IM ordering
12-27-2006, 12:47 PM
#41
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=42
There it is....
From here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
There it is....
From here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
12-27-2006, 01:53 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Oh, and another thing. If GM's engineers are so good, why do the C5 Z51 and C6 Z06 cars use directionally veined front rotors and then use two left rotors on the car, which spins one backwards and causes the pads on that side to overheat during track use? Some engineers we've got there..... 
Jon
12-27-2006, 02:13 PM
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Damn you guys sneakyWS6 had me convinced that I could not go through any trouble and live with my rotors, but now you un-convinced me again
12-27-2006, 02:25 PM
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But seriously he does have a point, Why do so many High performance Euro cars come with cross drilled and slotted discs? I know they are street cars, but they still stop a hell of a lot better than F bodys, etc. I know that has a lot to do with the oad also, but still. It doesnt make sense. It cant be ONLY for looks and Im just looking for an excuse 
But , although Im sending my summit rotors back, Im still not 100% convinced.
But , although Im sending my summit rotors back, Im still not 100% convinced.
12-27-2006, 02:46 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by trackbird
You just don't want to search..... 
And, if you're too much of a pansy to properly crack those rotors, that's your problem..... 
Ok, I don't know about you, but I don't see many race prepped vehicles on the road. Sure, I see cars from Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Mercedes and others on the road, but they are not race prepped. They are street cars, they might be fast street cars, but they are street cars. When most of those guys go racing, they pull the drilled and slotted rotors off and change to a quality blank (often from Wilwood or Coleman racing and many others).
That's the problem with kids these days, they think everything's a damn race car.....
What you meant to say was:
And why is that?
'Cause this cars fast yo, it has blinging rotors on it. Race cars use those.....
Before you get too hot and bothered, you should know that this battle has been waged around here many times in the past and each time enough tech is provided from the manufacturers of the various brake systems that the cross drilled/slotted train gets derailed. So, don't get too wound up just yet.
I often wonder why I even bother sometimes. In this case, I'll let Baer handle the education for me.....
Now, read everything on this page (there are others from Wilwood and many more that look just like it), you'll save me a lot of typing.
http://www.baer.com/Baer_tech/FAQ.html
However, I have to admit that even Baer is a bit scizophrenic in their tech page. They say pads don't outgas (though they use the disclaimer "on the street") when talking about drilled/slotted rotors, then they say that slots help remove the gasses (that they just said don't exist in normal driving/street use).
The 4th one from the bottom covers most of it though.
Or, PM JasonWW on here, he cracked his drilled rotors on the street while rebedding a set of brake pads. He cracked one rotor in 3 places, each crack running right through the center of a drilled hole. One hole didn't cause a crack, but 3 out of 4 did.
3 out of 4 holes surveyed agreed that they'd crack the disk under those conditions.....
Oh, and another thing. If GM's engineers are so good, why do the C5 Z51 and C6 Z06 cars use directionally veined front rotors and then use two left rotors on the car, which spins one backwards and causes the pads on that side to overheat during track use? Some engineers we've got there.....
And, if you're too much of a pansy to properly crack those rotors, that's your problem..... Ok, I don't know about you, but I don't see many race prepped vehicles on the road. Sure, I see cars from Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Mercedes and others on the road, but they are not race prepped. They are street cars, they might be fast street cars, but they are street cars. When most of those guys go racing, they pull the drilled and slotted rotors off and change to a quality blank (often from Wilwood or Coleman racing and many others).
That's the problem with kids these days, they think everything's a damn race car.....
What you meant to say was:
And why is that?
'Cause this cars fast yo, it has blinging rotors on it. Race cars use those.....
Before you get too hot and bothered, you should know that this battle has been waged around here many times in the past and each time enough tech is provided from the manufacturers of the various brake systems that the cross drilled/slotted train gets derailed. So, don't get too wound up just yet.
I often wonder why I even bother sometimes. In this case, I'll let Baer handle the education for me.....
Now, read everything on this page (there are others from Wilwood and many more that look just like it), you'll save me a lot of typing.
http://www.baer.com/Baer_tech/FAQ.html
However, I have to admit that even Baer is a bit scizophrenic in their tech page. They say pads don't outgas (though they use the disclaimer "on the street") when talking about drilled/slotted rotors, then they say that slots help remove the gasses (that they just said don't exist in normal driving/street use).
The 4th one from the bottom covers most of it though.
Or, PM JasonWW on here, he cracked his drilled rotors on the street while rebedding a set of brake pads. He cracked one rotor in 3 places, each crack running right through the center of a drilled hole. One hole didn't cause a crack, but 3 out of 4 did.
