Tony 2000

drag radials for sure my 2000ss went from 13.58 at 101 to 12.96 107 with just a set of nittos just just gettem really hot and if ur an m6 drop it at 4500:

68birdls1

iTrader: (46)

Listen to this guy if you want to break your rear end.

For all saftey of the fragile rear, don't launch any higher than 3000 rpm. Even that is risky but this guy above is not afraid and that is fine for him but may not work for you.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Me too at one point in time... I cut smack down low 1.5X 60's on completly stock suspension and just 255's MT DR's.. I have upgraded as I could feel the car twist a little and did not feel safe. But it is very doable.

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

To heck with the rear suspension. Do it last. All you really need is good tires and weight transfer... as in removed front swaybar and shocks up front. Those 3 things will get you to high 1.4 60's easy with enough power.

powerjames

iTrader: (4)

I'm on the torque arm bandwagon. Plus, it's adjustable (or should be) for pinion angle. Second on my list is rear shocks.

Smokinlt1

I'd go with tires first, then lca's and drag bags to help with wheels hop. I'm pretty happy with my 60ft times. Torque arm would probably knock off at leat another tenth or two from what I've read on the boards.

cowboysfan

kinda hard to pick cause they all work together, I would say shocks cause they can/will dampen or eliminate wheel hop. plus ur rear end will want to flex up and qa1 adj. can prevent that with correct setup. tq arm alone well u got wheel hop and axel twist with stock shocks. lca can prevent wheel hop only cause of the polyurathane bushings plus with adj u can set it up to launch straight. tires well need them to.......

Danger731

iTrader: (3)

I'de do a torque arm first. I just ripped my stocker right off the top of the diff 2 days ago.

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

Hummm, where are all of the fast guys cutting 1.3x and lower on this? All but the panhard are important. My car is now pretty consistent cutting 1.42 to 1.45 60 fts. The last thing I added was the BMR anti-roll rear sway. It's mammoth and it works! I have LCA's & relocation's , tq arm and the biggest DR I could wedge under the car. Still rocking the stock shocks and springs.

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Lower control arm relocation brackets FIRST
Poly Mounts to replace the factory rubber.
Then move the Torque arm mount to the trans crossmember.

Done. Its taken me to 9.9XX @ 140+

M-Ten

iTrader: (2)

Yeah no kidding, I never launched mine at over 1800 RPM, and only did it like 4 or 5 times..

I'm putting in a 9 inch tomorrow

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

I noticed the biggest difference with the torque arm and panhard bar

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

It depends. Is your car lowered? If yes then get LCAs & an adj Panhard Bar. Are you having wheel hop issues? If yes then get shocks & springs & a big rear sway bar. How hard do you want to launch. An Adj shorter TA will make a big difference on 60' times.

The SFCs will help a little transferring the power to the tires (instead of losing it in body flex), but until you make serious power all you'll notice is tighter handling (& no wrinkles in the fenders).

The real answer is you need ALL of them if you want the best drag racing times & no broken parts.....

landonew

I think you really need all of them, but i would say that LCAs are probably the most important.

green28

iTrader: (8)

I don't have any wheel hop issues or tire spin issues, but I'm planning on getting LCA's, relocation brackets, and a Panhard bar to start with. Currently just a bolt-on car and have SFC's and the rest is of the suspension is stock. But I'm just going to slowly add some suspension parts so when I do have the power, wheelspin won't be an issue.

Luckymex_dallas

TORQE ARM DEF.

i had welded my stock the crossmember and after 5 eyears of twisting it broke all the welds. so im going to go with the BMR adjustable Arm and the TH#%) relocation crossmember kit.


should lower 2/10ths off my 7.10 1/8 mile time...YAY!!


plus lower arms are next. underdrive pulley ...finnaly can run a 6

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I voted control arms to get rid of wheel hop.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I agree with everyone else that BY FAR a set of drag radials or slicks will do the MOST. I also agree that subframes are a MUST (in my book) as they keep the body stiff to help with consistency (but they fall more under chassis/frame than suspension).

FOR ME, the question of a torque arm and LCAs is not a either/or, it is a BOTH! While I had to vote torque arm (get an adjustable, non-tranny mount version), I WOULD NOT do one without the other as they BOTH are needed to prevent wheel-hop and get consistent power to the ground.

After a torque arm AND LCAs (and again subframes), then I would say panhard rod, then shocks/springs (coilovers), then finally a big sway bar. I know other people see panhard rods as rather useless BUT my argument is to solidify the rearend position under the car (forward/backwards AND laterally) for consistency.

Side note: This all assumes you are going to stick with STOCK RIDE HEIGHT (and/or straight line only)! IF you change the ride height (and/or plan to hit any turns), a panhard rod moves to the TOP of the list. An off center rearend causes problems with tire-to-fender contact and has been known to cause drive shaft failures.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Anytime you post a poll with a question that is so broad-based you are bound to get all kinds of different responses. And I can't say that any one of them is wrong. And we don't know any are right. I assume you posted to figure out what you want to buy first, right?

Try this on for size: It depends. I spend all day, every day educating folks about how parts work and what they do. Unfortunately, most folks don't do this (or maybe fortunately for me...). Individual parts effect the car in certain ways. I certainly can't know what part to recommend until I know what it is about the car's behavior you want to change. Is it wheelhopping or not? Does the traction just suck? Are you are on drag radials or better (assuming no here)? Does the car hook well enough to bog, and wheelhops? I'd do something different there than on a car that wheelhops and completely blows the tires off too.

Horses for courses. Asking what you are asking is akin to telling your doctor you don't feel well--and that's all. There is no way to prescribe something for something that generic, and no responsible person would. Of course you want the car to do ____ better (insert anything, launch, ride, "handle", etc). I don't often find folks asking to make their car worse at anything.

The trick is diagnosing the problem(s) you want to fix.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)