Torque Arm Clearence Issue
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From: Ellicott City,MD
Torque Arm Clearence Issue I have a Spohn torque arm w/ds loop on my 00' TA and when my transmission downshifts the torque arm hits the floorboard. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone know how to fix it?
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: Ellicott City,MD
Thats what my local shop that installed it said. They said they see it alot with the spohn's. I have a friend that has the same torque arm with a 12bolt in a 00' ws6 and he doesn't have any problems. That makes me think there has to be a way to fix it.
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you guys sure its not the rear end contacting the floorpan?
9" rears, it is common for that to happen. dont know about the S60 tho.
also, do you guys have adjustable panhards? it could be something as simple as adjusting the rear end to one side or the other via the PHR...
take some measurements of how the rear end sits under the car from side to side and see if that is a possible option/fix
9" rears, it is common for that to happen. dont know about the S60 tho.
also, do you guys have adjustable panhards? it could be something as simple as adjusting the rear end to one side or the other via the PHR...
take some measurements of how the rear end sits under the car from side to side and see if that is a possible option/fix
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I installed a 9" last winter and the bracket off the 9" housing hit the tunnel as well as a few spots on the torque arm. Sure there is a solution, a heavy mallet and some banging. My brand new 3.5" aluminum driveshaft acutaly hit the rear passenger seat belt mount and took a small gouge out of it all the way around. After that i banged the heck outta the tunnel area where needed, an adjustable panhard bar could probably move the rearend side to side to center it if you need.
It's prolly not hitting the floor board, prolly just the normal clunking associated with tunnel mounted TAs. You need to tighten the crap out of where the arm meets the crossbar.
it may be the pivot on the front of your torque arm hitting the driveshaft loop. i have this problem with my UMI torque arm and moser 9. and yes it makes some sort of vibrating grinding noise at highway speeds.. it's really irritating when you drop $4 racks in suspension and rear end and **** is hitting and banging.. oh yeah and if you take your carpet off, the sheetmetal on the tunnel has probably already punctured through.. behind the seat to the right of the tunnel and right next to the driveside rear seat belt buckle WOOHOO!!! =) not... coming from the supra world where everything aftermarket fits perfect but costs 2X more, i've come to terms that nothing on these cars fit good... even if the rear end was even more rediculously priced, i would have gladly payed if the **** would actually fit correctly..whatever
Hello,
Bigsticksupra- I suggest before buying that type of set-up maybe you should have done some research on it? That rear end and that torque arm are designed to power single digit cars down a 1/4 mile track. I am not sure of the mods of your vehicle but I can't imagine you needing that set-up. When you install items made to handle 800+ HP what you are seeing is common, I don't care what type of car it is, Supra, Camaro or Mustang ect. My suggestion would have been to speak with someone before purchasing any items for your car.. a smaller rear end like a 12-bolt may have been a better fit for you. Sometimes I wonder why people buy the biggest strongest items they can get for a 350 HP daily driver? We see it all the time and it drives me crazy. Then they wonder why they can't take there car on a 3000 mile round trip with ou noise and bad gas mileage.
Bigsticksupra- I suggest before buying that type of set-up maybe you should have done some research on it? That rear end and that torque arm are designed to power single digit cars down a 1/4 mile track. I am not sure of the mods of your vehicle but I can't imagine you needing that set-up. When you install items made to handle 800+ HP what you are seeing is common, I don't care what type of car it is, Supra, Camaro or Mustang ect. My suggestion would have been to speak with someone before purchasing any items for your car.. a smaller rear end like a 12-bolt may have been a better fit for you. Sometimes I wonder why people buy the biggest strongest items they can get for a 350 HP daily driver? We see it all the time and it drives me crazy. Then they wonder why they can't take there car on a 3000 mile round trip with ou noise and bad gas mileage.