3 out of 4 holes surveyed agreed that they'd crack the disk under those conditions.....
Oh, and another thing. If GM's engineers are so good, why do the C5 Z51 and C6 Z06 cars use directionally veined front rotors and then use two left rotors on the car, which spins one backwards and causes the pads on that side to overheat during track use? Some engineers we've got there.....
Listen here Jr...I for one am not a "Kid", my wife may agree with you as I have way too many expensive toys but being 32 I think got me out of the "kid" and "fast yo" crap a long time ago.
If you want to call someone a pansy go ahead, it really makes your points oh soo much more valuable to me. It shows me who the real child is in this situation. I drive my car hard enough when I need to and like I said still have only cracked one rotor in one spot and as I said it had no effect on stopping power or when it was turned as you could not hear the lathe catch the edge when it was turning.
I really think you just want to argue, but they is ok if that is your porogative, but so is being a ***** like you are demonstrating in front of everyone right now.
If any company not just GM made such a great product we would not have cars going to the dealer for pistons slap, or FORDs catching on fire because of the cruise controls systems or GM's blowing out rearends and or trannies.
Just as any other company their goal is to make money, they make a car with products that work fine for the street including rotors that are drilled and or are directional and left/right side dependant.
Dont give someone crappy advice and tell them they can go to the local auto parts store and get blanks that are just fine, there are just as many posts on warped blanks for Autozone and any other parts retailer as there are of people having cracked rotors.
Like I said, I would much rather deal with a cracked rotor and know it is not going to warp 3 times in under 10,000 miles and know I can stop my vehicle than to run a set of blanks and have to pull them ever 5000 miles to turn thema dn then have to use the warranty every 3 months replacing them as they are under spec and can not be turned again.
My time is way to valuable to have to pull wheels every three months to mess with that crap. I did it with the stock rotors and OEM replacements and that was enough for me.
Why dont you act like and adult and not some internet punk?
12-27-2006, 03:36 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
Listen here Jr...I for one am not a "Kid", my wife may agree with you as I have way too many expensive toys but being 32 I think got me out of the "kid" and "fast yo" crap a long time ago.
Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
If you want to call someone a pansy go ahead, it really makes your points oh soo much more valuable to me. It shows me who the real child is in this situation. I drive my car hard enough when I need to and like I said still have only cracked one rotor in one spot and as I said it had no effect on stopping power or when it was turned as you could not hear the lathe catch the edge when it was turning.
Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
Just as any other company their goal is to make money, they make a car with products that work fine for the street including rotors that are drilled and or are directional and left/right side dependant.
Dont give someone crappy advice and tell them they can go to the local auto parts store and get blanks that are just fine, there are just as many posts on warped blanks for Autozone and any other parts retailer as there are of people having cracked rotors.
Like I said, I would much rather deal with a cracked rotor and know it is not going to warp 3 times in under 10,000 miles and know I can stop my vehicle than to run a set of blanks and have to pull them ever 5000 miles to turn thema dn then have to use the warranty every 3 months replacing them as they are under spec and can not be turned again.
Dont give someone crappy advice and tell them they can go to the local auto parts store and get blanks that are just fine, there are just as many posts on warped blanks for Autozone and any other parts retailer as there are of people having cracked rotors.
Like I said, I would much rather deal with a cracked rotor and know it is not going to warp 3 times in under 10,000 miles and know I can stop my vehicle than to run a set of blanks and have to pull them ever 5000 miles to turn thema dn then have to use the warranty every 3 months replacing them as they are under spec and can not be turned again.
So, in this case, you seem to be giving the crappy advice. We, who have done these things and learned the hard way, are just trying to save this man some money and frustration and lessen his risk of bending the car.
Also, you said you turned the stock rotors. We all know they are not good when they are new. You don't mention that you ever used Autozone or Brembo blanks, so how could you possibly know if they will warp just like your stock ones? If you give some of the guys around here a rubber hammer, they can break anything if given enough time. It's hard to say how those rotors were treated that the posts were complaining about. Also, turning warped rotors typically just aggrivates the problem by leaving the facings uneven (in thickness) and more prone to warping. I'm amazed you made it as far as you did between having to turn your stock rotors. They aren't any good when new, and get worse after being turned.
Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
My time is way to valuable to have to pull wheels every three months to mess with that crap. I did it with the stock rotors and OEM replacements and that was enough for me.
Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
...but so is being a ***** like you are demonstrating in front of everyone right now.
Why dont you act like and adult and not some internet punk?
