front lower control arm removal
front lower control arm removal well, while i'm waiting for my new upper shock mounts to get here from sam, i'm going to try to knock out replacing the bushings in the front lower control arms.
so......whats the best way to remove them??
right now i have some old bolts holding the upper hat and spindle assy to the chassis.
so whats the best way to get the lower ball joint loose without damaging it???
i tried a search and didn't find anything.
thanks
tony
so......whats the best way to remove them??
right now i have some old bolts holding the upper hat and spindle assy to the chassis.
so whats the best way to get the lower ball joint loose without damaging it???
i tried a search and didn't find anything.
thanks
tony
Remove the nut on the top of the ball joint and spray it with PB Blaster and then wait a few minutes, then gently tap it several times next to where it goes through the arm to help the PB Blaster rpenetrate in. Then use a small punch and hit down on the center of the threaded end and it will pop out. If it doesn't come out after a few smacks put on some more PBB and hit it again. A heavy hammer (16 to 20 oz) or a dead blow hammer will help. Yu will need access to a press to get the bushings out. Before you press them out either take a picture or make good notes of which end id up and how far they are pressed into the lower arm. When I did mine I also had to lossen the rack bolts and drop it as much as possible to be able to get the front horizonal bolt out and before I put it back in I ground a flat spot on the integral washer so thet it cleared the rubber bellows on the tie rod easier. The Helms manual claims you dont have to touch the rack but there was no way to get it out on my 99 without moving it down and out of the way as much a possible.
no, i am going with rubber bushings that i got from sam when i ordered my springs and shocks.
i can't use aftermarket LCA because i race the car and my class doesn't allow that mod (thanks sam for reminding me of this!)
yes, they must be pressed in. a friend of mine has a press, so i'm going to take the bushings and LCAs to his house to press them in.
tony
i can't use aftermarket LCA because i race the car and my class doesn't allow that mod (thanks sam for reminding me of this!)
yes, they must be pressed in. a friend of mine has a press, so i'm going to take the bushings and LCAs to his house to press them in.
tony
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Try supporting the lower control arm with a jack so that it cannot move and less the force of the blow from the hammer. How many miles on your car. If it is real rusty you may try heating the area with a propane torch and then quenching it with wate. the expansion and contraction may help to bust loose the rust. Otherwise go to Autozone and rent a puller for the ball joint or you may be able rig one up from a big c clamp.
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Hey everyone,
I have everything undone, but can't get the rear bolt (vertical bolt) out. The nut is off, but it is not budging AT ALL... any words of advice on this bolt? I can't even see the head of the bolt through the sub frame. I tried hitting it with a hammer, using a hydraulic jack on it, and still it won't budge a bit.
Thanks for any help!
-Raj
I have everything undone, but can't get the rear bolt (vertical bolt) out. The nut is off, but it is not budging AT ALL... any words of advice on this bolt? I can't even see the head of the bolt through the sub frame. I tried hitting it with a hammer, using a hydraulic jack on it, and still it won't budge a bit.
Thanks for any help!
-Raj
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Park Texas
A few weekends ago I did the exact same thing you are doing but my rear control arm bolts came out pretty easy. I have to move the control arm with my hand and kind of walk it out. The tang on the top of the bolt may be jammed in to its hole or something. Once the nut is off you should be able to push up on it and then reach above, spin it around so the tang clears the body work. Take a pic for us if you can.
Hey everyone,
I have everything undone, but can't get the rear bolt (vertical bolt) out. The nut is off, but it is not budging AT ALL... any words of advice on this bolt? I can't even see the head of the bolt through the sub frame. I tried hitting it with a hammer, using a hydraulic jack on it, and still it won't budge a bit.
Thanks for any help!
-Raj
I have everything undone, but can't get the rear bolt (vertical bolt) out. The nut is off, but it is not budging AT ALL... any words of advice on this bolt? I can't even see the head of the bolt through the sub frame. I tried hitting it with a hammer, using a hydraulic jack on it, and still it won't budge a bit.
Thanks for any help!
-Raj
If you run your hand up between the starte and frame rail, the bolt head located right on top of the frame rail.
Thanks for the quick reply mitchntx.
The bolt was seized to the metal sleeve of the bushing.... i'll have to either torch it or get a massive sawzall blade and go to town. I started working on the other stuff i had to do (end links, rear sway bar and tune up)
The bolt was seized to the metal sleeve of the bushing.... i'll have to either torch it or get a massive sawzall blade and go to town. I started working on the other stuff i had to do (end links, rear sway bar and tune up)
installed ES polys in my lower arms.....removal was a PITA but not impossible.....burnt the stock rubbers out with a propane torch.....DID NOT use that special grease that comes with the polys.......used mobil syn grease......MUCH better......install polyed arms..........take to aligment shop.....pimps boys charged me for a aligment but COULD not get it in spec.......ended up taking to dealer.........nothing like paying for a alingment twice 
