whats the general opinion on brembo rotors?
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my rotors are really gettin worn down so i figure i may as well get something better. Ive been looking and i was wondering whats the general opinion on brembo crossdrilled rotors. I know its a stupid reason to buy a certain brake, but i also love the way crossdrilled rotors look on cars to.
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I was going to get Brembos on my car a few years ago, but was told by the owner of the shop that Baer's were pretty much the same but far less. (I like the cross-drilled look as well) So I went with them and have had them on my car for 2-3 yrs now and haven't had a problem. I love them, they stop way better than previous rotors I had. I warped the stock ones a long time ago, then tried powerslots...those worked for maybe a year and got warped. Just my 2 cents.
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my rotors are really gettin worn down so i figure i may as well get something better. Ive been looking and i was wondering whats the general opinion on brembo crossdrilled rotors. I know its a stupid reason to buy a certain brake, but i also love the way crossdrilled rotors look on cars to.
Before buying them, check out the brake sticky. I wouldn't ever use cross drilled rotors on my current car because they don't really help for performance reasons with normal brakepads, but I'm also not going for looks like other people who like the cross drilled/slots. I live with my rusty brembo blanks because they are durable for what I do
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if you're replacing only the rotors (and not going with a full brake kit), then just get some Brembo blanks & be done with it. they usually resist warping a lot better than some AutoZone replacements, as long as you take the time to "bed" the pads properly and take it easy on hard braking for the first 100 - 200 miles
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Are you thinking about getting a whole brembo brake kit including calipers? I'm trying to figure out why you are asking the question and that's what I'm guessing you were thinking. If you were, you can get crossdrilled rotors on the stock brakes.
Before buying them, check out the brake sticky. I wouldn't ever use cross drilled rotors on my current car because they don't really help for performance reasons with normal brakepads, but I'm also not going for looks like other people who like the cross drilled/slots. I live with my rusty brembo blanks because they are durable for what I do![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Before buying them, check out the brake sticky. I wouldn't ever use cross drilled rotors on my current car because they don't really help for performance reasons with normal brakepads, but I'm also not going for looks like other people who like the cross drilled/slots. I live with my rusty brembo blanks because they are durable for what I do
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Too hard to quantify. I have smooth rotors and have had the same pads for 45,000 miles and there's still plenty of meat on them. I heard a guy a few weeks ago that changed his pads 3 times in just as many miles with drilled rotors. But that doesn't necessarily mean 3 times the pad wear. He was probably using different pads and he may be 3 times as hard on his brakes as I am.
But still, are you buying something that you depend on to save your life based on how it looks?
Besides that, drilled rotors just kinda look ricer-ish to me. But thats just my opinion.
But still, are you buying something that you depend on to save your life based on how it looks?
Besides that, drilled rotors just kinda look ricer-ish to me. But thats just my opinion.
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this discussion has come up many, many, many times in the past, and there's not really any new information that would lead someone to come to a different conclusion.
you're not really going to notice much actual wear on the rotor itself, unless something happens to get wedged in between the pad and the rotor and gouge into it (which, ironically, would happen a lot easier on a drilled/slotted rotor).
the main thing here is that the drilled and/or slotted rotors are going to eat away at your brake pads a lot quicker, due to the non-smooth edges....kinda like putting your pads through an electric cheese grater. also, you have to worry about the rotors cracking when they are slotted/drilled. since it is an uneven surface, the edges of the drilled holes/milled slots are going to cause little "hot spots", which can lead to the rotors cracking. in most cases, the cracks are mostly cosmetic, but there is always the chance that it can later lead to a catastrophic failure, where the rotor breaks into separate pieces. after all, what happens when you heat something up a lot, then cool it down very rapidly (such as running them through a puddle of water)? if there are hairline cracks, it may be just enough to cause it to fail.
even brake manufacturers have notices on their pages that drilling/slotting rotors doesn't really help for a street-driven car. see Baer's FAQ page and read the second question/answer.
so once again, for a street-driven, non-race car, just get some quality "blank" rotors like the Brembo blanks i mentioned earlier....the Brembo blanks will resist warping a lot longer than cheap AutoZone replacements
if you're looking to improve the looks, just put on some good blanks, leave them on for a couple hundred miles, then remove them again and paint the "hats" of the rotors (the part in the center that doesn't contact the brake pads) with some high-temp engine enamel, then do the same thing to the calipers.
you're not really going to notice much actual wear on the rotor itself, unless something happens to get wedged in between the pad and the rotor and gouge into it (which, ironically, would happen a lot easier on a drilled/slotted rotor).
the main thing here is that the drilled and/or slotted rotors are going to eat away at your brake pads a lot quicker, due to the non-smooth edges....kinda like putting your pads through an electric cheese grater. also, you have to worry about the rotors cracking when they are slotted/drilled. since it is an uneven surface, the edges of the drilled holes/milled slots are going to cause little "hot spots", which can lead to the rotors cracking. in most cases, the cracks are mostly cosmetic, but there is always the chance that it can later lead to a catastrophic failure, where the rotor breaks into separate pieces. after all, what happens when you heat something up a lot, then cool it down very rapidly (such as running them through a puddle of water)? if there are hairline cracks, it may be just enough to cause it to fail.
even brake manufacturers have notices on their pages that drilling/slotting rotors doesn't really help for a street-driven car. see Baer's FAQ page and read the second question/answer.
so once again, for a street-driven, non-race car, just get some quality "blank" rotors like the Brembo blanks i mentioned earlier....the Brembo blanks will resist warping a lot longer than cheap AutoZone replacements
if you're looking to improve the looks, just put on some good blanks, leave them on for a couple hundred miles, then remove them again and paint the "hats" of the rotors (the part in the center that doesn't contact the brake pads) with some high-temp engine enamel, then do the same thing to the calipers.
Last edited by 02Z28LS1; 10-19-2007 at 11:49 PM.
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i was just trying to get just new rotors to replace stock ones. But after reading everything here i gotta ask, is there a really huge difference in the wear down of the rotors between cross drilled and blanks? I mean i already assumed the drilled ones would last less because its kinda common sense since theres less rotor there, but Im going for looks on this car for the next year and a half or so until i got the money to do some serious motor work. If crossdrilled have a very noticable decrease in life compared to blanks, then i guess i can sacrifice the awesome look of crossdrilled for a better product, but if the life isnt that far apart, then i'll probably go with drilled anyway.
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alright well after a lot of thougth i think ive decided to get the c5 brakes conversion that is unless people have had bad experiences with them. But what iw as wondering is whats the difference between
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
and
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
they look the same to me but im curious why ones 200 cheaper. does the UMI name really mean that much even if its just the title?
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
and
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
they look the same to me but im curious why ones 200 cheaper. does the UMI name really mean that much even if its just the title?
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alright well after a lot of thougth i think ive decided to get the c5 brakes conversion that is unless people have had bad experiences with them. But what iw as wondering is whats the difference between
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
and
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
they look the same to me but im curious why ones 200 cheaper. does the UMI name really mean that much even if its just the title?
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
and
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...48a738e1ef5236
they look the same to me but im curious why ones 200 cheaper. does the UMI name really mean that much even if its just the title?
Hope that helps!
Ryan
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Brembo cast iron casting are superior. They are made in left and right components and the fins beween the inner and outer rotor are slanted and are designed to channel air in and to cool the unit.
Other rotors are usuallly not front/right specific and tend to not channel air at all.
All-in-all these are great. get the non-drilled, non-slotted versons for the very best performance.
Other rotors are usuallly not front/right specific and tend to not channel air at all.
All-in-all these are great. get the non-drilled, non-slotted versons for the very best performance.