LCA relocation brackets - strip only or street friendly?
07-13-2007, 11:53 PM
#1
LCA relocation brackets - strip only or street friendly? I'm putting a 9" rear in, love to launch, have lots of drag mods - but will still be using large sway bars and street shocks for cornering.
Guys that use relocation brackets - how does the change affect street driving and did you improve your launch?
good mod for a street/strip car?
Are weld ins required for a rear other than stock size 10 bolts?
Guys that use relocation brackets - how does the change affect street driving and did you improve your launch?
good mod for a street/strip car?
Are weld ins required for a rear other than stock size 10 bolts?
07-14-2007, 10:27 AM
#2
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Not sure if I can answer all your questions, but the whole purpose of relocation brackets is to adjust the angle of the LCA which inturn would give you more traction and less wheel hop and will def help with your launch. They are a must if your car is lowered due the angle of the LCA being off. With the 9" I think they can only be welded on, not sure though? My car is strictly street and is lowered so I got the bolt-in ones incase I returned it back to stock. Check out UMI's website (sponsor) or better yet call Ryan. He would probably have more info for you in regards to your questions and what you have planned for your set up.
07-14-2007, 11:04 PM
#3
i've installed LCA relocation brackets (UMI bolt-ins), and they are perfectly fine for daily driving. they don't affect normal driveability at all....as stated, the main purpose for them is to help you hook better on launch. "normal" driving is identical to what it was before.
as for whether or not weld-ins are required for a 9", you will have to contact the manufacturer of the parts you are looking to buy, as each of them make them a bit differently.....but if you are going with a 9", i'd do weld-in anyway. the only reason i went with the bolt-in is because i haven't replaced the crappy 10-bolt yet in my car, and didn't want to have to buy a new set when i replace it with a Strange 12-bolt. when i do replace the rear, i can re-use my bolt-ins, and just get them welded in.
as for whether or not weld-ins are required for a 9", you will have to contact the manufacturer of the parts you are looking to buy, as each of them make them a bit differently.....but if you are going with a 9", i'd do weld-in anyway. the only reason i went with the bolt-in is because i haven't replaced the crappy 10-bolt yet in my car, and didn't want to have to buy a new set when i replace it with a Strange 12-bolt. when i do replace the rear, i can re-use my bolt-ins, and just get them welded in.
07-14-2007, 11:42 PM
#4
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Weld it. I know it takes more effort. I know you might have to pay someone to do it. It will be more predictable. There are rumors and stories about bolt holes stretching and parts migrating... just weld it. It'll be stronger and weigh less. Make sure you get adjustable LCA's and not double poly ended (does not allow for twist, causing broken parts).
07-15-2007, 02:49 AM
#5
ok
the rear came with brackets welded on
as his car was lowered he used the lower holes.
so - in order to bolt my arms into the bottom mount holes, I need adjustables? I have Hotchkis boxed already and just bought an SLP adjustable tq arm to go in at the same time...I have to buy adjustable control arms now in order to try the lower mount for increased traction - and go to the stock mount hole if desired?
Isn't this all about setting the pinion angle?
Or is having the longer arm/different geometry of the lower mounting hole and same pinion angle will help launch?
the rear came with brackets welded on
as his car was lowered he used the lower holes.so - in order to bolt my arms into the bottom mount holes, I need adjustables? I have Hotchkis boxed already and just bought an SLP adjustable tq arm to go in at the same time...I have to buy adjustable control arms now in order to try the lower mount for increased traction - and go to the stock mount hole if desired?
Isn't this all about setting the pinion angle?
Or is having the longer arm/different geometry of the lower mounting hole and same pinion angle will help launch?
07-15-2007, 03:32 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Shock Hawk
Weld it. I know it takes more effort. I know you might have to pay someone to do it. It will be more predictable. There are rumors and stories about bolt holes stretching and parts migrating... just weld it. It'll be stronger and weigh less. Make sure you get adjustable LCA's and not double poly ended (does not allow for twist, causing broken parts).
