View Poll Results: boxed or tubular lca's
boxed
34
37.36%
tubular
57
62.64%
Voters: 91. You may not vote on this poll
POLL boxed or tubular LCA's
11-29-2006, 01:51 PM
#3
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I doubt any style works better than another for
the strip - when things go normally - except that
the non-boxed stockers are flexible somewhat.
But I just can't get to liking the idea that the
rear is held to the car by four saddle pipe welds,
as you'll see on all of the tubular plain-bushing
designs. This kind of weld is where you see the
aftermarket K-members break, welds are only
as good as the welder and can't be trusted to
be as strong as the parent metal without
aerospace type process inspections ($$$).
At least the boxed type I've seen have the
bushing sleeve fully captive, through the arm
piece, so the welds are entirely non-critical.
A fully rod-end piece just depends on the thread
and the ability of the parent tube not to strip.
That's a better bet than saddle welds in my
book as long as enough threads are engaged.
the strip - when things go normally - except that
the non-boxed stockers are flexible somewhat.
But I just can't get to liking the idea that the
rear is held to the car by four saddle pipe welds,
as you'll see on all of the tubular plain-bushing
designs. This kind of weld is where you see the
aftermarket K-members break, welds are only
as good as the welder and can't be trusted to
be as strong as the parent metal without
aerospace type process inspections ($$$).
At least the boxed type I've seen have the
bushing sleeve fully captive, through the arm
piece, so the welds are entirely non-critical.
A fully rod-end piece just depends on the thread
and the ability of the parent tube not to strip.
That's a better bet than saddle welds in my
book as long as enough threads are engaged.
11-29-2006, 10:02 PM
#4
I spoke with a tech at BMR when i was trying to decide this and he said it makes no difference. I've seen this said plenty of times, so i would just go with the ones for the best price (tubular from what i've seen)
11-30-2006, 07:39 AM
#7
Hello,
Either one will be fine and I always recommend just to go with the tubular set-up. The tubular set-ups will be lighter and in most cases take up less room. All our control arms are TIG welded rather then MIG welded, this insures proper penetration for a superior weld.
If you have any questions please ask and I will be glad to help.
Thank you!
Ryan
Either one will be fine and I always recommend just to go with the tubular set-up. The tubular set-ups will be lighter and in most cases take up less room. All our control arms are TIG welded rather then MIG welded, this insures proper penetration for a superior weld.
If you have any questions please ask and I will be glad to help.
Thank you!
Ryan
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12-02-2006, 05:19 PM
#10
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on the drag strip, subframes don't help at all. What they do help with is torsional twisting of the frame from side to side while in a sharp sudden turn. There shouldn't ever be a side to side movement on the drag strip and if there is, you have more things to worry about.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
12-02-2006, 05:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Divergent Lightning
on the drag strip, subframes don't help at all. What they do help with is torsional twisting of the frame from side to side while in a sharp sudden turn. There shouldn't ever be a side to side movement on the drag strip and if there is, you have more things to worry about.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
Thanks,
Ryan
i dont know too many drag guys that dont have some sort of frame support
01-24-2007, 12:19 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Divergent Lightning
on the drag strip, subframes don't help at all. What they do help with is torsional twisting of the frame from side to side while in a sharp sudden turn. There shouldn't ever be a side to side movement on the drag strip and if there is, you have more things to worry about.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
01-25-2007, 01:49 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by 02_CamaroSS
I spoke with a tech at BMR when i was trying to decide this and he said it makes no difference. I've seen this said plenty of times, so i would just go with the ones for the best price (tubular from what i've seen)
The website says boxed is a little better...
01-29-2007, 04:32 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Ericbigmac83
What do subframe connectors have to do with boxed or tubular lower control arms??
02-12-2007, 05:13 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by Divergent Lightning
on the drag strip, subframes don't help at all. What they do help with is torsional twisting of the frame from side to side while in a sharp sudden turn. There shouldn't ever be a side to side movement on the drag strip and if there is, you have more things to worry about.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
If your car is going to be a strip car then don't bother with the subframe connectors.
Anything that can stop the car from wasting energy twisting the frame in any way shape or form (especially) sideways......and allow that energy to do what it is intended to do, which is propel the car forward............in my mind is not a waste of time.
All that twisting and flexing is needless and wasted energy and motion. Stopping that or reducing that will help plant the car in a straight line. That is what subframe connectors do.
But I am with everyone else......what is with the topic change, especially one that has us talking about something so elementary as "are subframes connectors good for straight line racing"
03-16-2007, 11:26 PM
#20
All of the forces the rear LCA sees are inline with the shaft, and tubular is perfect for this. Boxed LCA's are just extra weight.
FWIW, I <3 my LG aluminum LCA's with aluminum rod-ends.
FWIW, I <3 my LG aluminum LCA's with aluminum rod-ends.