Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

whats the propper way to bleed the brake system?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

To let all the air out and keep fluid in.
I'm just joking. Could you be a bit more explicit, please? Do you need everything from step one, or just the fact that you start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder, right rear. Then left rear, then right front, and end up at left front.
If you need everything, I am sure there is a Tech article that will tell you start to finish that we could point you to.
Also, we need to know which car it is, the Camaro or the WS6, do you have ABS, traction control, etc.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

thats pretty much what i needed i have abs on both and its for the t/a and no traction control on either

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I read that the Helms manual says to start with the LR, LF, RF, RR.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I suggest that you disregard that information. It has always been farthest first, then next farthest, etc. And my Haynes agrees with me.
It's even that way for my motorcycle with antidive front forks, farthest to closest.
But I am glad you made me look; you have to bleed the ABS modulator first, which was why I asked the question. Let me see if I can find a procedure; I'll post a link.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Can't find an article, but that is the order: ABS, RR, LR, RF, LF.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

how do u bleed the abs?

bison160

iTrader: (1)

yes, I would like to know this too? If anyone knows or could do a complete write up of the complete procedure from start to finish that would be great.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

its pretty easy. this is what i did

remove rubber hose and install the ss line above the rear.
remove rubber hose and install back passanger side ss line then bleed that one only.
remove rubber hose and install back driver side ss line and bleed that only.
remove rubber hose and install front passanger side ss line than bleed that only.
remove rubber hose and install front driver side and ss line bleed that one only.

vary easy took 2 hours all together. and i dont have traction control

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Remove and install? Remove what? Install what?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm wondering about the ABS system also. How do you bleed this? I'd like to get this done properly as I bled everything but that and my BRAKE light won't turn off. Granted my car isn't going anywhere under it's own power any time soon.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

lt1 car u can bleed it seperatly but on ls1 car you dont and cant

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

fixed

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

... been awhile since I've bled my brakes, but, I always just have somebody pump the pedal and hold it to the floor (with the cap off the reservoir) while I loosen the bleeder nuts and re-tighten them. Is it different on a F-Body?

teke184

iTrader: (5)

ok...so what happens if you have Traction control?

and is it me or has nobody said how to bleed the ABS

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

You can't truely bleed the ABS on the LS1. You need to take it to the dealer for that. FWIW, I didn't bleed my ABS and my brakes have felt much better on a normal brake bleed alone and this is on the autox course.

The guy above mentioning to "remove and install" I'm pretty sure is referring to installing steel braided brake lines, which you don't need to do.

I kind of don't blame you for wondering how to really bleed the brakes. There's info online about it, but not exact info on what each single step is. I had to play around with it to figure out what I was doing, but maybe this helps:

1. Siphon old fluid out of reservior
2. Fill reservior with new fluid
3. Have someone who is patient sit in driver seat
4. Starting at rear passenger side, get hose and bottle assembly set up on bleeder screw
5. Command person at driver seat to start pushing brake pedal and immediately turn bleeder screw 1/2 turn
6. Have driver tell you when pedal is all the way down, and then close screw
7. Tell them screw is closed, and then driver releases pedal now, driver tells you when pedal is all the way back
8. Repeat steps 5-7 until all air bubbles are gone and only clean fluid comes through tube.
9. Every once in a while check reservior because fluid will go down. Make sure its filled, and that the cap is closed when you are bleeding.
9. Do the same thing at rear driver, front passenger, and front driver.

This is the ghetto old school way of doing it. There are solo bleeders available, but I've heard they aren't perfect and sometimes leak air into the system. If you have any siezed bleeder screws and completely strip them like I did, buying replacement calipers is affordable from Autozone, just 40 bucks per caliper.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

If you wanted to bleed the ABS or at least get some of the old fluid out of there, then you could do a full fluid flush first. Then take the car on the street and hit the brakes to engage the ABS system fully. Then do a full fluid flush again to get whatever was in the ABS which would now be somewhat distributed in the lines. It's not perfect but it is costs less than bringing it to the dealer to have done with their machine.

Again, I didn't even do this and my brakes are working pretty damn well.

Da Swami

iTrader: (6)

And it didn't set off your ABS light?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Are you asking me that? No I didn't get an ABS light. Did you? I only get the low trac light when the ABS is engaged.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

i didnt get either but the reason i had the ss lines in that is b/c i went from rubber to ss lines and bled them normaly. perfect again and alot firmer feel