Why dont you act like and adult and not some internet punk?
Now, I provided tech with my statements, all you did was get mad. Scurry along and find me some tech to back up your statements and it has to be from decent sources and not the vendors selling drilled rotors. I'm talking about brake companies and such (like the Baer page). Once you do that, if you can prove your point well enough, I'll admit that I'm a *****.
By the way, I drove my car hard enough to win a regional SCCA Solo II championship in it. There are faster guys here, but my car does get run on occasion....
Have a nice day!
12-27-2006, 06:29 PM
#51
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Ok guys, so now reading what trackbird said, I should just use blanks for the event and then keep a pair of the cross drilled for street? since it isnt so ba don the street, why not? right?
12-27-2006, 06:40 PM
#52
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
Ok guys, so now reading what trackbird said, I should just use blanks for the event and then keep a pair of the cross drilled for street? since it isnt so ba don the street, why not? right?
12-27-2006, 06:41 PM
#53
You gotta realize that owners of GT3s, Enzos, even C6 Z06s don't order rotors from Summit. While Summitt can offer you rotors that emulate or mimmick what the "big boys" have, they certainly don't perform the same.
It's kind of like hooking a CO2 fire extinguisher to some copper line that exits under the cowling. If you pull the handle on the fire extinguisher it will appear that you are purging nawz. But in reality, it just isn't the same.
Look, there is a Brake FAQ in the stickied section of this forum. It's a good read and very informative.
About every two months we get this same kind of argument. It has been gone over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over time and time again.
It's kind of like hooking a CO2 fire extinguisher to some copper line that exits under the cowling. If you pull the handle on the fire extinguisher it will appear that you are purging nawz. But in reality, it just isn't the same.
Look, there is a Brake FAQ in the stickied section of this forum. It's a good read and very informative.
About every two months we get this same kind of argument. It has been gone over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over time and time again.
12-27-2006, 09:44 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Now, I provided tech with my statements, all you did was get mad. Scurry along and find me some tech to back up your statements and it has to be from decent sources and not the vendors selling drilled rotors. I'm talking about brake companies and such (like the Baer page). Once you do that, if you can prove your point well enough, I'll admit that I'm a *****.
Jon
12-27-2006, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
You gotta realize that owners of GT3s, Enzos, even C6 Z06s don't order rotors from Summit. While Summitt can offer you rotors that emulate or mimmick what the "big boys" have, they certainly don't perform the same.
It's kind of like hooking a CO2 fire extinguisher to some copper line that exits under the cowling. If you pull the handle on the fire extinguisher it will appear that you are purging nawz. But in reality, it just isn't the same.
Look, there is a Brake FAQ in the stickied section of this forum. It's a good read and very informative.
About every two months we get this same kind of argument. It has been gone over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over time and time again.
It's kind of like hooking a CO2 fire extinguisher to some copper line that exits under the cowling. If you pull the handle on the fire extinguisher it will appear that you are purging nawz. But in reality, it just isn't the same.
Look, there is a Brake FAQ in the stickied section of this forum. It's a good read and very informative.
About every two months we get this same kind of argument. It has been gone over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over time and time again.
My PHB and Springs just came. I am gonna return the springs
Im also gonna return the sway bar and get some from Strano.
Last edited by LSGunZ28; 12-28-2006 at 12:12 AM.
12-28-2006, 09:29 AM
#57
Originally Posted by mitchntx
About every two months we get this same kind of argument. It has been gone over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over time and time again.
12-29-2006, 09:06 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by Sneakyws6
Listen here Jr...I for one am not a "Kid", my wife may agree with you as I have way too many expensive toys but being 32 I think got me out of the "kid" and "fast yo" crap a long time ago.
If you want to call someone a pansy go ahead, it really makes your points oh soo much more valuable to me. It shows me who the real child is in this situation. I drive my car hard enough when I need to and like I said still have only cracked one rotor in one spot and as I said it had no effect on stopping power or when it was turned as you could not hear the lathe catch the edge when it was turning.
I really think you just want to argue, but they is ok if that is your porogative, but so is being a ***** like you are demonstrating in front of everyone right now.
If any company not just GM made such a great product we would not have cars going to the dealer for pistons slap, or FORDs catching on fire because of the cruise controls systems or GM's blowing out rearends and or trannies.
Just as any other company their goal is to make money, they make a car with products that work fine for the street including rotors that are drilled and or are directional and left/right side dependant.
Dont give someone crappy advice and tell them they can go to the local auto parts store and get blanks that are just fine, there are just as many posts on warped blanks for Autozone and any other parts retailer as there are of people having cracked rotors.