07-15-2007, 06:46 AM
#7
so let me get this right....i have lowered my 99 formy with eibach pro kit drop springs..now i have to get relocation brackets even tho i already have the following mods...BMR SFC, LCA, TQ Arm, Adj. Panhardrod, Bilstein shocks, and Ds loop...if i need these for racing and they will * help* with daily driving then what kind do i have to have...please let me know...helpfull info too
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07-15-2007, 11:50 AM
#8
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Let me put it this way, relocation brackets decrease binding that you don't know is happening. I have a friend who messed up the gears in his 10 bolt because of his wheel hop. Relocation brackets will eliminate that when used properly.
07-15-2007, 12:24 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by chief455
so - in order to bolt my arms into the bottom mount holes, I need adjustables?
I used to make brackets and sell em on cz28, the holes should be set up in an arc (radius being the length of the lca)
use the adjustable arms to fine tune rearend so that it is centered and straight
saw positive results using my brackets and spohn lca's on my bolt-on LT1 (3k stall and 3.23s) cutting 1.6x sixty ft times on nittos pretty regularly
07-15-2007, 12:32 PM
#11
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They are a good mod regardless but you will need LCA brackets if the car is lowered for sure. You get maximum traction with the LCA arms parallel to the ground. When you lower the car the arms will point to the sky and will never have proper suspension alignment except when you are braking because the car will dive and he arms will level out. Usually or road racing you want the arms parallel to the ground when the car is static. Drag racing with sticky tires you would want them to angle down a bit when the car is static because when you launch on sticky tires the suspension will compress which will level the arms and get maximum traction. Its a good mod in general and give a very good tuning option.
LCA brackets will have no effect on daily driving.
LCA brackets will have no effect on daily driving.
07-15-2007, 04:57 PM
#12
Originally Posted by fast
no.
I used to make brackets and sell em on cz28, the holes should be set up in an arc (radius being the length of the lca)
use the adjustable arms to fine tune rearend so that it is centered and straight
saw positive results using my brackets and spohn lca's on my bolt-on LT1 (3k stall and 3.23s) cutting 1.6x sixty ft times on nittos pretty regularly
I used to make brackets and sell em on cz28, the holes should be set up in an arc (radius being the length of the lca)
use the adjustable arms to fine tune rearend so that it is centered and straight
saw positive results using my brackets and spohn lca's on my bolt-on LT1 (3k stall and 3.23s) cutting 1.6x sixty ft times on nittos pretty regularly
I have Hotchkis boxed poly mount arms and adjustable panhard - with my SLP adjustable tq arm and the adjustable panhard - should I be pretty set to center and get pinion angle using the lower mounting holes on the relocation brackets? Still set pinion angle as recommended - this is about mounting point geometry - NOT pinion angle - right?
If I must get adjustable LCA'S -
do you agree that poly/poly adjustable LCA's are not good?
More common to find a good deal used - and concerned about rod end mounting causing noise/chassis harmonics on the street. I hated my Spohn crossmember mounted tq arm because of that - and went back to a trans mounted tq arm.
07-15-2007, 07:50 PM
#13
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i have them and i noticed less squat out of stops DDing. mine are on the lowest setting so they are angled pretty good to the ground. non adjustable control arms too.
07-15-2007, 08:40 PM
#14
cool - multiple replies answered my questions 
I'll use the Hotchkis boxed arms. mounted in the lower holes for better launch, use the Hotchkis adj panhard to center and the SLP tq arm to set pinion angle of the 9" rear with welded relocation brackets.
I can try the upper arm mounts to improve handling without needing to adjust control arm length - just check pinion angle and center/square of rear again...I think
I'll use the Hotchkis boxed arms. mounted in the lower holes for better launch, use the Hotchkis adj panhard to center and the SLP tq arm to set pinion angle of the 9" rear with welded relocation brackets.
I can try the upper arm mounts to improve handling without needing to adjust control arm length - just check pinion angle and center/square of rear again...I think
Last edited by chief455; 07-15-2007 at 08:46 PM.
