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Anyone Interested In 14" Brake Kit?

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Old 07-24-2008, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
and also in order to fit a 13' rotor wit the caddy caliper dont we have to move the mounting bolts more to the center?
Yes, thats the reason I started looking at other brembo calipers. Look at my post at the top of the previous page. I hope I don't win them either, but if I do, I know a friend that can whip me up some brackets... so we'll see what happens.

What threw me off was the first 2 places I looked said the distance between the mounting centers were 130mm, but as I kept researching, I found some conflicting numbers.

Last edited by hpjunky98; 07-24-2008 at 05:54 PM.
Old 07-24-2008, 06:00 PM
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let me giv the 350z calipers a try! or would redrilling the caddy rotor's work?? how big are te caddy rotors? i know my dad can drill the rotors since we hav a milll machine
Old 07-24-2008, 06:05 PM
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No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.

If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
Old 07-24-2008, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hpjunky98
No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.

If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
i meant the rotor not the caliper! u misunderstood. redrilling the rotors would be an option unless somebody might want to buy different rotors from every car to try on. the gto rotors sound like a good idea as well. im going to see what i can do. i need to get a hold of some rotors, and i will try the 350z caliper. do we have any concern for the rears?? lol im kinda not sure wether or not to install the stainless steel brake lines sitting in my room just yet
Old 07-24-2008, 06:21 PM
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i think i can make the evo caliper work, it looks real simple, and im sure the caliper is going to fit ove the 13' rotor
Old 07-24-2008, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hpjunky98
No, honestly drilling into the caliper itself is the last thing I would think you want to do. I think the Evo or STI calipers with a bracket would be a better option. The mounting extentions on the CTS-V calipers are too long to try to mess with anything smaller than 14" without a bracket. Besides, you don't want to change any of the structural integrity of the calipers at all.

If you do go that route, best wishes to you, but I really don't think you'll be very happy with the results. Right now Im considering a GTO rotor (which has more of an offset to accomidate the spokes If a spacer is used between it and the hub to clear the A-arm) with a bracket for the Evo rotor. Its not my original plan, but Its a more valid option.
GTO rotor won't work either. If you check out the other thread, all these questions have been answered. I have a brembo rotor parts catalog. I went through and picked out every rotor that was larger than 13.5. Then, out of that bunch, I picked out all the ones with the backspacing we need. That narrowed it down to 2 rotors....out of EVERY production car. AND neither of those rotors are "ideal", but they might work...just haven't had a chance to try. But like Jason said, you pretty much can't go too much further in...no more room there either.

The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.

The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.

Last edited by fast377; 07-24-2008 at 06:30 PM.
Old 07-24-2008, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by fast377
GTO rotor won't work either. If you check out the other thread, all these questions have been answered. I have a brembo rotor parts catalog. I went through and picked out every rotor that was larger than 13.5. Then, out of that bunch, I picked out all the ones with the backspacing we need. That narrowed it down to 2 rotors....out of EVERY production car. AND neither of those rotors are "ideal", but they might work...just haven't had a chance to try. But like Jason said, you pretty much can't go too much further in...no more room there either.

The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.

The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.
do u have a pic of what it looks like and how close is it to the spokes? have u tried this with the 10 spoke wheels? also what brake line have u used?
Old 07-24-2008, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
i meant the rotor not the caliper! u misunderstood. redrilling the rotors would be an option unless somebody might want to buy different rotors from every car to try on. the gto rotors sound like a good idea as well. im going to see what i can do. i need to get a hold of some rotors, and i will try the 350z caliper. do we have any concern for the rears?? lol im kinda not sure wether or not to install the stainless steel brake lines sitting in my room just yet
Im sorry I completely missunderstood.

Drilling a rotor makes alot more sence.


Originally Posted by fast377
GTO rotor won't work either. If you check out the other thread, all these questions have been answered. I have a brembo rotor parts catalog. I went through and picked out every rotor that was larger than 13.5. Then, out of that bunch, I picked out all the ones with the backspacing we need. That narrowed it down to 2 rotors....out of EVERY production car. AND neither of those rotors are "ideal", but they might work...just haven't had a chance to try. But like Jason said, you pretty much can't go too much further in...no more room there either.