it may be the pivot on the front of your torque arm hitting the driveshaft loop. i have this problem with my UMI torque arm and moser 9. and yes it makes some sort of vibrating grinding noise at highway speeds.. it's really irritating when you drop $4 racks in suspension and rear end and **** is hitting and banging.. oh yeah and if you take your carpet off, the sheetmetal on the tunnel has probably already punctured through.. behind the seat to the right of the tunnel and right next to the driveside rear seat belt buckle WOOHOO!!! =) not... coming from the supra world where everything aftermarket fits perfect but costs 2X more, i've come to terms that nothing on these cars fit good... even if the rear end was even more rediculously priced, i would have gladly payed if the **** would actually fit correctly..whatever
I have built everything from Supras to Mustangs to Pro Mod cars. EVERYTHING needs some massaging for it to fit to your liking. I dont care how much it costs nothing ever fits perfect. That is why most people take their stuff to experienced installers. If you arent willing to modify your car to make your aftermarket parts fit then you really need to
There are clearance issues on everyones tunnel mounted torque arms AND 9" or S60 rears. I usually get everything installed and make sure the rearend is centered in the car. Then I use a large pry bar to "massage" the tunnel and floorpan. You have to remember these cars never were intended for these beefier parts. Also you will always have some noise since you have replaced the cheap rubber bushings to aftermarket stronger stuff.
Honestly, when it comes to pretty much anything i do, i like to do things once and do it right the first time. My current set-up is probably an overkill since the car only makes 550, but like i said, i wanted to do things right the first time. I definitely have bigger plans in the future for this car so those 'biggest and strongest' parts will come into use. The UMI torque arm is a great torque arm, but it does have some clearance issues when used with the Moser 9...and to be fair, I had a Spohn torque arm before the UMI, and it also contacted the tunnel.
Are you saying i shouldn't have bought my entire suspension from your company??
PS - i would really appreciate it if you could tell me how to properly shorten my torque arm, Thanks.
Are you saying i shouldn't have bought my entire suspension from your company??
PS - i would really appreciate it if you could tell me how to properly shorten my torque arm, Thanks.
Hello,
Bigsticksupra- I suggest before buying that type of set-up maybe you should have done some research on it? That rear end and that torque arm are designed to power single digit cars down a 1/4 mile track. I am not sure of the mods of your vehicle but I can't imagine you needing that set-up. When you install items made to handle 800+ HP what you are seeing is common, I don't care what type of car it is, Supra, Camaro or Mustang ect. My suggestion would have been to speak with someone before purchasing any items for your car.. a smaller rear end like a 12-bolt may have been a better fit for you. Sometimes I wonder why people buy the biggest strongest items they can get for a 350 HP daily driver? We see it all the time and it drives me crazy. Then they wonder why they can't take there car on a 3000 mile round trip with ou noise and bad gas mileage.
Bigsticksupra- I suggest before buying that type of set-up maybe you should have done some research on it? That rear end and that torque arm are designed to power single digit cars down a 1/4 mile track. I am not sure of the mods of your vehicle but I can't imagine you needing that set-up. When you install items made to handle 800+ HP what you are seeing is common, I don't care what type of car it is, Supra, Camaro or Mustang ect. My suggestion would have been to speak with someone before purchasing any items for your car.. a smaller rear end like a 12-bolt may have been a better fit for you. Sometimes I wonder why people buy the biggest strongest items they can get for a 350 HP daily driver? We see it all the time and it drives me crazy. Then they wonder why they can't take there car on a 3000 mile round trip with ou noise and bad gas mileage.
Hi,
No I am not saying you shouldn't have boughten our torque arm, I was trying to point out the consequences when running these types of items. Especially when you start mixing items, when you install that arm with a factory rear end you don't have the near the trouble, but the Moser 9 makes it worse.
We will be happy to help you shorten your torque arm and get it adjusted properly. However it is hard to explain by e-mail, I would rather you called and spoke with my tech support guy Jerry. But if you can't call please e-mail Jerry at jerry@umiperformance.com and he will get you fixed up.
Thank you,
Ryan
No I am not saying you shouldn't have boughten our torque arm, I was trying to point out the consequences when running these types of items. Especially when you start mixing items, when you install that arm with a factory rear end you don't have the near the trouble, but the Moser 9 makes it worse.
We will be happy to help you shorten your torque arm and get it adjusted properly. However it is hard to explain by e-mail, I would rather you called and spoke with my tech support guy Jerry. But if you can't call please e-mail Jerry at jerry@umiperformance.com and he will get you fixed up.
Thank you,
Ryan
