Anyone Interested In 14" Brake Kit?
#81
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What threw me off was the first 2 places I looked said the distance between the mounting centers were 130mm, but as I kept researching, I found some conflicting numbers.
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Last edited by hpjunky98; 07-24-2008 at 05:54 PM.
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let me giv the 350z calipers a try! or would redrilling the caddy rotor's work?? how big are te caddy rotors? i know my dad can drill the rotors since we hav a milll machine
#83
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No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
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No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
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No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.
The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
Last edited by fast377; 07-24-2008 at 06:30 PM.
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GTO rotor won't work either. If you check out the other thread, all these questions have been answered. I have a brembo rotor parts catalog. I went through and picked out every rotor that was larger than 13.5. Then, out of that bunch, I picked out all the ones with the backspacing we need. That narrowed it down to 2 rotors....out of EVERY production car. AND neither of those rotors are "ideal", but they might work...just haven't had a chance to try. But like Jason said, you pretty much can't go too much further in...no more room there either.
The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.
The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.
The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
#88
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i meant the rotor not the caliper! u misunderstood. redrilling the rotors would be an option unless somebody might want to buy different rotors from every car to try on. the gto rotors sound like a good idea as well. im going to see what i can do. i need to get a hold of some rotors, and i will try the 350z caliper. do we have any concern for the rears?? lol im kinda not sure wether or not to install the stainless steel brake lines sitting in my room just yet ![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
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Drilling a rotor makes alot more sence.
GTO rotor won't work either. If you check out the other thread, all these questions have been answered. I have a brembo rotor parts catalog. I went through and picked out every rotor that was larger than 13.5. Then, out of that bunch, I picked out all the ones with the backspacing we need. That narrowed it down to 2 rotors....out of EVERY production car. AND neither of those rotors are "ideal", but they might work...just haven't had a chance to try. But like Jason said, you pretty much can't go too much further in...no more room there either.
The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.
The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.
The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
Hmmmm... I thought with a spacer between it and the hub, the GTO rotor would work, but I guess thats just like adding a spacer between a near stock offset rotor and the wheel.
My wheels are 3 peice and have alot of bolts about a 1/2 inch from the stock LS1 rotor. Im more worried about spoke clearance than anything right now, and looking at my wheels, I might be able to avoid alot of the bolt heads if I use a smaller diamiter rotor.
I knew about the washer required with the CTS-Vs. Thats bolt-on in my book
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Im sorry I completely missunderstood. ![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Drilling a rotor makes alot more sence.
Hmmmm... I thought with a spacer between it and the hub, the GTO rotor would work, but I guess thats just like adding a spacer between a near stock offset rotor and the wheel.
My wheels are 3 peice and have alot of bolts about a 1/2 inch from the stock LS1 rotor. Im more worried about spoke clearance than anything right now, and looking at my wheels, I might be able to avoid alot of the bolt heads if I use a smaller diamiter rotor.
I knew about the washer required with the CTS-Vs. Thats bolt-on in my book![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Drilling a rotor makes alot more sence.
Hmmmm... I thought with a spacer between it and the hub, the GTO rotor would work, but I guess thats just like adding a spacer between a near stock offset rotor and the wheel.
My wheels are 3 peice and have alot of bolts about a 1/2 inch from the stock LS1 rotor. Im more worried about spoke clearance than anything right now, and looking at my wheels, I might be able to avoid alot of the bolt heads if I use a smaller diamiter rotor.
I knew about the washer required with the CTS-Vs. Thats bolt-on in my book
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If your spokes are all the way out to the front of the wheel (like the C6s) I'm pretty damn sure any of them will work. All you have to do is measure out 7" from the center of the hub, then measure out 1 7/8". If your spokes clear that...you're golden.
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Jason and others I haven't been able to verify this yet, but I think a deeper offset may fit with the larger diameter rotor size. Reason being is that the back side of the rotor moves away from the lower control arm end as it grows larger. I want to try a Touareg 350mm rotor with a KORE style caliper bracket that moves the calipers back almost even with the existing mounting lugs. Based on my mock ups this may be the only way to use a "cheap" production rotor.
![](http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc31/VCradier/brakeshots008.jpg)
Vernon
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Vernon
Last edited by Manic Mechanic; 07-24-2008 at 10:25 PM.
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Just for laughs, here's how close the caliper sits to the Firehawk rim on stock mounts. I had to get just the right angle to see light, it is less than 1/8". By using regular mag spacers behind and on top of the rotor I was able to clear the spokes and spin the wheel. The interference to spokes witout spacers was about 14mm.
![](http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc31/VCradier/caliperwheel003.jpg)
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Jason and others I haven't been able to verify this yet, but I think a deeper offset may fit with the larger diameter rotor size. Reason being is that the back side of the rotor moves away from the lower control arm end as it grows larger. I want to try a Cayene/Toureg rotor with a KORE style caliper bracket that moves the calipers back almost even with the existing mounting lugs. Based on my mock ups this may be the only way to use a "cheap" production rotor.