The 14" CTS-V brake setup WILL FIT IN A 17" WHEEL (don't know about all wheels, just my ZR1s), if and only if diameter is your only concern. It is a VERY tight fit...but it fits. A little slop in the hub and you might get in trouble. Spoke clearance is the only issue at the moment.

The CTS-V calipers aren't quite a direct bolton. They do require a small washer between the mounting lugs and spindle...not that that's a big deal though.

Hmmmm... I thought with a spacer between it and the hub, the GTO rotor would work, but I guess thats just like adding a spacer between a near stock offset rotor and the wheel.

My wheels are 3 peice and have alot of bolts about a 1/2 inch from the stock LS1 rotor. Im more worried about spoke clearance than anything right now, and looking at my wheels, I might be able to avoid alot of the bolt heads if I use a smaller diamiter rotor.

I knew about the washer required with the CTS-Vs. Thats bolt-on in my book
Old 07-24-2008, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
do u have a pic of what it looks like and how close is it to the spokes? have u tried this with the 10 spoke wheels? also what brake line have u used?
No, I don't have any pics. And the only 17" wheel I tried it on was the ZR1s. Clearance was somewhere between 1/16-1/8".

Originally Posted by hpjunky98
Im sorry I completely missunderstood.

Drilling a rotor makes alot more sence.





Hmmmm... I thought with a spacer between it and the hub, the GTO rotor would work, but I guess thats just like adding a spacer between a near stock offset rotor and the wheel.

My wheels are 3 peice and have alot of bolts about a 1/2 inch from the stock LS1 rotor. Im more worried about spoke clearance than anything right now, and looking at my wheels, I might be able to avoid alot of the bolt heads if I use a smaller diamiter rotor.

I knew about the washer required with the CTS-Vs. Thats bolt-on in my book
I don't even think the evo calipers with a smaller rotor will work. If I remember right, the evo caliper is the same thickness as the caddy. So no matter how far in you brought it, it's still going to hit.

If your spokes are all the way out to the front of the wheel (like the C6s) I'm pretty damn sure any of them will work. All you have to do is measure out 7" from the center of the hub, then measure out 1 7/8". If your spokes clear that...you're golden.
Old 07-24-2008, 09:31 PM
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Jason and others I haven't been able to verify this yet, but I think a deeper offset may fit with the larger diameter rotor size. Reason being is that the back side of the rotor moves away from the lower control arm end as it grows larger. I want to try a Touareg 350mm rotor with a KORE style caliper bracket that moves the calipers back almost even with the existing mounting lugs. Based on my mock ups this may be the only way to use a "cheap" production rotor.



Vernon

Last edited by Manic Mechanic; 07-24-2008 at 10:25 PM.
Old 07-24-2008, 09:36 PM
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Here's a side shot, there's plenty of room to go back. This is with a Chrysler 300C Hemi rotor and CTS-V caliper.

Old 07-24-2008, 10:01 PM
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Just for laughs, here's how close the caliper sits to the Firehawk rim on stock mounts. I had to get just the right angle to see light, it is less than 1/8". By using regular mag spacers behind and on top of the rotor I was able to clear the spokes and spin the wheel. The interference to spokes witout spacers was about 14mm.

Old 07-24-2008, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
Jason and others I haven't been able to verify this yet, but I think a deeper offset may fit with the larger diameter rotor size. Reason being is that the back side of the rotor moves away from the lower control arm end as it grows larger. I want to try a Cayene/Toureg rotor with a KORE style caliper bracket that moves the calipers back almost even with the existing mounting lugs. Based on my mock ups this may be the only way to use a "cheap" production rotor.
Vernon
I had thought of that too...but you start going too big, and even 18" wheels won't work. Look at your second picture though. Start going back and the steering arm becomes a problem. To clear most wheel's spokes, the caliper really needs to mount on the back side of the spindle. Wait, are you saying that the caliper AND Chrysler rotor bolted together AND fit in the Firehawk wheel?

Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
Just for laughs, here's how close the caliper sits to the Firehawk rim on stock mounts. I had to get just the right angle to see light, it is less than 1/8". By using regular mag spacers behind and on top of the rotor I was able to clear the spokes and spin the wheel. The interference to spokes witout spacers was about 14mm.
That's exactly how my ZR1s looked. It "works", but I don't know how safe it would be.
Old 07-24-2008, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fast377
I had thought of that too...but you start going too big, and even 18" wheels won't work. Look at your second picture though. Start going back and the steering arm becomes a problem. To clear most wheel's spokes, the caliper really needs to mount on the back side of the spindle. Wait, are you saying that the caliper AND Chrysler rotor bolted together AND fit in the Firehawk wheel?



That's exactly how my ZR1s looked. It "works", but I don't know how safe it would be.
The rotor fit the spindle with a slight relief grind on the outer edge of each lug hole, nothing fancy just for fitting. Then I put a Mr. Gasket 5/16" spacer on the hub, then the rotor, then another 5/16" spacer between the rotor and wheel. All the while the caliper bolted in place like stock. It barely cleared and spun mounted. I need 14mm and the spacers gave me 16mm. As for the larger rotors, if they still fit in the caliper they will fit the 17"s. You wouldn't want to bend in a rim at high speeds in any case but a 17" would not turn after that with these calipers.

I think there's room to get closer to the tie-rod end. I'd like to get a rotor to try it though. Maybe I'll work on that.

Vernon
Old 07-24-2008, 10:28 PM
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Interesting...I think I may have even listed those rotors with dimensions in the other thread. I'll have to go back and check.
Old 07-24-2008, 10:50 PM
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wait 300c rotor and caddy calipers will bolt up under my 10 spokes??
Old 07-25-2008, 12:57 AM
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Rotor to LCA clearance is very tight. This pic is at full extension.



I think you have 1/2" gap.

Here's a pic with the car at ride height.



Using a 13" rotor will give you an extra 1/2" of room for the LCA, but it won't be enough. I'm not even sure a 14" rotors 1" would be enough.

As the suspension compresses, the tip of the A-arm moves up and out, closer to the rotor. I don't have a pic of that, but I'm pulling my shocks pretty soon so I'll get some pics of it fully compressed.

It may be possible to do some cutting and welding on the balljoint mount area to get rid of that tip. A piece of steel pipe sized for the balljoint to fit into should work. Similar to this pic below.



Maybe just slicing the tip off and welding in a flat piece of plate would work? I think you'd again about 1/2" which is pretty good. Here are the best pics I could find of the stock arm.


Last edited by JasonWW; 07-25-2008 at 01:36 AM.
Old 07-25-2008, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
wait 300c rotor and caddy calipers will bolt up under my 10 spokes??
No, don't jump the gun. If it were that simple I'd have posted installed pics on my car. I just obtained the 300C rotor to test out some fitament theorys. We're still working this all out.

Vernon
Old 07-25-2008, 11:39 AM
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Good info, but that pic with the formula wheels is NOT acceptable clearance to me. I wouldn't feel safe If I had to "look" for a gap to see the light coming through. Id feel much more comfortable with the 13.5" Z51 rotor. I know alot of you have seen this, but if you havn't, heres the combo with the Z51 spec rotor in a 17inch wheel using a 3ed gen spindle and conversion bracket by EBMiller:


More info though: Alfa Romeo spec 4 pot brembos DO have 130mm between mounting points, so they will bolt on. I don't know offsets, and I don't know how much away from the center of the hub they sit, but they seem to have shorter mounting extentions than the caddy caliper. These are not the same size as the caddy or evo spec calipers. These are smaller...

Heres a pic for reference:





This is a good starting point for a smaller kit, but I'd want larger calipers if Im going to make my own kit. The problem I run into whith my wheels, is that they have 15" centers bolted to a 17" wheel hub, so there is a large "hill" going from the centers to the hub on the inside of the wheel. I really don't see how I could fit the Caddys because of this.

Oh, and for anyone wondering, I lost the auction for the Evo calipers!

Last edited by hpjunky98; 07-25-2008 at 01:22 PM.
Old 07-25-2008, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW

Maybe just slicing the tip off and welding in a flat piece of plate would work? I think you'd again about 1/2" which is pretty good. Here are the best pics I could find of the stock arm.

Wow, didn't relize it was that bad ... amazing how much clearance you would gain for the offset of the rotors with an aftermerket set of A-Arms.


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