Line lock doesnt hold very well
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Anybody else had issues with this? I have the SJM kit.
Flip the switch, push the brakes, push the button, let off brakes, clutch dump, but the car rolls forward. I was on street tires, so I dont really see why it wouldnt have held. I can definitely hear the solenoid switching on, and I verified that it does hold a little because I cant push the car while its engaged. Am I not pushing the brakes hard enough before I let off of them, or do I need to pump the brakes up or something?
Flip the switch, push the brakes, push the button, let off brakes, clutch dump, but the car rolls forward. I was on street tires, so I dont really see why it wouldnt have held. I can definitely hear the solenoid switching on, and I verified that it does hold a little because I cant push the car while its engaged. Am I not pushing the brakes hard enough before I let off of them, or do I need to pump the brakes up or something?
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Brakes have been completely bled...
Maybe I didnt hit the brakes hard enough prior to pushing the button?
Also, does the SJM kit lock both front brakes or only the driver's side?
Maybe I didnt hit the brakes hard enough prior to pushing the button?
Also, does the SJM kit lock both front brakes or only the driver's side?
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Doesnt matter on the transmission and if you have to pump it there must be air in the line or a leak. You have to push the brakes hard then lock them or you could start rolling forward, just try that and see if it holds. There is a slim chance that the line lock isn't holding the pressure and bleeding past the valve letting the pressure off, havent heard any issues with that yet though.
Dan
Dan
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On my Hurst Line lock I have to hold the brake flip the switch then pump the brake one more time to hold. That's what hurst says to do and I would think it's like this with all line locks
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I talked to hurst as well for the same problem when I bought mine and they did say you can pump it a couple times and hold it firmly and flip the switch, or press hard on the brake, flip the switch and your good to go. Not sure what pumping would do after you set the line lock on, once the valve closes no more pressure can be applied to the brakes right? Anyway, this is interesting at how everyone does it different.
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I've got the SLP lock. Mine won't let the brakes release. They stay applied, and I'm not even useing the lock. It's happened a couple of times now. I just put my stock brake line back in today. I'm going to the track tomarrow and don't want to have any problems. UPS delivered the replacement soleniod late today when I got home from work. I'll have to put it in next week. First time I've had a problem with one of SLP's products.
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I installed a line lock last year and used the Summit Racing gold solenoid and custom fabbed the rest of the setup myself...
I noticed once I had the line lock in it would not hold pressure to the brakes properly... Heck it wouldn't even give a satisfying 'thud' when actuated, it was more of a soft 'click'...
So I had an option, either take apart the solenoid and see if I an fix it myself or send it back to summit and deal with the hassles of putting the stock line back in and redoing it later... I decided not to send it back and ripped it apart...
Now, these solenoids (either the gold or black one) are identical to the Hurst line lock in design and build (the Hurst rebuild kit can be used to rebuild them as a reference point)...
I took it apart to find a bit of machining flash left over and not allowing the pintle to seat fully in the orifice, thus it would not hold pressure... I also found that the plunger was hanging up on more machining flash on the inside of the sleeve, which was preventing the plunger from moving with full force when activated... I ended up smoothed everything out, cleaned it well, reassembled it and it works absoloutly perfect now... Nice solid 'thud' when actuated and holds the brakes great...
One thing I would like to mention is with this solenoid design they have a 'bypass' passage in the body that allows for more fluid to flow to the brake calipers if you pump the pedal once the solenoid is activated... In other words you could hold the brakes, actuate the solenoid and then pump them to firmly seat the brake pads... The bypass has a check ball and spring, so it is obvious they designed it this way on purpose... I am fairly certain you don't want to actuate the lock without holding the brakes first as the fluid passage for the bypass is smaller than the main passage in the solenoid, thus it doesn't flow as well, so using it to add additional pressure seems to be the intended purpose...
The line lock holds the front brakes quite firmly (I have a C5 Z06 front brake upgrade), and even with 315 drag radials on 17x11s out back the car doesn't move...
I noticed once I had the line lock in it would not hold pressure to the brakes properly... Heck it wouldn't even give a satisfying 'thud' when actuated, it was more of a soft 'click'...
So I had an option, either take apart the solenoid and see if I an fix it myself or send it back to summit and deal with the hassles of putting the stock line back in and redoing it later... I decided not to send it back and ripped it apart...
Now, these solenoids (either the gold or black one) are identical to the Hurst line lock in design and build (the Hurst rebuild kit can be used to rebuild them as a reference point)...
I took it apart to find a bit of machining flash left over and not allowing the pintle to seat fully in the orifice, thus it would not hold pressure... I also found that the plunger was hanging up on more machining flash on the inside of the sleeve, which was preventing the plunger from moving with full force when activated... I ended up smoothed everything out, cleaned it well, reassembled it and it works absoloutly perfect now... Nice solid 'thud' when actuated and holds the brakes great...
One thing I would like to mention is with this solenoid design they have a 'bypass' passage in the body that allows for more fluid to flow to the brake calipers if you pump the pedal once the solenoid is activated... In other words you could hold the brakes, actuate the solenoid and then pump them to firmly seat the brake pads... The bypass has a check ball and spring, so it is obvious they designed it this way on purpose... I am fairly certain you don't want to actuate the lock without holding the brakes first as the fluid passage for the bypass is smaller than the main passage in the solenoid, thus it doesn't flow as well, so using it to add additional pressure seems to be the intended purpose...
The line lock holds the front brakes quite firmly (I have a C5 Z06 front brake upgrade), and even with 315 drag radials on 17x11s out back the car doesn't move...
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Well, last night I got to play with it some more, and I got it to hold perfectly once, so I guess I just need to make sure I really push the brakes hard. I also jacked the car up and verified that it is holding both front brakes. I guess it will just take some getting used to. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
I talked to hurst as well for the same problem when I bought mine and they did say you can pump it a couple times and hold it firmly and flip the switch, or press hard on the brake, flip the switch and your good to go. Not sure what pumping would do after you set the line lock on, once the valve closes no more pressure can be applied to the brakes right? Anyway, this is interesting at how everyone does it different.![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
the valve is a one way valve so it will only let pressure through one way but not the other. That's how it holds pressure
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Originally Posted by 01 Red WS6
the valve is a one way valve so it will only let pressure through one way but not the other. That's how it holds pressure
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Dan
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All our solenoids hold ~3000psi of pressure. They all work similar.
Either brake pressure applied is not great enough from the start, or air could be trapped in the lines.
Either brake pressure applied is not great enough from the start, or air could be trapped in the lines.
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
All our solenoids hold ~3000psi of pressure. They all work similar.
Either brake pressure applied is not great enough from the start, or air could be trapped in the lines.
Either brake pressure applied is not great enough from the start, or air could be trapped in the lines.
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