is chromoly worth it?
and also, i'm leaning towards UMI or spohn. if they're close to the same in quality i'll go with UMI for the price. does anybody have any negative expieriences with either brand? and i'll be looking for SFC's, lower control arms, and a panhard rod. thanks.
if its just for an average street car then no its not really worth it. but if youre making a track car and trying to save every ounce then yes it is. its not any stronger really, its just lighter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
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From: Evansville, IN
To the average joe, no chromemoly is not worth the extra money. But I build all my own suspension, and it is all chromemoly, you get a slight weight savings. And yes it is stronger, that is why you can use a thinner wall tubing. Mild steel and chromemoly have no difference in weight per foot. But you can use say 0.095 wall on a control arm instead of 0.120 with mild steel.
Originally Posted by Ericbigmac83
if its just for an average street car then no its not really worth it. but if youre making a track car and trying to save every ounce then yes it is. its not any stronger really, its just lighter
I think i might be a little stronger but i'm not sure off hand. TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
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From: Evansville, IN
Originally Posted by Dex
I think i might be a little stronger but i'm not sure off hand. in that case i woudn't be able to justify chromoly since its a bolt-on street car that i'd be lucky to get into the 11's. so with that said, is spohn any better than UMI?
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Verdad Gallardo how much ground clearance will i loose with your boxed sfc's as opposed to the tube sfc's? i plan on running the TSP true dual system so i doubt they would hang any lower than my pipes anyway. and will one of your torque arms fit with the TSP true dual system? thanks a lot.
Neither the boxed or tubular style SFC will reduce ground clearance. The boxed do hang lower then the tubular design but are not the lowest part of the car. I always say if you want someone to see your SFC's from the side at a distance go with the boxed style. If you want them hidden and want them to tuck up tight go with the tubular design. All the SFC's we offer will clear with all exhaust systems, including the TSP true duals.
For a torque arm, we do offer a torque arm designed to clear with the TSP system and it actually allows the exhaust to tuck up tighter into the car compared to the stock torque arm. Below is a picture of this arm installed with a TSP system, also if you click on the link there is addtional installation pictures.
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I am glad to help. Thank you!
www.umiperformance.com/2205
For a torque arm, we do offer a torque arm designed to clear with the TSP system and it actually allows the exhaust to tuck up tighter into the car compared to the stock torque arm. Below is a picture of this arm installed with a TSP system, also if you click on the link there is addtional installation pictures.
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I am glad to help. Thank you!
www.umiperformance.com/2205
In essence it is, but depends on what you do. If you at all race, having the most power and lightest weight is very important, now this is much more costly. Most drivers try to take out weight 1st and when upgrading, go from Mild steel to chromoly.
I am currently helping with a race car running mid 10's @ 127 on motor, with a 34XX race weight, the car is at the point it needs to start adding lightend components such as k member and removing the rest of the power equipment. These changes effect the 60' and how the car xfer's weight to the tire. This car responds to small changes since its really dialed in. In a ave street car this isnt "AS" important but still important none the less.
The big question is, how deep is your pockets?
I am currently helping with a race car running mid 10's @ 127 on motor, with a 34XX race weight, the car is at the point it needs to start adding lightend components such as k member and removing the rest of the power equipment. These changes effect the 60' and how the car xfer's weight to the tire. This car responds to small changes since its really dialed in. In a ave street car this isnt "AS" important but still important none the less.
The big question is, how deep is your pockets?
i'm going to go with the mild steel and put the extra money toward other parts. and thanks for the pics of the TSP system with your parts installed, it was exactly what i was looking for
You can find more pictures and information on our site as well at www.umiperformance.com or feel free to call or PM.
Ryan
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
I'm just trying to figure out WHY the SCCA forbids the use of chromoly in roll cages (and requires DOM mild steel). Whereas, we all know that the NHRA feels that chromoly is perfectly fine/safe, even in 340mph funny car cages.
Given. But is there ANY chance that the chromoly is more "brittle" than the mild steel??
I'm just trying to figure out WHY the SCCA forbids the use of chromoly in roll cages (and requires DOM mild steel). Whereas, we all know that the NHRA feels that chromoly is perfectly fine/safe, even in 340mph funny car cages.
I'm just trying to figure out WHY the SCCA forbids the use of chromoly in roll cages (and requires DOM mild steel). Whereas, we all know that the NHRA feels that chromoly is perfectly fine/safe, even in 340mph funny car cages.
no colonel sanders, you're wrong, i'm right
the chromoly is stronger if the weights are the same, so they can take weight out of the chromoly and still have it be the same relative strength. if a chromoly lca had the same wall thickness of the steel counterpart then yes it would be stronger, but they thin the walls to save weight, therefore the strengths come out to be about the same
the chromoly is stronger if the weights are the same, so they can take weight out of the chromoly and still have it be the same relative strength. if a chromoly lca had the same wall thickness of the steel counterpart then yes it would be stronger, but they thin the walls to save weight, therefore the strengths come out to be about the same
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
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From: Ventura County, California
C-moly is stronger than mild steel, c-moly because it is made out of thinner material is lighter.
The only place in my opinion pays to buy c-moly is with a roll cage because there is SO much tubing.
Going from a c-moly lower control arm to a mild steel control arm is like 1 or 2 pounds, personally I wouldn't pay 1.00 to save 1 or two pounds.
C-moly will have a higher resale value.
Both work fine in any street car. Talk to chassis people like the guy from UMI he can tell you how much weight you save c-moly vs mild steel.
Remember 100 pounds in theory is worth 0.10 in the 1/4 mile.
So the question is will you pay hundreds of dollars more to run a 12.50 vs a 12.54?
Personally I wouldn't but then again, I'm not rich, if I was sure why not buy c-moly everything =)
The only place in my opinion pays to buy c-moly is with a roll cage because there is SO much tubing.
Going from a c-moly lower control arm to a mild steel control arm is like 1 or 2 pounds, personally I wouldn't pay 1.00 to save 1 or two pounds.
C-moly will have a higher resale value.
Both work fine in any street car. Talk to chassis people like the guy from UMI he can tell you how much weight you save c-moly vs mild steel.
Remember 100 pounds in theory is worth 0.10 in the 1/4 mile.
So the question is will you pay hundreds of dollars more to run a 12.50 vs a 12.54?
Personally I wouldn't but then again, I'm not rich, if I was sure why not buy c-moly everything =)
