Lowering springs + stock shocks will make the car handle worse....

 

I am also getting Bilsteain HD or Koni. I didnt hear great things about the Bilsten HD, because they didnt have enough settings or something, SO I may go Konis. Because Summit seems to have the best deals and they Only have Bilstein HDs for my car (2002 Z28)

Should I get all 4 shocks or just front or rear or what?

 

call sam strano, he will tell u EVERYTHING you need to know. BTW go with koni sa's...

 

I will, lets give the guy a couple of days though.

 

Is the stocker broken?

Is this a NOPI sponsored event?

Autozone sells blanks for $23 each

EBC? I would stick with a known brand with proven track related results like Porterfield, Carbotech or Hawk. Unless you just like doing your own R&D at your own expense ...

Nothing wrong with a spare. put a new one on and keep teh old one as the spare.



You have tire rub issues?

I don't see fresh coolant, fresh brake fluid, new fuel filter ... all stuff that will make your car RELIABLE. all those go-fast parts don't help much on the trailer.

Either. Make for DAMN sure you install them correctly.

 

Good Advice mitchntx , for everybody. The guys excited that he gets to hop up his fbody, I think we are all that way once in a while. I know I've bought stuff on a whim for no apparent reason! lol
Maintenance should be first on everybody's list, and use good oil and stuff, not walmart brand

 

... I laughed pretty hard at that. Thanks Mitch.

Jon

 

Blanks! Brembo, or some other quality OE BLANK replacement.

Jon

 

The holes were useful back when track pads had severe off-gassing. The holes allowed the gas a place to exit, so it didn't build a buffer between the pads and the rotors, causing poor braking. As pads now are much better at not off-gassing, holes are more for looks than anything.

As far as heat diffussion, you've got less surface area, which means less area ti disspiate heat.

 

What a LOT of F-Car owners seem to lose focus on is that this "event" is made up of 6 or 8 sessions lasting 20 minutes or more, not 20 sessions lasting 1- =12 seconds each.

 

Fresh coolant and brakre fluid and oil and oil filter will all be included. I just didnt mention it.

Panhard bar will help keep my axle centered at high G turns from what I understand, and I drag race a lot as well, I think it will help.

My torque arm bushing is broken yes.

I bought the APR bolts without dong much research, those will be returned.

EBC is a decent brand, from what I hear. So I will go with them. an Upgrade over stock.

I have the Redstuff brakes and they work better than stock, the yellowstuff should even do better.

Thanks for your concern.

 

so should I just get Autzone blanks? or are they gonna suck?

 

Yes they will suck. They will probably warp and/or crack. all of them will eventually.

But throwing away $30 is a bit easier to swallow than throwing away $60.

 

True.

Anyways here is the plan. I have the order form right in front of me.

Return: Summit 4 discs ( which look quite nice for $60) total $240
ARP bolts $ 11
Swaybar kit $ 310

wha I will purchase :

Coolant change
Diff service
Oil change ( before)
oil change (after)
new rotors and installing yellowstuff brakepads

I will talk with Strano and order:
-Front sway bar
- Koni Shocks

Install Eibach pro kit springs
Install race seat and 5 pt harness
install torque arm bushing
install Pulley and new belt

I will also get an alignment

Spare:
Belt
oil
brake fluid
rotors
(used) pads


Tell me if Im missing anything.

 

Also the Goodyear belts I ordered part # 4040410

Matches my application

LS based engine 1998 - 2002 Camaro both Z28 and SS

so basically LS1 for F body, but physically the belt looks small like 32 inches all around or so. Shouldnt it be bigger?

the part numbes match, but the belt itself, just looks like it aint gonna fit.

oh and yes is with AC.

 

It is really funny when people say that drilled rotors are soo bad but yet every supercar on the planet, plus the Z51, Z06 vette comes with them from the factory.

Hmmm, seems that the engineers at GM seem to think that drilled rotors do better than non drilled rotors.

I had my first set of stock rotors turned at 5000 miles, no hard driving just regular stop and go, then again at 20,000 miles and then again at 30,xxx miles. After that I replaced them with Power Stop drilled rotors. My car now has 78,xxx miles on it with no problems. One of the local guys go to our local road racing track and runs these rotos with zero issues with cracking or warping.

