Strano, I need your advice
#1
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Strano, I need your advice
My car doesnt feel like it did before.
Okay. Before I had your 35 mm swaybar, 21mm rear swaybar, strano springs. Hotchkiss PHB poly, Koni shocks. Also I have a poly trans mount and put a poly bushing in my stock T/A.
I havent installed my new Torque Arm or SFC yet.
I have an Aluminum flywheel, LS7 clutch, B&M shifter. Pacesetter ceramic coated LTs, ORY, SLP LM1 with dynomax bullet. SLP lid, smooth bellows, K&N. APC race seat with 5 pt harness, Spohn LCA, Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley.
With these mods the car felt fine after I installed your suspension components. I handles much better, by having reduced body roll. quicker cornering speeds, the car felt more responsive. the ride was slightly stiffer, but felt like in better control. Nose dive was reduced when I braked and when I got on the throttle the car hpped less. Just a great , tight suspension.
Now that I put in my Moser 12 bolt trutrac with 3.73s , PST aluminum driveshaft, INSTALLED REAR SUSPENSION BACK ON (notice in all caps because I think this can be a reason), and Mickey Thompson ET street radial tires and new front tires. the car feels loose. The rearend doesnt feel stable.
I had a vibration @ 60-70 mph before, but after I changed my tires it went away. It was bald spots in the front tires from hard braking @ high speeds (i have hawk pads).
The car feels like it wanders and I did get an alignment after my tires.
So Im unsure why it doesnt feel like it used to. My cae also makes noise from the new rear rotor and my e brake sucks. I need to adjust the cable I guess and maybe that will also reduce the rotor noise somehow? Anyways, just mentioning that if it can have something to do with it..
any input please...
Okay. Before I had your 35 mm swaybar, 21mm rear swaybar, strano springs. Hotchkiss PHB poly, Koni shocks. Also I have a poly trans mount and put a poly bushing in my stock T/A.
I havent installed my new Torque Arm or SFC yet.
I have an Aluminum flywheel, LS7 clutch, B&M shifter. Pacesetter ceramic coated LTs, ORY, SLP LM1 with dynomax bullet. SLP lid, smooth bellows, K&N. APC race seat with 5 pt harness, Spohn LCA, Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley.
With these mods the car felt fine after I installed your suspension components. I handles much better, by having reduced body roll. quicker cornering speeds, the car felt more responsive. the ride was slightly stiffer, but felt like in better control. Nose dive was reduced when I braked and when I got on the throttle the car hpped less. Just a great , tight suspension.
Now that I put in my Moser 12 bolt trutrac with 3.73s , PST aluminum driveshaft, INSTALLED REAR SUSPENSION BACK ON (notice in all caps because I think this can be a reason), and Mickey Thompson ET street radial tires and new front tires. the car feels loose. The rearend doesnt feel stable.
I had a vibration @ 60-70 mph before, but after I changed my tires it went away. It was bald spots in the front tires from hard braking @ high speeds (i have hawk pads).
The car feels like it wanders and I did get an alignment after my tires.
So Im unsure why it doesnt feel like it used to. My cae also makes noise from the new rear rotor and my e brake sucks. I need to adjust the cable I guess and maybe that will also reduce the rotor noise somehow? Anyways, just mentioning that if it can have something to do with it..
any input please...
#3
Do you think it has something to do with the addition of a hell of a lot more unsprung weight (the 12-bolt) along with drag oriented tires that have soft sidewalls????????
I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
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#4
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Do you think it has something to do with the addition of a hell of a lot more unsprung weight (the 12-bolt) along with drag oriented tires that have soft sidewalls????????
I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
#5
Your car should feel different than it did before you put on all the mods. I can imagine that ET street radials would be a bit unstable. What was your original gear before, 3.42? You have an aluminum flywheel for a drag racing setup? That must suck to launch on.
I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes
I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes
#6
Put your old wheels and tires on, and I bet it gets back to where it was. You are trying to drive around on a tire with a drag racing purpose. Can you? You can, hell, I could drive on my Hoosier racing tires meant only for autox. The are DOT legal and have "tread", but I don't, because they really aren't street tires. They ride very hard and hurt my wrists on the road because they pull so hard through ruts. They are fast where they are meant to be, in an autox. Your tires are the same way, but drag racing oriented instead, which is just the opposite of my Hoosiers. But still far away from a true performance street tire.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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#10
Originally Posted by Greggy
Couldn't the rear control arm angles cause this problem if the angles with the new axle are way different I'm not sure if the Moser has the same LCA bracket height.
#11
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Originally Posted by Greggy
Couldn't the rear control arm angles cause this problem if the angles with the new axle are way different I'm not sure if the Moser has the same LCA bracket height.
#12
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Originally Posted by z28bryan
Your car should feel different than it did before you put on all the mods. I can imagine that ET street radials would be a bit unstable. What was your original gear before, 3.42? You have an aluminum flywheel for a drag racing setup? That must suck to launch on.
I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes
I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes
Yes they were 3.42s.
Aluminum flywheel, it isnt a drag racing car only. Its adaily driver and I take it rad raciing also. But I also drag race it.
Yes the Nittos felt way better. tyhe Mickey Thomposns launch better, but thats about it. I should just stick to a pair of slicks to use on dragstrip days only.
#13
Ok then, but I think it's the tires more than anything. And the car would only be messed up if the LCA's were suddenly way tail-down, and I can pretty much guarantee that they aren't.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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#14
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Put your old wheels and tires on, and I bet it gets back to where it was. You are trying to drive around on a tire with a drag racing purpose. Can you? You can, hell, I could drive on my Hoosier racing tires meant only for autox. The are DOT legal and have "tread", but I don't, because they really aren't street tires. They ride very hard and hurt my wrists on the road because they pull so hard through ruts. They are fast where they are meant to be, in an autox. Your tires are the same way, but drag racing oriented instead, which is just the opposite of my Hoosiers. But still far away from a true performance street tire.
#15
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I dont have the old tires with me. Im sure thats part of the reason, but I believe the new 12 bolt is a reason for the geometry of my suspension chaning and feeling awkward.
#16
Again you are assuming. You know the tires are different, and drag biased. You don't know the LCA's angles are messed up. Which is more likely? The tires. The rear was build for a F-body and that includes the mounts for the LCA's. I don't deal a lot with aftermarket rear housings, but I'm sure you'll find that your control arm angles are slightly nose-down because of the lowering, which makes the car MORE stable, not less.
That's my advice/opinion.
That's my advice/opinion.
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#17
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Again you are assuming. You know the tires are different, and drag biased. You don't know the LCA's angles are messed up. Which is more likely? The tires. The rear was build for a F-body and that includes the mounts for the LCA's. I don't deal a lot with aftermarket rear housings, but I'm sure you'll find that your control arm angles are slightly nose-down because of the lowering, which makes the car MORE stable, not less.
That's my advice/opinion.
That's my advice/opinion.
they are still radials though.
so what should I do to stabilize the car again? is my only solution new tires?
#18
So what if they are still radials? So are 44" Super Swampers. If the only difference between tires was radail vs. bias, you wouldn't have drag tires, racing slicks, winter tires, etc.
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#19
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
So what if they are still radials? So are 44" Super Swampers. If the only difference between tires was radail vs. bias, you wouldn't have drag tires, racing slicks, winter tires, etc.
anwways, as I said before. what do you think could help me correct this besides new tires.
#20
New tires. More air might help a little (having no idea what you are running now for pressure.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion