road racing setup
road racing setup hey i wanted to lower my car but i also wanted to gain handling im not to worried about drag racing i enjoy road racing. wut do u guys suggest for me i also have 18" motorsports so just let me know what u think or if u have somethin thats workin good for u dont know too much about suspension so if i say somethin retarded bare with me
My $.02
1. Koni SAs
2. Adjustable rod/rod PHB
3. Strano 35mm front 22mm rear sway bar
4. Strano Springs (don't have these YET...)
5. Performance alignment (-1.5 camber, +4.5 castor, Zero Toe)
I have all but 4, which I will have soon, very happy w my set up.
Lots of good info on here (LS1tech), search around some, and read the stickies. Not busting your *****, but this has been covered many times.
1. Koni SAs
2. Adjustable rod/rod PHB
3. Strano 35mm front 22mm rear sway bar
4. Strano Springs (don't have these YET...)
5. Performance alignment (-1.5 camber, +4.5 castor, Zero Toe)
I have all but 4, which I will have soon, very happy w my set up.
Lots of good info on here (LS1tech), search around some, and read the stickies. Not busting your *****, but this has been covered many times.
thats no problem man but i was lookin around i didnt see too much that was really askin people what they were really happy with for road racing just kinda wanted to see the different combinations but thanks for sharing
Cool stuff. I am about to buy another F-body to satisfy my road racing hunger, so I this info helps me out too. I am a drag racer, I am stupid with this stuff haha.
BTW, I was told that the torque arm relocation would help with braking dive. Discuss this since it pertains to road racing.
BTW, I was told that the torque arm relocation would help with braking dive. Discuss this since it pertains to road racing.
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The -1.5 camber , +4.5 castor , zero toe is about as much - camber and + castor as you can get stock. These will give better turn in and are not extreme enough to cause crazy tire wear.
Alot of guys go w toe out. That should help w turn in especially on lower speed auto-x. I haven't tried that but fear it will make the car chase grooves in the road worse. This has worked well 4 me on the road course and street. I haven't done any parking lot type, tight auto crosses since modding the car.
Here is a helpful link: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
It has spring rates, alignment suggestions, and more!
Alot of guys go w toe out. That should help w turn in especially on lower speed auto-x. I haven't tried that but fear it will make the car chase grooves in the road worse. This has worked well 4 me on the road course and street. I haven't done any parking lot type, tight auto crosses since modding the car.
Here is a helpful link: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
It has spring rates, alignment suggestions, and more!
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more negative camber help the car turn. As the car's weight shifts, it leans over onto the outside, which will make the front tire more vertical. As the sidewall flexes, it rolls the tire under the wheel and reduces the tire's contact patch. Dial in negative camber to lessen this effect. There is a point of overall diminishing returns, though. Too much negative camber makes the car ride on the inner part of the tire. This also reduces contact patch under heavy, straigh-line braking.
The more positive caster you dial in helps with high speed stability. With the tire leaned back (upper ball joint behind the lower), initial steering wheel input has a lesser effect on changing the car's direction than if the ball joints were perfectly aligned. As you give more steering input, the turning effect has an exponential effect, that is the quicker steering input becomes. That's not to say the steering ratio changes, rather the effect of the given ratio changes. Subtle differece. The downside is you feel a little less feedback from the steering wheel and steering become "heavier". It taxes the hydraulics a little more.
Zero toe or toe out makes the steering input feel more precise and the car will react quicker. It lessens the effect, somewhat, from lots of caster. The downside is the car is a lot "twitchier", requiering a more focused driver.
Alignment specs, like spring rates and sway bar sizes boils down to personal preference and driving style. There is no set in stone spec for your specific application. You will have to experiment some with different settings in order to get it where you like it.
The more positive caster you dial in helps with high speed stability. With the tire leaned back (upper ball joint behind the lower), initial steering wheel input has a lesser effect on changing the car's direction than if the ball joints were perfectly aligned. As you give more steering input, the turning effect has an exponential effect, that is the quicker steering input becomes. That's not to say the steering ratio changes, rather the effect of the given ratio changes. Subtle differece. The downside is you feel a little less feedback from the steering wheel and steering become "heavier". It taxes the hydraulics a little more.
Zero toe or toe out makes the steering input feel more precise and the car will react quicker. It lessens the effect, somewhat, from lots of caster. The downside is the car is a lot "twitchier", requiering a more focused driver.
Alignment specs, like spring rates and sway bar sizes boils down to personal preference and driving style. There is no set in stone spec for your specific application. You will have to experiment some with different settings in order to get it where you like it.