I am just now getting ready to turn mine after 35,xxx+ plus miles when I adjust my E-brake this weekend. In that many miles with one 1/4 mile track day I have only 1 crack in one of my front rotors. It does nothing to the rotor at all and can not be felt. I talked to Brembro and Power Stop about the crack and they both said the same thing. The crack is more of a appearence issue than anything else as long as the crack(s) are not in the same location on the inside and outside of the rotor.

All pads outgas not matter what. Heat is the outgassing and with the drilled rotor the heat is allowed to escape into the center of the rotor where the vanes help to dissipate the heat and direct it away from the rotors.

I have heard nothing good about anyones blank rotors from Autozone, Oriellys, or Advance. They all for the most part use the same companies blanks and they are all cheap. Expect to replace them or turn them if they even have enough material to turn them as they are not that great.

you are right though $30 is better than $60, but what good is the $30 rotor if you are having to spend time every 3 months or so turning them, warrantying them out or replacing them cause they warp to easy.

If it was me I would just install the rotors, they will be fine. Replace the pads with a good quality pad which it seems EBC is as they make my Bike pads as well and then flush the system out with Motul 5.1, not DOT 5 brake fluid. This is a compatitable fluid that will blend with DOT 3 and 4 just fine as it is what we use with out bikes, downside is it will be somewhat costly to do a car. This fluid has a higher boiling point and works just fine with the system.

Then I would do a once over on the car, change the oil and check the coolant and make sure all fluid connections are tight and not leaking and then most of all...

Have fun...

 

GM's marketing people are counting on gullible people like you who will make that arguement to themselves.

 

<sigh>

 

I dont need to search, I have used drilled rotors for years now, and so does just about every race prepped road racing vehicle on the road.

But if you think it is GM's marketing then why does

Porsche
Ferrari
Lamborgini
Mclarean

and any of the other super car makers use them, oh I forgot it is their marketing team trying to lure in gulliable people.

yes drilled rotors may crack, but blanks will warp. So what it the advantage again? A cracked rotor does not harm performance, but a badly warped rotor is a safety issue that can and will cause a wreck.

Care to retort now...

 

You just don't want to search..... And, if you're too much of a pansy to properly crack those rotors, that's your problem.....

Ok, I don't know about you, but I don't see many race prepped vehicles on the road. Sure, I see cars from Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Mercedes and others on the road, but they are not race prepped. They are street cars, they might be fast street cars, but they are street cars. When most of those guys go racing, they pull the drilled and slotted rotors off and change to a quality blank (often from Wilwood or Coleman racing and many others).

That's the problem with kids these days, they think everything's a damn race car.....

What you meant to say was:

And why is that?

'Cause this cars fast yo, it has blinging rotors on it. Race cars use those.....

Before you get too hot and bothered, you should know that this battle has been waged around here many times in the past and each time enough tech is provided from the manufacturers of the various brake systems that the cross drilled/slotted train gets derailed. So, don't get too wound up just yet.

I often wonder why I even bother sometimes. In this case, I'll let Baer handle the education for me.....

Now, read everything on this page (there are others from Wilwood and many more that look just like it), you'll save me a lot of typing.

http://www.baer.com/Baer_tech/FAQ.html

However, I have to admit that even Baer is a bit scizophrenic in their tech page. They say pads don't outgas (though they use the disclaimer "on the street") when talking about drilled/slotted rotors, then they say that slots help remove the gasses (that they just said don't exist in normal driving/street use).

The 4th one from the bottom covers most of it though.

Or, PM JasonWW on here, he cracked his drilled rotors on the street while rebedding a set of brake pads. He cracked one rotor in 3 places, each crack running right through the center of a drilled hole. One hole didn't cause a crack, but 3 out of 4 did.

3 out of 4 holes surveyed agreed that they'd crack the disk under those conditions.....

Oh, and another thing. If GM's engineers are so good, why do the C5 Z51 and C6 Z06 cars use directionally veined front rotors and then use two left rotors on the car, which spins one backwards and causes the pads on that side to overheat during track use? Some engineers we've got there.....