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View Poll Results: Number of points on the cage?
6 point roll bar
8
42.11%
10 point cage
10
52.63%
No bar or cage
1
5.26%
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roll bar vs cage

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Old 06-04-2007, 10:22 AM
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Default roll bar vs cage

do you think i should go with a 6 point roll bar from wolfe or with a 10 point cage thru spohn (basically the same as the six point but with a halo, A-pillar downbars and additional contact point in the rear) neither requires modification to the dash or firewall, but would a 10 point be overkill??

my car will be a road racer that sees limited street duty (75 and sunny or nicer ONLY), with tons of power to play with. i like the idea of a cage not only because it keeps the roof off your head if you put the car on its top (definatly nice if you have a t-top car like i do), but also for the structural stability - i'll be running a moderate H/C combo on a 427 so containing the torque is a contributing factor - but if the added points really wont help all that much, i'll be happy to ditch the extra weight.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:45 AM
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Do your homework.

At some point in time, you might decide to compete in a series in that car. It would be a shame to have to ditch all the time and effort spent on either cage only to find out it does meet specs for a series.

Having said that, neither the Wolfe or Spohn cage/bars meet anything close to road racing specs.

I know Wolfe only uses ERW tubing and suspect Spohn does the same. Almost all classes of road racing I'm familiar with requires DOM tubing.

Also, a bolt in cage is just about next to worthless as it bolts in through the floor pan.

This practice doesn't give you a solid foundation to build off of, it intrudes into the passenger compartment quite a bit, causing things like heads, arm and legs better contact points.

And consequently, doesn't add a tremendous amount of chassis rigidity,

Here are some pics of a cage we built in a 3rd gen ...

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9223

Notice the base plates welded to significant structural points (where multiple seams come together).

And amazingly enough, the inside cage demensions are almost identical between 3rd and 4th gens. I was very surprised ...

HTH
Old 06-20-2007, 09:13 PM
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that's great info mitchntx. My question though, I guess kinda related, if you put a cage in the car since it adds so much rigidity to the car, do you still need subframe connectors?
Old 06-20-2007, 09:53 PM
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wel built cage will eliminate the need for sub frame connectors.. although you can keep them in for peace of mind. (and even more weight)
Old 06-21-2007, 12:36 PM
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I agree with Dan0.

But to quantify ... a 6 point cage, like the Wolfe design, isn't a substantial enough cage to be considered "well built" in order to not use SFCs.

A 6 point like this and this will.
Old 07-05-2007, 09:52 AM
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I went with a 6 point from wolfe cause of ease of instalution and it meets the track standards. Im a street/track car so for me I think it was the best choice....plus I got a kick *** deal on mine. If one day I decide to go real BIG well then I take it out...it wont be hard.
Old 07-06-2007, 07:14 PM
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Wow, now the question is, will a cage allow the car to handle better than a car without a cage?
Old 07-06-2007, 11:16 PM
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Spohn gets there roll bars from S&W race cars, its not on spohns site but there is a DOM 10 point that S&W makes its 400 bucks compared to the listed 200, and really the S&W cages need to be bent and notched, when I got my 8 point bar the only bar that was bent was the main hoop and we even bent that a little harder to match up the the cars better, I would think that halo would be bent in a 10 point kit as well but its a lot of work bending and notching a cage in a car, it took me and a friend 2 days to put mine in with my car allready gutted out and thats all he does is put roll bars in. heres a couple of pics of a S&W 8 point kit







Old 07-07-2007, 01:22 AM
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the wolfe 6point bolt in roll bar i got, the bolts go right through the front frame. do the cromoly cages meet road racing requirments?

Originally Posted by mitchntx
Do your homework.

At some point in time, you might decide to compete in a series in that car. It would be a shame to have to ditch all the time and effort spent on either cage only to find out it does meet specs for a series.

Having said that, neither the Wolfe or Spohn cage/bars meet anything close to road racing specs.

I know Wolfe only uses ERW tubing and suspect Spohn does the same. Almost all classes of road racing I'm familiar with requires DOM tubing.

Also, a bolt in cage is just about next to worthless as it bolts in through the floor pan.

This practice doesn't give you a solid foundation to build off of, it intrudes into the passenger compartment quite a bit, causing things like heads, arm and legs better contact points.

And consequently, doesn't add a tremendous amount of chassis rigidity,

Here are some pics of a cage we built in a 3rd gen ...

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9223

Notice the base plates welded to significant structural points (where multiple seams come together).

And amazingly enough, the inside cage demensions are almost identical between 3rd and 4th gens. I was very surprised ...

HTH
Old 07-07-2007, 03:07 AM
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You would need to get a set of rules for the class you are looking at competing in and check.

For NASA and CMC,

Section 15.6.18 of the NASA CCR:

2201 - 3000 lbs.
1.500” x 0.120” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM)
1.750” x 0.095” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM)
1.750” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages 04/30/03)
*Note- Specifications listed for reference for inspection of grandfathered vehicles.

3001 - 4000 lbs.
1.750” x .120” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM)
No ERW allowed.



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