whats the best panhard rod
10-13-2007, 02:43 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
whats the best panhard rod i want a double adjustable phr but whats the best and crapiest does it matter on the material? whos the cheapest? does anyone have one for sale?
10-13-2007, 03:04 PM
#4
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
or aluminum
I have J&M Aluminum rod/rod LCAs and Panhard Bar and I love them. Light weight and really improvement my handling when compared to my Spohn poly/poly bars. They were alittle less than $300, even less (tax) if you live outside of CA.
Their products can be found on ebay
I have J&M Aluminum rod/rod LCAs and Panhard Bar and I love them. Light weight and really improvement my handling when compared to my Spohn poly/poly bars. They were alittle less than $300, even less (tax) if you live outside of CA.
Their products can be found on ebay
10-13-2007, 03:10 PM
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aluminum is just fine for LCAs and Panhard Bars. There are guys using these exact parts that are into hardcore autocrossing. You can get them for about 120 shipped on ebay.
Trending Topics
10-13-2007, 03:30 PM
#9
TECH Regular
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Gretna, VA
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sphoon adj here no probs at all works fine and gets **** on daily now the rear end is total **** im on my 4th set up and its already whinnig weak *** 10 bolts
Last edited by ksk1980; 10-13-2007 at 03:35 PM.
10-13-2007, 03:49 PM
#10
I am not saying aluminum won't work but out of those choices I'd go with steel or moly before that. The only real advantage I would see is weight. These cars are pigs, I would want the strongest bar.
10-13-2007, 06:24 PM
#11
I believe you'll find most manufactures that are designing them are all going to be very similar since almost everyone now using XM rod ends etc etc.
...Our double adjustable 4130 PHR's using XM series rod ends are on sale for 139.99 AND they come with new 1/2" upgraded bolt kits.
Whether they use 4130 or 1020 mild steel doesn't make one bit of difference, they deflect EXACTLY the same using the same diameter and wall thickness tubing. Aluminum bars that I've seen...calculating comes to actually greater deflection then just about any steel PHR bar that are typically out there.
www.sjmmanufacturing.com/deals.html is the sale location. All are in stock and typically ship within 24 business hours.
...Our double adjustable 4130 PHR's using XM series rod ends are on sale for 139.99 AND they come with new 1/2" upgraded bolt kits.
Whether they use 4130 or 1020 mild steel doesn't make one bit of difference, they deflect EXACTLY the same using the same diameter and wall thickness tubing. Aluminum bars that I've seen...calculating comes to actually greater deflection then just about any steel PHR bar that are typically out there.
www.sjmmanufacturing.com/deals.html is the sale location. All are in stock and typically ship within 24 business hours.
10-14-2007, 05:37 AM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Greater Chattanooga
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get a chrome moly ones. UMI is the popurlar one, but SJM looks really good too (just need to paint yourself).
YOu want double rod ends and chrome moly. UMI is 169.99 and SJM is bit cheaper if your own a budget and can paint yours.
Good luck
YOu want double rod ends and chrome moly. UMI is 169.99 and SJM is bit cheaper if your own a budget and can paint yours.
Good luck
10-14-2007, 08:33 AM
#14
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
www.umiperformance.com/2023
10-14-2007, 09:46 AM
#15
10-14-2007, 03:23 PM
#16
Our pieces are pulse tig'd and sequenced to ensure proper penetration and repeatability. I'm sure you'd be satisfied with whichever setup you choose.
Good luck, let me know if you need additional help.
10-15-2007, 10:43 AM
#18
one thing you may want to consider is the method that the rods adjust.
i have the UMI D/A, and it does take a little bit of thinking to adjust it without removing one end of it. the mounting tabs on (i think) the passenger's side sorta prevent a wrench from being able to fit in there to tighten the jam nut.
instead, what i did was loosen both jam nuts a lot, then turned the rod itself to get it adjusted to the right size. then, once it was set correctly, i loosened it back up just a tad (made the bar about 1/8" longer), then loosely threaded the jam nut on the passenger side down to the bar, then tightened the bar into the jam nut, instead of the jam nut into the bar (this method doesn't require near as much torque to hold the jam nut in place while the bar is tightened).
then on the driver's side (i put the hex side of the bar on this side), i just held the hex on the bar with a wrench and turned the jam nut into the bar.
if you didn't necessarily want to go rod/rod, i think BMR has a poly/poly adjustable bar that has a double-threaded adjustment right in the center of the bar for easy access & adjustment....although it would still be adjustable, you would have the downside of increased deflection due to the poly bushings, vs. the non-deflection of the rod-ends on a bar like the UMI piece.
personally, i would get a rod/rod bar....mine did not introduce any new noticeable noise, and it helps quite a bit over a poly/poly or rubber/rubber bushing. the material is up to you, but i would personally get either mild steel or chrome moly, i just don't think i would trust an aluminum part for a PHR or LCA's. aluminum may work fine, but you know for sure that steel or moly will hold up.
i have the UMI D/A, and it does take a little bit of thinking to adjust it without removing one end of it. the mounting tabs on (i think) the passenger's side sorta prevent a wrench from being able to fit in there to tighten the jam nut.
instead, what i did was loosen both jam nuts a lot, then turned the rod itself to get it adjusted to the right size. then, once it was set correctly, i loosened it back up just a tad (made the bar about 1/8" longer), then loosely threaded the jam nut on the passenger side down to the bar, then tightened the bar into the jam nut, instead of the jam nut into the bar (this method doesn't require near as much torque to hold the jam nut in place while the bar is tightened).
then on the driver's side (i put the hex side of the bar on this side), i just held the hex on the bar with a wrench and turned the jam nut into the bar.
if you didn't necessarily want to go rod/rod, i think BMR has a poly/poly adjustable bar that has a double-threaded adjustment right in the center of the bar for easy access & adjustment....although it would still be adjustable, you would have the downside of increased deflection due to the poly bushings, vs. the non-deflection of the rod-ends on a bar like the UMI piece.
personally, i would get a rod/rod bar....mine did not introduce any new noticeable noise, and it helps quite a bit over a poly/poly or rubber/rubber bushing. the material is up to you, but i would personally get either mild steel or chrome moly, i just don't think i would trust an aluminum part for a PHR or LCA's. aluminum may work fine, but you know for sure that steel or moly will hold up.
10-15-2007, 06:29 PM
#20
At the time I went for LGMotorsports G2 double-adj rod-ended PHR, no complaints, beefiest adj. PHR I ever found. 
I could see buying UMI or Spohn, I've heard great reviews on both companies.
Shoot I'd even do SJM, looks like they know what they're doing.
I could see buying UMI or Spohn, I've heard great reviews on both companies.
Shoot I'd even do SJM, looks like they know what they're doing.
