Front Spring and Shock Install Question
Front Spring and Shock Install Question I just got a few large boxes from UPS.......YEAHHHHHHH!!!
Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks.
I have a shop manual and have read a few instructions from on line.
The shop manual says to remove the bottom ball joint. Some of the online procedures say remove the top ball joint.
Soooooo which is easier, better, faster?????
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Have fun...............
Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks.
I have a shop manual and have read a few instructions from on line.
The shop manual says to remove the bottom ball joint. Some of the online procedures say remove the top ball joint.
Soooooo which is easier, better, faster?????
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Have fun...............
I would say remove the top ball joint so that the spindle will hang out of your way. But I've never done it before so I guess I cant really give 100% accurate advise. Just seems like it would be better that way to me.
I don't think I removed either one. I removed the swaybar. Removed the brake caliper and hang it with wire, not the fluid hose. Then, unbolted the upper shock mounts (inside the engine bay, on the wheel well). The upper arm will then start to rotate out towards you, while the lower arm fold underneath the car. Unbolted the two bottom bolts and slid it out.
Didn't have to worry about damaging ball joints or getting some kind of pickle-fork separator.
Didn't have to worry about damaging ball joints or getting some kind of pickle-fork separator.
Well there yah go. Someone who has actually done it themself. I had it installed for me.
I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch. They range in strengths:
Stage 1 : 425+ ft./lbs
Stage 2 : 530+ ft./lbs
Stage 2+ : 620+ ft./lbs
Stage 3 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 3+ : 850+ ft./lbs
Stage 4 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 5 : 1050+ ft./lbs
I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch. They range in strengths:
Stage 1 : 425+ ft./lbs
Stage 2 : 530+ ft./lbs
Stage 2+ : 620+ ft./lbs
Stage 3 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 3+ : 850+ ft./lbs
Stage 4 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 5 : 1050+ ft./lbs
Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram
I don't think I removed either one. I removed the swaybar. Removed the brake caliper and hang it with wire, not the fluid hose. Then, unbolted the upper shock mounts (inside the engine bay, on the wheel well). The upper arm will then start to rotate out towards you, while the lower arm fold underneath the car. Unbolted the two bottom bolts and slid it out.
Didn't have to worry about damaging ball joints or getting some kind of pickle-fork separator.
Didn't have to worry about damaging ball joints or getting some kind of pickle-fork separator.
Enjoy and have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by michaelg589
Well there yah go. Someone who has actually done it themself. I had it installed for me.
I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch. They range in strengths:
Stage 1 : 425+ ft./lbs
Stage 2 : 530+ ft./lbs
Stage 2+ : 620+ ft./lbs
Stage 3 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 3+ : 850+ ft./lbs
Stage 4 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 5 : 1050+ ft./lbs
I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch. They range in strengths:
Stage 1 : 425+ ft./lbs
Stage 2 : 530+ ft./lbs
Stage 2+ : 620+ ft./lbs
Stage 3 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 3+ : 850+ ft./lbs
Stage 4 : 700+ ft./lbs
Stage 5 : 1050+ ft./lbs
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Greggy
top ball joint works. Comes out easy with a BFH to the iron spindle part.
Hope it dont come out and bite me........
"ponies are for little girls"........