Vernon
Vernon
Just for laughs, here's how close the caliper sits to the Firehawk rim on stock mounts. I had to get just the right angle to see light, it is less than 1/8". By using regular mag spacers behind and on top of the rotor I was able to clear the spokes and spin the wheel. The interference to spokes witout spacers was about 14mm.
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I had thought of that too...but you start going too big, and even 18" wheels won't work. Look at your second picture though. Start going back and the steering arm becomes a problem. To clear most wheel's spokes, the caliper really needs to mount on the back side of the spindle. Wait, are you saying that the caliper AND Chrysler rotor bolted together AND fit in the Firehawk wheel?
That's exactly how my ZR1s looked. It "works", but I don't know how safe it would be.
That's exactly how my ZR1s looked. It "works", but I don't know how safe it would be.
I think there's room to get closer to the tie-rod end. I'd like to get a rotor to try it though. Maybe I'll work on that.
Vernon
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Rotor to LCA clearance is very tight. This pic is at full extension.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%206/RotorClearanceatA-arm0.jpg)
I think you have 1/2" gap.
Here's a pic with the car at ride height.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2590b.jpg)
Using a 13" rotor will give you an extra 1/2" of room for the LCA, but it won't be enough. I'm not even sure a 14" rotors 1" would be enough.
As the suspension compresses, the tip of the A-arm moves up and out, closer to the rotor. I don't have a pic of that, but I'm pulling my shocks pretty soon so I'll get some pics of it fully compressed.
It may be possible to do some cutting and welding on the balljoint mount area to get rid of that tip. A piece of steel pipe sized for the balljoint to fit into should work. Similar to this pic below.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%209/hi-resLower1.jpg)
Maybe just slicing the tip off and welding in a flat piece of plate would work? I think you'd again about 1/2" which is pretty good. Here are the best pics I could find of the stock arm.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%209/OEMca_1_b1.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%206/RotorClearanceatA-arm0.jpg)
I think you have 1/2" gap.
Here's a pic with the car at ride height.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2590b.jpg)
Using a 13" rotor will give you an extra 1/2" of room for the LCA, but it won't be enough. I'm not even sure a 14" rotors 1" would be enough.
As the suspension compresses, the tip of the A-arm moves up and out, closer to the rotor. I don't have a pic of that, but I'm pulling my shocks pretty soon so I'll get some pics of it fully compressed.
It may be possible to do some cutting and welding on the balljoint mount area to get rid of that tip. A piece of steel pipe sized for the balljoint to fit into should work. Similar to this pic below.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%209/hi-resLower1.jpg)
Maybe just slicing the tip off and welding in a flat piece of plate would work? I think you'd again about 1/2" which is pretty good. Here are the best pics I could find of the stock arm.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%209/OEMca_1_b1.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%209/OEM4f44_1.jpg)
Last edited by JasonWW; 07-25-2008 at 01:36 AM.
#99
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Good info, but that pic with the formula wheels is NOT acceptable clearance to me. I wouldn't feel safe If I had to "look" for a gap to see the light coming through. Id feel much more comfortable with the 13.5" Z51 rotor. I know alot of you have seen this, but if you havn't, heres the combo with the Z51 spec rotor in a 17inch wheel using a 3ed gen spindle and conversion bracket by EBMiller:
![](http://www.cascadecrew.org/John/Brake%20Swap/Test8.jpg)
More info though: Alfa Romeo spec 4 pot brembos DO have 130mm between mounting points, so they will bolt on. I don't know offsets, and I don't know how much away from the center of the hub they sit, but they seem to have shorter mounting extentions than the caddy caliper. These are not the same size as the caddy or evo spec calipers. These are smaller...
Heres a pic for reference:
![](http://i22.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/ff/f9/0fe1_1.JPG)
![](http://i18.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/ff/f9/7af5_1.JPG)
![](http://i1.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/ff/f9/44b1_1.JPG)
This is a good starting point for a smaller kit, but I'd want larger calipers if Im going to make my own kit. The problem I run into whith my wheels, is that they have 15" centers bolted to a 17" wheel hub, so there is a large "hill" going from the centers to the hub on the inside of the wheel. I really don't see how I could fit the Caddys because of this.
Oh, and for anyone wondering, I lost the auction for the Evo calipers!
![](http://www.cascadecrew.org/John/Brake%20Swap/Test8.jpg)
More info though: Alfa Romeo spec 4 pot brembos DO have 130mm between mounting points, so they will bolt on. I don't know offsets, and I don't know how much away from the center of the hub they sit, but they seem to have shorter mounting extentions than the caddy caliper. These are not the same size as the caddy or evo spec calipers. These are smaller...
Heres a pic for reference:
This is a good starting point for a smaller kit, but I'd want larger calipers if Im going to make my own kit. The problem I run into whith my wheels, is that they have 15" centers bolted to a 17" wheel hub, so there is a large "hill" going from the centers to the hub on the inside of the wheel. I really don't see how I could fit the Caddys because of this.
Oh, and for anyone wondering, I lost the auction for the Evo calipers!
Last edited by hpjunky98; 07-25-2008 at 01:22 PM.
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