Still have whell hop after UMI LCA. (HELP)
11-07-2007, 03:27 PM
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Still have whell hop after UMI LCA. (HELP) Heres the deal, my car is a 98 SS
It has hotchkis 1" lowering springs, SLP weld-in SFC's, And shitty De carbon shocks. Never had wheel hop until i replaced my slipping clutch. Then had wheel hop when i launched, when i grabed 2nd gear, and 3rd.
So i thought replacing my LCA's would fix it. So i bought UMI Poly/Rod LCA's + there Relocation brackets. I had access to a lift. The install went ok, but when there is no load on the rear it seems like it is about an inch toward the driver side. Anyways got them in, didn't tighten them until i loaded the rear.
I also put them in the lower setting on the relocation brackets.
AND I STILL HAVE WHEEL HOP.
HELP ME UMI, OR ANYONE WHO KNOWS WHAT CAN BE WRONG.
It has hotchkis 1" lowering springs, SLP weld-in SFC's, And shitty De carbon shocks. Never had wheel hop until i replaced my slipping clutch. Then had wheel hop when i launched, when i grabed 2nd gear, and 3rd.
So i thought replacing my LCA's would fix it. So i bought UMI Poly/Rod LCA's + there Relocation brackets. I had access to a lift. The install went ok, but when there is no load on the rear it seems like it is about an inch toward the driver side. Anyways got them in, didn't tighten them until i loaded the rear.
I also put them in the lower setting on the relocation brackets.
AND I STILL HAVE WHEEL HOP.
HELP ME UMI, OR ANYONE WHO KNOWS WHAT CAN BE WRONG.
11-07-2007, 04:56 PM
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I'm not so sure about that. I have rod/rod LCAs and Bilstiens and still get some wheel hop, although not as bad. I'm thinking it might be time for me to get a TA.
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11-07-2007, 05:36 PM
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The UMI reloc. brackets stopped my wheel hop. I do however have a adj. T/A though, w/o one your pinion angle is not where it is supposed to be. That could be one of the prime contributors to your problem.
I don't buy the shocks theory, I'm still on stock shocks. I have BMR short T/A, UMI adj. PHB, Boxed LCA's, Reloc. brackets, and Eibach pro-kit (1.4in lowered). Do not get wheel hop at all, tires just spin when they do get loose.
I don't buy the shocks theory, I'm still on stock shocks. I have BMR short T/A, UMI adj. PHB, Boxed LCA's, Reloc. brackets, and Eibach pro-kit (1.4in lowered). Do not get wheel hop at all, tires just spin when they do get loose.
11-07-2007, 06:53 PM
#9
Why don't you buy the shocks theory? Compression damping is what control unsprung weight, and the axle, wheels, tires, brakes, swaybar, TA, LCA brackets and all that in the rear is unsprung weight.
The thing is hop can be a lot of things, or a combination of things. You knocked down two thing already. You have springs that don't match the shocks well, and the shocks aren't very good even with stock springs. That could be an issue. The TA might help, might not, really depends on what the root cause it. I've had cars be fixed with TA's, and some that aren't. Some get fixed with LCA stuff, some don't (like yours). Some never have a problem.
The thing is hop can be a lot of things, or a combination of things. You knocked down two thing already. You have springs that don't match the shocks well, and the shocks aren't very good even with stock springs. That could be an issue. The TA might help, might not, really depends on what the root cause it. I've had cars be fixed with TA's, and some that aren't. Some get fixed with LCA stuff, some don't (like yours). Some never have a problem.
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11-07-2007, 07:31 PM
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Why don't you buy the shocks theory? Compression damping is what control unsprung weight, and the axle, wheels, tires, brakes, swaybar, TA, LCA brackets and all that in the rear is unsprung weight.
The thing is hop can be a lot of things, or a combination of things. You knocked down two thing already. You have springs that don't match the shocks well, and the shocks aren't very good even with stock springs. That could be an issue. The TA might help, might not, really depends on what the root cause it. I've had cars be fixed with TA's, and some that aren't. Some get fixed with LCA stuff, some don't (like yours). Some never have a problem.
The thing is hop can be a lot of things, or a combination of things. You knocked down two thing already. You have springs that don't match the shocks well, and the shocks aren't very good even with stock springs. That could be an issue. The TA might help, might not, really depends on what the root cause it. I've had cars be fixed with TA's, and some that aren't. Some get fixed with LCA stuff, some don't (like yours). Some never have a problem.
11-07-2007, 07:43 PM
#12
with the 1" drop BMRs you might get away with some out of the box bilsteins, but the revalves would be a better, but more expensive choice. my vote always goes with the Koni SA 3/4 package Sam offers. Best bang for the buck IMO. you'll never run anything else after you try the SAs.
11-07-2007, 08:51 PM
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hmmm, i really wish i knew what it was. I would hate to keep guessing and spending money on something that might not even be an issue. Would a Pan hard bar help at all?
11-08-2007, 10:36 PM
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Are you using the bottom hole on the relocation brackets. Also are you using the weld in or bolt in? I had severe wheel hop and the UMI weldins stopped it immediately. Like a miracle.
11-08-2007, 10:47 PM
#18
also, don't forget that the tires themselves can contribute to wheel hop....if you are on regular street tires, switching to a drag radial or a slick can help decrease the wheel hop as well.
but definitely replace those shocks. the stock decarbons are **** for stock ride height, and are even worse when the car is lowered.
but definitely replace those shocks. the stock decarbons are **** for stock ride height, and are even worse when the car is lowered.
