Tubular or boxed?
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9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Tubular or boxed? Whats the difference? Ive got the Hotchkis STB and I was just thinking of getting the rest of the stuff in Hotchkis just to stick with the same brand. Will I add any weight from all stock suspension to Hotchkis components? (not including sub-frame connectors) Are the Hotchkis sub-frame connectors heavy? Whats the weight on them? Whats better as far as trailing arms and sub-frame connectors go...tubular or boxed? Who makes the lightest and strongest components? Does Hotchkis offer any of their suspension in chromoly or any other type of light weight metal? Thanks
Re: Tubular or boxed? I've gone back and forth on the tubular/boxed SFCs. I think the 4TH Gens are not as flexible as most think especially if it's a HT. I'm going with tubular-less weight!
Just don't think the added rigidity offsets the weight penalty. JMO
Just don't think the added rigidity offsets the weight penalty. JMO
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Re: Tubular or boxed? I got BMR tubulars on mine, I was thinking about going boxed, but I already deal w/clearance issues, so I didn't want to have another problem, those hang pretty low...
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 142
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From: Rochester , NY
Re: Tubular or boxed? i went through this same decision last week!! I ended up ordering a set of BMR tubular's. When i get them in the mail they were beefer than I thought. Im sure they will hold up very good. Also willl be good for ground clerance.
Re: Tubular or boxed? I have the Hotchkis Subframe Connectors and the BMR tubular LCA...the Hotchkis box LCA are a lot heavyer then the BMR tubular LCA's.
So I say go with the Hotchkis Subframe Connectors
and the BMR tubular LCA's..
just my .02cents
So I say go with the Hotchkis Subframe Connectors
and the BMR tubular LCA's..
just my .02cents
Re: Tubular or boxed? I like tubular (with rod ends), they eliminate bind in the rear suspension. Just my thoughts on that.
Second, I always hear everyone talk about "strength". I (personally, or by a friend of a friend) am yet to see anyone break any of the aftermarket control arms out there. I'm not saying it can't happen, but it seems to either never happen, or it is such a small probability....that it is not worth being concerned about. Just my thoughts on that.....I'll go away now....
Hope this helps....Good luck!
Second, I always hear everyone talk about "strength". I (personally, or by a friend of a friend) am yet to see anyone break any of the aftermarket control arms out there. I'm not saying it can't happen, but it seems to either never happen, or it is such a small probability....that it is not worth being concerned about. Just my thoughts on that.....I'll go away now....
Hope this helps....Good luck!
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
Re: Tubular or boxed? I know that I dont have enough power to break anything, so I was guess my best bet would be to go with tubular? How much lighter are the BMR tubular sub-frame connectors than the Hotchkis? The same question for the LCAs too? Is it really going to make that big of a difference in strength? I dont think that Ill ever run into breaking anything because I plan to stop with modding my car when I get heads and a 12 bolt, so I should be ok with tubular, right? The main things Im concered about is weight and strength. Secondly, how big of a difference does it make if I was to swap to the BMR tubular lower control arms? What are the advantages and disadvantages of having them? Is is true that if I was to lower my car (1") it will hurt my quarter mile time? If so, what can I do to get it lowered without effecting the time. Lastly, the most important, does all the f-body 10-bolt suspension fit on 12 bolts? I ask that because in the future I plan to get one and I sure would hate to buy all new suspension components for the 12 bolt. Thanks alot.
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Re: Tubular or boxed? Lowered cars usually don't run as well at the drag strip due to changes in the rear suspension geometry (usually fixed by LCA relocation brackets), and the fact that they don't "transfer" weight as well (usually due to stiffer springs and matching shocks on all corners). However, lowered cars can still run quite well at the strip....it just may cost you some ET.
The advantages to tubular lower control arms (with heim joints, otherwise known as rod ends...or the "race" control arms) is that they eliminate binding of the suspension and allow the axle to "rotate" and move over bumps as intended. I'd not think that weight is a big consieration on LCA's (they are likely similar in weight) and all of them are plenty strong.
The 12 bolt rear should be a direct drop in for your factory rear. Some suspension parts don't like to fit a few of the aftermarket rear ends (like ground control "weight jacks" for the rear springs don't like rear ends with fabricated spring mounts....like Moser uses as I remember). As a rule, yes, all of your parts will fit. But, I'd ask if the axle manufacturer uses factory brackets or makes their own. If I could get one that used factory parts, I'd consider that a good idea.
