pain in the A$$ struts install
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From: Ft.Campbell, KY..dam Army
pain in the A$$ struts install Tried to install the Koni SA struts tonight with no luck. Dam gm got me with some weird T-50 screws on the driver side strut, needless to say i had to give up and regroup.
Was everyones this dam hard? And by the way, the passenger side bolts are regular ones
Was everyones this dam hard? And by the way, the passenger side bolts are regular ones
The biggest pain for me was that I had to cut the top nut off one of the old shocks due to rust... Very common problem with these cars. So, be prepared for that as well! 
Others have mentioned that they move the Torx-head bolts to the passenger side when putting everything back together because standard bolts are easier to work with when they're underneath the master cylinder. Are you changing the springs too?
Others have mentioned that they move the Torx-head bolts to the passenger side when putting everything back together because standard bolts are easier to work with when they're underneath the master cylinder. Are you changing the springs too? Thread Starter
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From: Ft.Campbell, KY..dam Army
Originally Posted by jb442
The biggest pain for me was that I had to cut the top nut off one of the old shocks due to rust... Very common problem with these cars. So, be prepared for that as well! Others have mentioned that they move the Torx-head bolts to the passenger side when putting everything back together because standard bolts are easier to work with when they're underneath the master cylinder. Are you changing the springs too?
Others have mentioned that they move the Torx-head bolts to the passenger side when putting everything back together because standard bolts are easier to work with when they're underneath the master cylinder. Are you changing the springs too?nope, i've got the eibach pro kit on and have had it on since day two
www.ls1howto.com ...should have taken the time to read the writeup's bro, I knew exactly what tools to pick up before I began working on mine this past weekend.
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From: Lexington,MO
Originally Posted by MightyBobo
www.ls1howto.com ...should have taken the time to read the writeup's bro, I knew exactly what tools to pick up before I began working on mine this past weekend.
I replaced my front and rear shocks/struts with a set of Monroe replacements in my shop class at school, so I had a full lift, good spring compressor, etc. and still was a royal PITA.
The t-50 bolts on mine had been stripped out, so I ended up having to cut the tops of the bolts off and punching out the bolts to get them out. Then went to the hardware store and bought two 3/8"x1" grade 8 bolts to replace those darn star bolts. Other than that, and leaving a bushing out in one of the rears *doh*, it was a breeze.
The t-50 bolts on mine had been stripped out, so I ended up having to cut the tops of the bolts off and punching out the bolts to get them out. Then went to the hardware store and bought two 3/8"x1" grade 8 bolts to replace those darn star bolts. Other than that, and leaving a bushing out in one of the rears *doh*, it was a breeze.
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Originally Posted by Out1aw
I replaced my front and rear shocks/struts with a set of Monroe replacements in my shop class at school, so I had a full lift, good spring compressor, etc. and still was a royal PITA.
The t-50 bolts on mine had been stripped out, so I ended up having to cut the tops of the bolts off and punching out the bolts to get them out. Then went to the hardware store and bought two 3/8"x1" grade 8 bolts to replace those darn star bolts. Other than that, and leaving a bushing out in one of the rears *doh*, it was a breeze.
The t-50 bolts on mine had been stripped out, so I ended up having to cut the tops of the bolts off and punching out the bolts to get them out. Then went to the hardware store and bought two 3/8"x1" grade 8 bolts to replace those darn star bolts. Other than that, and leaving a bushing out in one of the rears *doh*, it was a breeze.
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Lisle makes a shock absorber tool to get those pesky rusted nuts off. Its a $10 tool and saves many headaches for rusted on nuts. Spray a good penetrate like PB Blaster and knock the surface rust off with a wire brush. They usually come right off with my impact once compressed but if not ive bought and used that tool many a times to finish the job.
Originally Posted by Out1aw
We also had a problem with the top nut on the front struts being rusted on. But a whizz-wheel, chisel, and hammer made a quick fix for that.
I coated the crap out of it with some lithium grease lol.
and there is a noticable difference 
