View Poll Results: Do you have an aftermarket T/A on your lowered car?
Yes, because...
10
66.67%
No, because...
5
33.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Torque Arm and Lowering
01-29-2008, 03:07 AM
#1
Torque Arm and Lowering Ok, so for those of you with lowered F bodies, who has an aftermarket T/A along with their lowered suspension.
I hear that it is almost a must, yet never here it mentioned when people lower their rides.
So the poll is just to see how many have gotten aftermarket T/As when they lowered vs those who have not.
You can explain further for your reasoning so we/I can get more info out of this
I hear that it is almost a must, yet never here it mentioned when people lower their rides.
So the poll is just to see how many have gotten aftermarket T/As when they lowered vs those who have not.
You can explain further for your reasoning so we/I can get more info out of this
01-29-2008, 12:41 PM
#4
Lowered, with an adjustable TA (UMI full length) due to wanting to make sure the driveline angle was set correctly. Never measured it before, and have it set about -1* now.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
01-29-2008, 06:29 PM
#6
Lowered, with an adjustable TA (UMI full length) due to wanting to make sure the driveline angle was set correctly. Never measured it before, and have it set about -1* now.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
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01-30-2008, 09:57 AM
#8
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Lowered, with an adjustable TA (UMI full length) due to wanting to make sure the driveline angle was set correctly. Never measured it before, and have it set about -1* now.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
After installing my Strange 12-bolt, it was really a must...the previous settings that I used on my 10-bolt didn't even come close to bringing the angles in line. They were a good 6-7* off.
-Mike
01-30-2008, 11:31 AM
#9
An adjustable TA is not in any way required to lower a car. I do it all the time with stock TA's. Sure, if you slam the car to the deck you might have some trouble, but my springs don't do that. If you change your rear axle you might have some trouble, but seems you are staying with what you have.
I have never heard that anyone thinks an adjustable TA is a must when lowering, I certainly don't agree. I think an adjustable PHB pretty much is, but not a torque arm.
I ran my car for month with a stock TA. The only reason I changed was because the stock one was making for brake-hop problems, and a more rigid unit doesn't store energy like a stock one that's more flimsy and winds up.
I have never heard that anyone thinks an adjustable TA is a must when lowering, I certainly don't agree. I think an adjustable PHB pretty much is, but not a torque arm.
I ran my car for month with a stock TA. The only reason I changed was because the stock one was making for brake-hop problems, and a more rigid unit doesn't store energy like a stock one that's more flimsy and winds up.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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01-30-2008, 11:34 AM
#10
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I have a Spohn adj. TA and there is no way in hell I'd lower my car... It's at stock ride height now and most of the time I come to a speed bump it smacks it... So if I lowered it then I'd probably tear **** up..
Not to hijack the thread or get too off topic, but you guys with the 12 bolts, what made you go that route instead of 9" and are you happy with moser or whoever you used? Noisey?
Not to hijack the thread or get too off topic, but you guys with the 12 bolts, what made you go that route instead of 9" and are you happy with moser or whoever you used? Noisey?
01-30-2008, 12:06 PM
#11
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No need for an aftermarket TA unless wheel hop is an issue for you. With sticky tires you can get more axle wind-up and thus more wheel hop. I'm talking DOT and drag race tires and the best street tires only.
01-31-2008, 11:05 PM
#12
I get wheel hop on turns on wet pavement even... It's bad.
I however plan to get some Koni 4/4's Strano springs etc etc.
I guess I should wait and see if I still have it after my suspension mods. Then if I still do I guess its T/A time.
I however plan to get some Koni 4/4's Strano springs etc etc.
I guess I should wait and see if I still have it after my suspension mods. Then if I still do I guess its T/A time.
01-31-2008, 11:49 PM
#13
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You could also take the stockers and box them in if you're looking to save cash..
02-01-2008, 08:28 AM
#14
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Look at LCA Relocation brackets as well. Helped me a lot, but I have the Eibach Pro Kit, which is lower than Strano. I got the bolt in ones and also welded them in.
