack those rotors. And, the "cheese grater effect" will often grind through brake pads at a rapid rate.
The 25mm rear sway bar will make the car very loose (tail happy) and greatly increase your chances of spinning it or losing the rear end and hitting another car, a wall, or doing chassis damage while driving it offroad (and usually sideways). I'd not use that bar for anything, but surely not for a track day.
The 25mm rear sway bar will make the car very loose (tail happy) and greatly increase your chances of spinning it or losing the rear end and hitting another car, a wall, or doing chassis damage while driving it offroad (and usually sideways). I'd not use that bar for anything, but surely not for a track day.
Jon
12-25-2006, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon B.
Seeing as how he went ahead and ordered useless stuff against your and people with good reasons to avoid such things advice, I would imagine that little tidbit fell on deaf ears. Like it usually does around here. I don't see how you guys keep it up, I guess it's for the few that do listen I imagine.
Jon
Jon
12-25-2006, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Element
Drilled rotors are prone to cracking, and leave less surface area for heat diffusion after hard breaking. I think they might also shorten the life of the pads, but I'm not sure on that one.
Last edited by LSGunZ28; 12-25-2006 at 02:29 AM.
12-25-2006, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
I really hope you didn't order all that stuff + stock shocks? Call up strano and get the right suspension stuff for your car.
12-25-2006, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by trackbird
On an actual track, there is a good chance that you'll crack those rotors. And, the "cheese grater effect" will often grind through brake pads at a rapid rate.
The 25mm rear sway bar will make the car very loose (tail happy) and greatly increase your chances of spinning it or losing the rear end and hitting another car, a wall, or doing chassis damage while driving it offroad (and usually sideways). I'd not use that bar for anything, but surely not for a track day.
The 25mm rear sway bar will make the car very loose (tail happy) and greatly increase your chances of spinning it or losing the rear end and hitting another car, a wall, or doing chassis damage while driving it offroad (and usually sideways). I'd not use that bar for anything, but surely not for a track day.
12-25-2006, 02:52 AM
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wow the list is mostly useless
car will feel 95% the same after u install all that stuff
next time post a parts list and wait a week before you buy
but hey thanks for sharing the exact prices so we can all know you are a
one thousandnaire
car will feel 95% the same after u install all that stuff
next time post a parts list and wait a week before you buy
but hey thanks for sharing the exact prices so we can all know you are a
one thousandnaire
12-25-2006, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
wow the list is mostly useless
car will feel 95% the same after u install all that stuff
next time post a parts list and wait a week before you buy
but hey thanks for sharing the exact prices so we can all know you are a
one thousandnaire
car will feel 95% the same after u install all that stuff
next time post a parts list and wait a week before you buy
but hey thanks for sharing the exact prices so we can all know you are a
one thousandnaire
Like some people mentioned to forget the rear sway bar and and the drilled rotors. Ill try and swap em to OEM rotors and just not install the rear bar and hopefully het shocks in time.
12-25-2006, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Then WTF is the point of them? I just finished taking a brake and suspension automotive course. The drilled discs are for quicker cooling and the slots are for brake dust and gases to vent off easier.
Jon