Like I said, I would much rather deal with a cracked rotor and know it is not going to warp 3 times in under 10,000 miles and know I can stop my vehicle than to run a set of blanks and have to pull them ever 5000 miles to turn thema dn then have to use the warranty every 3 months replacing them as they are under spec and can not be turned again.
My time is way to valuable to have to pull wheels every three months to mess with that crap. I did it with the stock rotors and OEM replacements and that was enough for me.
Why dont you act like and adult and not some internet punk?
If you want to call someone a pansy go ahead, it really makes your points oh soo much more valuable to me. It shows me who the real child is in this situation. I drive my car hard enough when I need to and like I said still have only cracked one rotor in one spot and as I said it had no effect on stopping power or when it was turned as you could not hear the lathe catch the edge when it was turning.
I really think you just want to argue, but they is ok if that is your porogative, but so is being a ***** like you are demonstrating in front of everyone right now.
If any company not just GM made such a great product we would not have cars going to the dealer for pistons slap, or FORDs catching on fire because of the cruise controls systems or GM's blowing out rearends and or trannies.
Just as any other company their goal is to make money, they make a car with products that work fine for the street including rotors that are drilled and or are directional and left/right side dependant.
Dont give someone crappy advice and tell them they can go to the local auto parts store and get blanks that are just fine, there are just as many posts on warped blanks for Autozone and any other parts retailer as there are of people having cracked rotors.
Like I said, I would much rather deal with a cracked rotor and know it is not going to warp 3 times in under 10,000 miles and know I can stop my vehicle than to run a set of blanks and have to pull them ever 5000 miles to turn thema dn then have to use the warranty every 3 months replacing them as they are under spec and can not be turned again.
My time is way to valuable to have to pull wheels every three months to mess with that crap. I did it with the stock rotors and OEM replacements and that was enough for me.
Why dont you act like and adult and not some internet punk?
This whole post just strikes me as funny, but I'm not really sure why...
12-29-2006, 09:09 PM
#59
I stopped responding to him when he said this ...
It's obvious he doesn't have a clue ...
My time is way to valuable to have to pull wheels every three months to mess with that crap. I did it with the stock rotors and OEM replacements and that was enough for me.
12-29-2006, 09:21 PM
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If you have such a better clue why dont you show me then...
I have worked on cars just as long if not longer than some of the members have been alive and or driving depending on thier age. You are not showing me anything at all. This is my third F-body and i on average own them for 5 or more years before I move onto the next one.
I never had rotors on my 89 Formula 350 ever warp in as little time as the ones on the 2001 Formula did. Then the dealer replaced all 4 of them with brand new ones at less than 5000 miles just to have the new ones do it again under 10,000 miles.
Hmm, then did like everyone said and used some of the Autozone blanks and they were not any better.
Once please "show" and or "educate" me cause it seems I must be slow compaired to all of the more knowledgable ones on here that believe everything they hear and or read on the net.
Proof proven fact and you can say what you want, I have had way less issues with the drilled rotors on this car than I ever had with the blanks. I have not changed my driving style or anything else that can be atributed to the fact that the drilled rotors have not warped.
Now maybe if someone wants to spend alot more money for thicker blanks that Brembr offers but why? I only spent $250 on the complete set of the powerstop drilled rotors 3 years ago well before anyone was getting on the web telling people that drilled rotors are soo bad.
So please educate me and give me a clue ol mitchie poo...
I have worked on cars just as long if not longer than some of the members have been alive and or driving depending on thier age. You are not showing me anything at all. This is my third F-body and i on average own them for 5 or more years before I move onto the next one.
I never had rotors on my 89 Formula 350 ever warp in as little time as the ones on the 2001 Formula did. Then the dealer replaced all 4 of them with brand new ones at less than 5000 miles just to have the new ones do it again under 10,000 miles.
Hmm, then did like everyone said and used some of the Autozone blanks and they were not any better.
Once please "show" and or "educate" me cause it seems I must be slow compaired to all of the more knowledgable ones on here that believe everything they hear and or read on the net.
Proof proven fact and you can say what you want, I have had way less issues with the drilled rotors on this car than I ever had with the blanks. I have not changed my driving style or anything else that can be atributed to the fact that the drilled rotors have not warped.
Now maybe if someone wants to spend alot more money for thicker blanks that Brembr offers but why? I only spent $250 on the complete set of the powerstop drilled rotors 3 years ago well before anyone was getting on the web telling people that drilled rotors are soo bad.
So please educate me and give me a clue ol mitchie poo...