02-01-2008, 10:37 AM
#15
Let's not get the cart in front of the horse. First the car can hop for many reasons. Tires, LCA windup, TA, shocks, etc, etc. (including shocks).
I suggest we work the shocks/springs in and don't do anything else until you can see what the result it. Might well be that your wheelhop stops, or changes. Or maybe not, but then we'll know and we can pick the next part to try and combat what you are getting for hop. I generally start with LCA's. but only certain types and not the cheap ones because while they can kill hop they also bind the axle up in roll a bit which I don't want.
I suggest we work the shocks/springs in and don't do anything else until you can see what the result it. Might well be that your wheelhop stops, or changes. Or maybe not, but then we'll know and we can pick the next part to try and combat what you are getting for hop. I generally start with LCA's. but only certain types and not the cheap ones because while they can kill hop they also bind the axle up in roll a bit which I don't want.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
02-01-2008, 11:48 AM
#16
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Let's not get the cart in front of the horse. First the car can hop for many reasons. Tires, LCA windup, TA, shocks, etc, etc. (including shocks).
I suggest we work the shocks/springs in and don't do anything else until you can see what the result it. Might well be that your wheelhop stops, or changes. Or maybe not, but then we'll know and we can pick the next part to try and combat what you are getting for hop. I generally start with LCA's. but only certain types and not the cheap ones because while they can kill hop they also bind the axle up in roll a bit which I don't want.
I suggest we work the shocks/springs in and don't do anything else until you can see what the result it. Might well be that your wheelhop stops, or changes. Or maybe not, but then we'll know and we can pick the next part to try and combat what you are getting for hop. I generally start with LCA's. but only certain types and not the cheap ones because while they can kill hop they also bind the axle up in roll a bit which I don't want.
Lakewood LCA's, Spohn SFC's, Spohn adj TA... Might work for you or might not..
02-01-2008, 12:33 PM
#17
I wasn't addressing anyone in particular, only that it's best to be wise about what parts when and that at this point considering a shocks and spring change seems to be coming, I'd recommend waiting on the other things.
I also didn't disagree that cheap (read boxed or tubular LCA's with poly) don't help wheelhop, or that your car doesn't wheelhop. I'm looking at more than just wheelhop, these are suspension parts that do more than just deal with that. Do they help hop? Sure they do. Doesn't mean other things won't and do it without the loss of free articulation from the rear axle.
I also didn't disagree that cheap (read boxed or tubular LCA's with poly) don't help wheelhop, or that your car doesn't wheelhop. I'm looking at more than just wheelhop, these are suspension parts that do more than just deal with that. Do they help hop? Sure they do. Doesn't mean other things won't and do it without the loss of free articulation from the rear axle.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Just look at his sig for examples of why! Got his springs and Koni 4/4's and love'em!
02-01-2008, 06:29 PM
#19
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Oh yeah and I voted No, just because I didnt feel its necessary for what I do with the car- nor do I have any more money to pour into it and this time, but tax return is coming.
02-02-2008, 12:30 PM
#20
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I wasn't addressing anyone in particular, only that it's best to be wise about what parts when and that at this point considering a shocks and spring change seems to be coming, I'd recommend waiting on the other things.
I also didn't disagree that cheap (read boxed or tubular LCA's with poly) don't help wheelhop, or that your car doesn't wheelhop. I'm looking at more than just wheelhop, these are suspension parts that do more than just deal with that. Do they help hop? Sure they do. Doesn't mean other things won't and do it without the loss of free articulation from the rear axle.
I also didn't disagree that cheap (read boxed or tubular LCA's with poly) don't help wheelhop, or that your car doesn't wheelhop. I'm looking at more than just wheelhop, these are suspension parts that do more than just deal with that. Do they help hop? Sure they do. Doesn't mean other things won't and do it without the loss of free articulation from the rear axle.
