bmw (e46) m3 vs 2001 ws6 t/a on a track
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bmw (e46) m3 vs 2001 ws6 t/a on a track
does anyone have video or seen this because my friend who has a bmw swears that a t/a cant beet a m3. i just want to prove him wrong
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Too many variables to consider; but stock for stock with equal drivers the BMW might have the upper hand. Modded, and/or difference in driving abilities will change the outcome
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http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/album...BMW_mv1_hr.wmv
From inside my fully laden 98 Trans AM ...
stock LS1, LS6 intake, G2 springs and suspension, Bilstein HDs, ST 35 front bar, V700 tires, C5 brakes ...
Don't misunderstand ... an M series is a very fast car and very easy to drive. An adequate driver can be very, very fast in one. A great driver would be very hard to beat.
From inside my fully laden 98 Trans AM ...
stock LS1, LS6 intake, G2 springs and suspension, Bilstein HDs, ST 35 front bar, V700 tires, C5 brakes ...
Don't misunderstand ... an M series is a very fast car and very easy to drive. An adequate driver can be very, very fast in one. A great driver would be very hard to beat.
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And, it'll depend on the track. Lot's of twisties - bye-bye TA. Big straights - bye-bye BMW (maybe). I'd concur - if you control every other variable (driver, modifications, track, tires, etc.), I'd put my money on the BMW.
Also, if it's the first track day for both drivers, I'd bet my house on the BMW. I swear that a blind slug can drive that car at 9/10 what I can drive my car!
Also, if it's the first track day for both drivers, I'd bet my house on the BMW. I swear that a blind slug can drive that car at 9/10 what I can drive my car!
#7
I was at Road Atlanta this weekend. There was probably 3 or 4 M3s. On the straights, I got everyone. I even have a video of me passing an m5? coming out of turn 12 and going down the front stretch. If you want, I will try to post it for you. But again, no long straights would not be a good thing for TA.
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#9
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Originally Posted by slick1851
But can a fbody be made to keep up or be as eqaul to a mildly modded M3? In the turns?
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However 2900 lbs. and poor weight distribution can punish handling and braking performance compared to a sightly heavier car with better weight distribution. PMOI is another factor in dealing with the weight and masses, not to forget torsional rigidity.
Don't get me wrong, it's a great idea to rid the vehicle of anything that doesn't serve a much function for a track vehicle, however it's the placement and design of modifications during construction where this is most optimal.
Don't get me wrong, it's a great idea to rid the vehicle of anything that doesn't serve a much function for a track vehicle, however it's the placement and design of modifications during construction where this is most optimal.
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Foxx ... EXCELLENT point. I finally have my car at 1580 front and 1430 rear, dry.
I have just replaced my heavy *** seat and moved it back 2", towards the center, ~1" and lowered it 2". I've also removed some seam filler, some sound deadening mat and a side impact beam from the driver's door. So, we'll see what the scales read early next year.
I have just replaced my heavy *** seat and moved it back 2", towards the center, ~1" and lowered it 2". I've also removed some seam filler, some sound deadening mat and a side impact beam from the driver's door. So, we'll see what the scales read early next year.
#14
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BMW's cost a lot more than T/A's, so I bet if you spent the difference in cost on engine mods and handling you should take him.
Not too sure of prices, New T/A $34K new M5, jeese, wow , just looked up the cost of an M5, around $115. Okay now lets spend the difference of cost on modification for the T/A we have $80K to play with........
Not too sure of prices, New T/A $34K new M5, jeese, wow , just looked up the cost of an M5, around $115. Okay now lets spend the difference of cost on modification for the T/A we have $80K to play with........
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i thought the time difference between a ws6 and a m3 was 1 sec on a track.so if i upgrade to koni 4/4 and all strano parts for suspension shouldnt i be able to take him in corners and on the track.
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FYI, once you start modding, I'd say all bets are off. Way too many variables. What parts are being modded? What brand? Who's doing the work? Is that mod good for your driving style? Etc. Just too much.
I will make a blanket statement, though. An M3 is easier to drive at 98% than an F-body. In other words, it requires less skill to drive an M3 to a certain (mediocre) time on a track than an F-body.
(I'm not saying M drivers are less skilled, though. Sort of like, it takes less effort to turn an oiled bolt than a rusted one. But, that says nothing about how strong the person holding the wrench is!)
I will make a blanket statement, though. An M3 is easier to drive at 98% than an F-body. In other words, it requires less skill to drive an M3 to a certain (mediocre) time on a track than an F-body.
(I'm not saying M drivers are less skilled, though. Sort of like, it takes less effort to turn an oiled bolt than a rusted one. But, that says nothing about how strong the person holding the wrench is!)