Just my thoughts, I hope this helps out.
Kevin
The advantages to tubular lower control arms (with heim joints, otherwise known as rod ends...or the "race" control arms) is that they eliminate binding of the suspension and allow the axle to "rotate" and move over bumps as intended. I'd not think that weight is a big consieration on LCA's (they are likely similar in weight) and all of them are plenty strong.
The 12 bolt rear should be a direct drop in for your factory rear. Some suspension parts don't like to fit a few of the aftermarket rear ends (like ground control "weight jacks" for the rear springs don't like rear ends with fabricated spring mounts....like Moser uses as I remember). As a rule, yes, all of your parts will fit. But, I'd ask if the axle manufacturer uses factory brackets or makes their own. If I could get one that used factory parts, I'd consider that a good idea.
Just my thoughts, I hope this helps out.
Kevin
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From: Houston, TX
Re: Tubular or boxed? Is there anyway to get whatever I just lost from lowering my car with drop springs? Meaning is there anything that I could add to get that loss of weight transfer? What are the advantages and disadvantages of BMRs lower control arms? Are they worth buying? Id like to do the K-member too, but Im not sure what Im getting myself into and I have no clue is to how to do it. If I was to guess, I would think that the motor would have to be lifted up. Are there any right ups on how to do a k-member swap? I am definately doing sub-frame connectors, but Im just not sure on which ones. I want them to be red, (not like that effects peformance in anyway) just for the fact that I have a red and black scheme going. The ones that I have on there right now are heavy because I fabricated them myself out of steel square tubing and believe me, theyre freakin heavy! I want a good sub-frame connector being light, strong, and doesnt give me clearance problems. Im sure all of them are lighter than the ones that I have. Also, my STB that I have on there now is the one from Hotchkis. Again, I only got that one because it looked the best. I know this sounds rediculous, but Id like to stay with the same brand of suspension. But they dont offer their suspension with any kind of options. I dont like that, but then again, I dont know what any of that means anyway. What I mean by that is that some have rod ends and some have this and that and it all confuses me because I dont know what it is and what its used for. Sorry this is so long, but I just want to get everything that I need the first time. Thanks
Re: Tubular or boxed? This may help.
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...21&fpart=1
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...21&fpart=1
As for the K-member, I'd not recommend that you do that one anytime soon. THey are alot of work and can require some creative adjustements to get them installed and working.
I try to buy the best parts for a job, I really don't stay with one brand...if it is all the same color, even better. Read those posts and if you have more questions, toss them up and we'll try to help out.
Good luck!
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...21&fpart=1
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...21&fpart=1
As for the K-member, I'd not recommend that you do that one anytime soon. THey are alot of work and can require some creative adjustements to get them installed and working.
I try to buy the best parts for a job, I really don't stay with one brand...if it is all the same color, even better. Read those posts and if you have more questions, toss them up and we'll try to help out.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
Re: Tubular or boxed? I plan to do a k-member in the future, but not anytime soon. The reason why I brought it up is because I know that it will free up some weight and I plan to start doing that. Another reason why is because theyre red and I think that it would look really good with the color scheme that Im doing with my car. Anyhow, I read the 2 link that you gave me, but Im not sure that I understand 100%. I dont race the car often; I dont plan to make it a track car only; I drive the car everyday; I want to upgrade my suspension, but dont know what brands and materials to use. Im gonna be driving the car everyday, so I dont want to go too radical with the suspension where its not streetable. However, I do want it to be an upgrade and work really well because I plan to do a 12 bolt in the future and I want to make sure that it holds up when I start launching on it hard. If you could please tell me from what I have told you that I want to do with the car, give me the choice that I should go with as far as tubular or boxed and what materials as far as the bushings go. Thanks. By the way, what are the advantages of the BMR tubular a-arms? Does anyone else make a-arms for f-bodies? How much weight does it free up?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: south bend, IN
Re: Tubular or boxed? I have the slp subframes and they are boxed. I have no clearance issuses with them running the hotchkis springs. I can make it over most speed bumps without a problem, but I'm not sure if the BMRs would, they seem to hang lower.
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From: Houston, TX
Re: Tubular or boxed? How come the SLP SFCs are different then the others? Its seems they have a lot more bracing than the others? Why is that and how come you went with those? Im just looking for a regular set thats strong yet light. Does any one make them in chromoly or any other light-weight metal?
